NordicSaab
NordicSaab HalfDork
5/21/18 8:26 a.m.

 

As many of you probably saw, my Miata got hit pretty hard and will most likely be totaled and parted out. Link: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/thank-you-hard-dog-and-bethania-garage/139251/page1/#post2518793 . I'll post a part out thread when and if that happens, but in the mean time I am focusing on my next toy.  

A while back I purchased an 1997 e36 M3 Sedan with a blown head gasket.  The PO did not have the funds to fix it and I picked it up at a very reasonable price.  It has sat for the past 7 months while my mechanic worked on other projects.  I specifically told him to make it last priority because I really had no use for it at the time.  Well, the time has come.  

So, now that I am working on an e36 M3 sedan, what should I be updating/repairing/maintaining?  The cars intended use will be spirited pleasure driving, track, and autocross.  The car has a plethora of upgrades already, but I will need to dig in and really evaluate what they are.   

I'm looking for collective feedback from owners and PO of these cars.  What should be on my checklist for reliability, handling, and performance? 

Obligatory pictures: 

   

... And before you ask what I paid, just know I got a good deal wink

jfryjfry
jfryjfry HalfDork
5/21/18 9:02 a.m.

Rear trailing arm bushings.  Make sure you properly measure installation angles of both the rear sway bar and the control arms.  

Get rtab limiters too.  There are inexpensive ones for about $25 iirc

check or replace radiator, fan, thermostat and housing. 

Turbine
Turbine GRM+ Memberand New Reader
5/21/18 9:07 a.m.

The cooling system is a major item, but you’ll probably be taking care of that along with the head gasket. I’d also check the FCABs and RTABs. Also, ditch the stock trans mounts if you’re gonna track it. They’re awful. I’d recommend e21 mounts or Rogue Engineering neoprene mounts if you’re looking to firm things up without a huge increase in NVH. 

I bought my coupe last year and I absolutely love it. These cars are so much more than the sum of their parts. 

docwyte
docwyte SuperDork
5/21/18 9:43 a.m.

Radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing, fan clutch, fan, radiator overflow bottle.  New belts.  Check ball joints and front control arm bushings, rear toe bushings, rear upper shock mounts, use the E21 tranny mounts with the AKG Motorsports metal cups for them.  Replace the motor mounts with the Bimmerworld Group N knock offs.

 

buzzboy
buzzboy Reader
5/21/18 12:40 p.m.

Other's have said cooling system, I'll say it again. Get a new radiator and a new water pump.

Unrelated to performance, but e36 window regulators suck. If yours are still stock you're likely on borrowed time. The grease BMW used in the factory has turned to chalky glue on most of them by now.

Also check the rear shock mounts. Another common failure point that the aftermarket has addressed.

CyberEric
CyberEric HalfDork
5/21/18 1:12 p.m.

What suspension is on the car? There are some aftermarket setups for these cars that pretty far from great. 

In the 5 years I owned mine I had issues with:

-Window regulator breaking (literally snapped the metal)

-Multiple ignition coils dying

-PS line blowing off

-Line from Master to slave cyl blowing up

-Rear shock mounts

-Starter dying

 

adam525i
adam525i GRM+ Memberand Reader
5/21/18 1:44 p.m.

Replacing the tail lights would be top of my list :)

Good looking car otherwise.

Adam

pimpm3
pimpm3 SuperDork
5/21/18 2:58 p.m.

Replace the Guibo. 

Do your seats recline.  I had to replace the gears in both of mine. 

Run a square setup tire wise I have 245/40/17's on all four corners

Harvey
Harvey GRM+ Memberand Dork
5/21/18 3:16 p.m.

Twin screw supercharger.

M2Pilot
M2Pilot Dork
5/21/18 6:16 p.m.
pimpm3 said:

Replace the Guibo. 

Do your seats recline.  I had to replace the gears in both of mine. 

Run a square setup tire wise I have 245/40/17's on all four corners

If you have to replace the seat recliner gears, be sure you re-install them in exactly the original position. If you don't, seat adjustments will work but not for full range of adjustment. Ask me how I know.

NordicSaab
NordicSaab HalfDork
5/21/18 7:25 p.m.

So, this is what I got: 

Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (OEM?)

Control Arm Bushings (OEM?)

Rear Trailer Arm Bushing Limiters

Radiator (OEM? Are the Ebay ones any good?) 

Fan Thermostat

Thermostat Housing 

Transmission Mounts (BW Group N Aftermarket)

Radiator Hoses

Fan

Fan Clutch

Radiator Overflow Bottle

Belts

Check Ball Joints

Check Shock Mounts

Water Pump 

Window Regulators Suck

Buy Spare Ignition Coil

Tail Lights (Agree, I hate the LED ones on the car.  PO said they kept blowing bulbs; any truth to that?)

Guibo

Twin Screw (YAAASSSSSssss)

Seat Recliner Gears

 

Realistically, what should I do immediately vs what can wait a bit longer?

buzzboy
buzzboy Reader
5/21/18 7:55 p.m.

Twin Screw first

Cooling system second

But really, cooling system is will keep you on the road. I'd do it absolutely first.

Stanger2000
Stanger2000 New Reader
5/22/18 11:38 a.m.

Had a '98 (RIP).  Everyone pretty much covered it all and I had replaced most of aforementioned parts on mine.  The car did have a VFE Stage 1 centri SC kit which dyno'd at 275rwhp (5.5psi).   Made the car lots of fun, but too much fun to stay out of trouble and I pulled the kit off and put it back to stock and used said funds towards add'l maintenance wear items.   Funny about the window regulators, I had the driver's door fail on me, the window almost crashed down inside the door.  This happened in the dead of winter also...beware. 

Not sure how popular it still is but I replaced the FCA's along with the bushings and used stock replacement bushings specifically for the the '95 M3 which are offset and solid, slightly moves the wheels fwd if I remember.  Can't say felt a difference but I never tracked mine either. 

CyberEric
CyberEric HalfDork
5/22/18 11:59 a.m.

When you do the RTABs, I recommend stock rubber with delrin (I think) limiters. I can't remember who sells them, might have been UUC or Turner, but it made a world of difference in tightening up the rear. I could feel the rear move around on a 1-2 shift before. After, tight at a drum. 

I second ditching those rear lights too. And I hate to prejudiced, but the person who puts those lights (and white gauges) on an E36 typically doesn't put a great suspension on either. I'd take a look and if it's garbage, I'd address that after the cooling system. 

JBasham
JBasham HalfDork
5/22/18 3:31 p.m.

Cooling system first, unless you want to risk doing the head gasket job twice.

Stock radiators are okay as long as you keep ahead of them, putting in a new one before the plastic end tanks and connections get brittle.  The stock fan is usually enough with the stock radiator to keep these cars cool on track, but not always.  The stock fans seem to be a bit random.  I spend Friday night until midnight two weeks ago holding a light so Tommy could change the fan and radiator on his E36 M3 track car, after his new-ish stock fan grenaded into the radiator Friday afternoon on track.  I would dump the stock fan and switch to electric with a Mishimoto radiator, just to stamp paid to the whole concern.

Engine bay fuel lines -- they are long and high pressure and rubber and old.  I am afraid of car fires, based on a friend's awful luck.  I am also suspicious of fuel filters on old cars and I tend to replace them unless I know the previous owner was anal.

Some people say the oil pump retaining nut should be pinned or welded.  I wouldn't remove the oil pan just for that job because it's pretty hard, unless the motor is out.  If the motor is out, I would do it and replace the oil pan gasket.

If you are running stock dampers and springs, you can probably put off all the rear bushings until you get something with less wobble and roll.  Don't forget rear trailing arm pocket reinforcement plates, which need to be welded on.  Don't forget rear subframe bushings.  For the rear subframe bushings and the rear trailing arm bushings, I personally believe OEM is not stiff enough for precise handling at 1.0G, and these cars are easily capable of 1.2G.  Ish.   For rear control arm bushings, I now use these, and only these exactly, they are the most durable I have found with the best design:  AC Delco RCAB.  If you use urethane RTABs, you don't need (or want) the RTAB limiter discs.

Some people have managed to break the mounting bolt on the front/nose end of the differential.  This may be related to use of OEM differential mounts at all three positions.  In my case, I put it pretty far down the list of things to worry about.

Guibo and center support bearing -- inspect but no need to replace unless they look or sound sketchy.  But I carried spares because the first sign of flaky-ness will manifest on the first day of a track weekend.

Front control arms, lolipop/bushings, and tie rod ends.  My car had pretty stable steering, so I STILL haven't done these, even though I have the parts on hand.  I suggest you swap the front damper mounts (right side to left side and vice versa).  It will give a nice amount of negative camber, which these cars need.

The Track/Autocross forum on Bimmerforums is a wealth of experience with pretty much any part or combination you can imagine.  Usually I get info from actual experience not just with the specific parts, but how they performed on my specific tracks.  

buzzboy
buzzboy Reader
5/22/18 7:33 p.m.
JBasham said:I would dump the stock fan and switch to electric with a Mishimoto radiator, just to stamp paid to the whole concern.

Seconded. I did the Mishi with a Spal slimline and I couldn't be happier. The first Mishi cracked but they replaced it quickly and I was back on the road. My temps stay solid at 202° even on 90-100° days.

NordicSaab
NordicSaab HalfDork
5/23/18 5:43 a.m.

 

Thank you everyone for the feedback.  

RE: the tail lights, I dislike them as well. PO said the stock ones kept blowing bulbs. Is that a known issue? Also, do tail lights from a plain 325 swap? are the M one different? 

docwyte
docwyte SuperDork
5/23/18 8:44 a.m.

A stock MZ3 S54 radiator works just fine.  Replace it every 70k miles or so.  It also has the mounting tabs for an oil cooler.  If you want to go all aluminum, the CSF radiator is a good choice and not too much money.

Replace your motor mounts and you won't have any clutch driven fan issues.  You can swap out to an electric fan, (Bimmerworld sells a nice kit using the Spal fan) but its not as effective as the clutch fan and wiring it up is sorta a pain.  You have to decide if you want the front pusher fan to come on at low threshold, high threshold, etc, etc.  Look at my build thread here of my M3 and you'll see what I did with it.

If he was blowing stock bulbs there was a break somewhere in the tail light grid.  Look closely for a burn spot.  Sedan tail lights are different from coupe/convertible ones, but otherwise any sedan tail light fits.

mad_machine
mad_machine GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/23/18 9:42 a.m.

the euro airbag wheel is tasty.

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