So lets say you torque a castle nut... like the one that connects the tie rod end to your hub. When you have torqued it down to specifications, what do you do if the cotter pin hole isn't lined up with the castle pins?
I had this issue earlier today. I torqued it down to 29 ftlbs, and it wasn't lined up. I tightened it to the point of lining up, 65 ftlbs. I loosened it to the point of lining up,13 ftlbs
I ended up opting for the tighter one.
What would you guys do in this situation?
Don't check the torque next time? 
You shouldn't loosen it.
I agree with ansonvan.
Torque to minimum, tighten till pin hole lines up.
torque to spec. remove nut place shim washer under nut retorque...most just do as you did tighten till you can put the pin in.
44
44Dwarf wrote:torque to spec. remove nut place shim washer under nut retorque...most just do as you did tighten till you can put the pin in.
44
Make sure the shim is hardened or it can distort or crush and lessen your torque. If it is on something like tie rod ends or ball joints where you have two or more of the same move the nuts around until you are satisfied with the torque and pin alignment. Tightening beyond torque spec can compromise the threads in the nut or on the stud or bolt and weaken them.
Can I just say that castle nuts with torque specifications are evil? What a bad idea!
Can I just say that while practically everything has a torque spec, some things need torqued and some don't. A tie rod does not. tighten it sufficiently and stick the pin in. Done.
I think of it as a minimum torque spec.
Ex: Barrel nut on an AR. You torque it to 35ft-lbs, then tighten til the gas key lines up.
Welp, the torque to minimum spec then tighten to align thing is what they have us do to the A320... If its good enough for aircraft tires... 
The castellated nut on my Mini's front hubs have a torque spec of 150 ft-lb. Everytime I have to turn one to line up with the holes it makes me nervous, but torque to 150 ft-lb then tighten to line up is the procedure all the same.
