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FYI, the long nose 1.6 has the exact same crank nose as the 1.8 cars. And you can use a 1.8 CAS on one. So those are not two good reasons to avoid the smaller engine.
As for hardtops - when we get one in FM salvage, there's always a lot of demand for it. $800 is a reasonable expectation for one that's not hammered. And most aren't.
Really? The 1.8 has the same issues? 
V8 Miatas only for now on for me then, thanks.
Javelin wrote:Really? The 1.8 has the same issues?
V8 Miatas only for now on for me then, thanks.
Thought the issue was with short nose 1.6 crank?
Really early 1.8s had the same problems, but they weren't in Miatas at that point.
<--- currently replacing the motor in his 95 miata due to crank nose woodriff keyway failure
It happens when someone messes up a timing belt job. a PO of my motor did, so the keyway failed.
Javelin wrote:Really? The 1.8 has the same issues?
V8 Miatas only for now on for me then, thanks.
No, I'm saying that 1) only the short-nose 1.6 will take damage quite as rapidly if the crank bolt is allowed to back off and 2) the 1.8 CAS is mechanically and electrically interchangeable with the 1.6 unit, although one is optical and one is magnetic.
I don't think any engine deals well with a crank bolt that's not torqued properly, and it's my opinion that this is the cause of most of the crank nose failures.
Since the canoe gave me a free bump, I ended up finding a 1994 M Edition with 78K miles, a little rust (but definitely salvageable) and no apparent major mechanical issues for $2300. Patience is key, I guess . . .
Newb question but how can you tell if it is a OEM hardtop? Is there something that is a dead giveaway?
