The answer for everything is....

Miata!

It was a bit shy, but i managed to coax it out of the garage finally:

Picked it up for $2500 last night. Seller was the second owner, had it since '93. It's got a sad 6 year old maaco paintjob, it's only ever been bumped in a parking lot. New softtop with a glass window, obviously the hardtop, shifts good, drives straight. With the electrical issues i've had thus far (just a bad battery), it's been like owning a LBC. It's got a bad window regulator on the driver's side, i'm looking for a replacement. Best to go to mazda or get one used?

Stuff i need info on:

1 - Temp gauge doesn't work. Seller said it started after they reassembled the motor. They replaced the sender, no change. What should i check next? 2 - Shop manuals - Which ones are actually helpful?

Driving impressions - I've been racing for 8 years now, and all i understand is FWD, this car does stuff that seems unnatural to me! I love it!

Get Keith Tanner's "Mazda Miata Performance Projects". It's not a shop manual, but what it lacks in breadth of obscure projects, it makes up for in depth and clarity for the most common tasks.

Seconded on Keith's book. I also have found the Haynes somewhat useful, at least worth its low price. I haven't come across a factory manual for cheap yet.

Thanks guys, i'll be sure to check that out. Any other advice is appreciated!

I have a Haynes. It gives you all the torque specs you'll need and it is pretty good at doing most jobs. The only one I felt was a little retarded was the soft top replacement.

"Remove screws on front support bar. Drill out rivets. Remove rear carpet. Remove rain rail."

"Installation is the opposite of removal."

Yeah. There are a FEW more steps involved in the damn process. Ask me how I know.

INSTALLATION IS NOT THE OPPOSITE OF REMOVAL, DAMN IT!!!!1!!!!1oneone!!111

sure it is, just un-drill out those rivets

Yeah, i've come to expect that from haynes.

Tips: short wheelbase and Right Wheel Drive tend to lead to some tail-happieness at high speeds. Just be careful - it's easy to recover from and your intuition will probably work just fine, but you should be careful in the rain when taking corners with fervor.

Hawk HPS pads on stock rotors FTW!!

You don't need a hard top . . . give it to me. I'll even let you pay me to take it off your hands.

Falken Azenis tires can be had for like $70.00 a pop (shipped!). Get some and get rid of whatever you got on there.

Make sure you address the crankshaft nose bolt issue if Mazda didn't by 1993. I believe that the bolt was too short and had a tendency to, well, fall out yielding negative results.

Have fun!

confuZion3 wrote: You don't need a hard top . . . give it to me. I'll even let you pay me to take it off your hands.

confuZion3 wrote: Falken Azenis tires can be had for like $70.00 a pop (shipped!). Get some and get rid of whatever you got on there.

I have a almost new set already mounted on NX2000 wheels.

confuZion3 wrote: Make sure you address the crankshaft nose bolt issue if Mazda didn't by 1993. I believe that the bolt was too short and had a tendency to, well, fall out yielding negative results.

I figure after almost 200k, it's probably fine. Should something bad happen, 1.8s are cheap.

"Seller said it started after they REASSEMBLED THE MOTOR" - When and why was the motor apart?? Other than that looks good to me. Temp gauge should be pretty simple to figure out - check the sensor, check continuity on the wires to/from sensor. My guess is if they had the motor apart a wire got pinched.

Widow regulator - used FTW.

I liked Hawk HP+ pads on my '96, never tried the HPS though and the HP+ did talk to me a lot, especially cold. The HP+ pads worked very well though once a little heat got into them.

Scott

Ooh - another thing i just thought of. Is there a factory seat that puts your butt lower in the car? I'm a tall bastard and want to pass the broomstick test.

pigeon wrote: " When and why was the motor apart??

They decided to refresh the head, valve job, new headgasket, valve seals, etc.

MCarp22 wrote: Ooh - another thing i just thought of. Is there a factory seat that puts your butt lower in the car? I'm a tall bastard and want to pass the broomstick test.

One with 2-3 inches of foam cut out of the middle panel. Bonus is you also get side bolsters when you do this! Electric turkey knives CAN have a use on days other than the fourth thursday in November.

Yup. Google "foamectomy" and I'm sure you'll get detailed instructions.

MCarp22 wrote: The answer for everything is.... Miata!

No it isn't, it's "more boost."

J

Go to www.miata.net and search for foamectomy; you'll find threads detailing how to modify your stock seat to drop you a couple inches lower and to provide some decent bolsters. The crankshaft issue was resolved by mid 1991 so your 93 is completely safe. The book you want to buy, other than Keith's is "Rod's Mazda Miata 1.6 Liter Enthusiast's Shop Manual." Find it on Amazon or whatever. That book is glorious and has helped me out more times than I can remember. Much better than Haynes.

Edit: Looks like Mr. Baxter beat me to it.

Thanks for the tip on the foamectomy, i do like the seat as it is, so maybe i'll have to get another one as a trackday seat.

thatsnowinnebago wrote: The crankshaft issue was resolved by mid 1991 so your 93 is completely safe.

Mine's a '90!

MCarp22 wrote: Thanks for the tip on the foamectomy, i do like the seat as it is, so maybe i'll have to get another one as a trackday seat.

thatsnowinnebago wrote: The crankshaft issue was resolved by mid 1991 so your 93 is completely safe.

Mine's a '90!

oh whoops, you're SOL then

also, if you're anywhere near the Ventura area I'll gladly let you sit in my car with my foamectomy passenger seat and sparco speed driver's side so you see if you like it better or not.

It's only about a 30 hour drive. Thanks for the offer though! ;)

The best price for factory manuals is usually found at Trussville Mazda. They're about $100 new. I've purchased them for $30 or so used. Rod's book is pretty good, although becoming very difficult or expensive to find new. Not a Haynes fan myself.

About the temperature gauge. A 1.6 Miata has three temperature sensors. One on the thermostat neck for the fan. One on the back of the head(two wires) for the ECU. And another on the back of the head (one wire) for the dash gauge. It's really easy to miss that gauge sensor when you're reassembling the head. It's a simple spade connector, and it's underneath the coolant outlet on the back of the head.

I have nothing constructive to add, but I do like that first picture of the car peeking out of the garage.

Huh, Miatas are RWD?

No wonder why they are always the answer.

Jay wrote:

MCarp22 wrote: The answer for everything is.... Miata!

No it isn't, it's "more boost." J

Unless the question is "how do I make my engine last a long time"

Keith wrote: About the temperature gauge. A 1.6 Miata has three temperature sensors. One on the thermostat neck for the fan. One on the back of the head(two wires) for the ECU. And another on the back of the head (one wire) for the dash gauge. It's really easy to miss that gauge sensor when you're reassembling the head. It's a simple spade connector, and it's underneath the coolant outlet on the back of the head.

Brilliant. Once i figure out this lucas-electric style charging system calamity i'll be sure to look for that.

makes a wishlist of FM stuff ;)

MCarp22 wrote: It's only about a 30 hour drive. Thanks for the offer though! ;)

ROADTRIP!!