Parked my car too close to some pine trees, I think. I have eleventy-zillion little aerosol sized dots of Gorilla Glue all over my car. Tar and bug cleaner won't touch it. Soap won't touch it. Swirl remover/wax won't touch it. Seems like last time I had this I had to use rubbing compound - UGH!
Does anyone have any solutions that won't kill the clear coat?
A clay bar kit should get it out. I remember a former thread where the grassroots solution is synthetic modeling clay and a liquid soap/water solution as lubricant rather than buying the expensive kits.
I used to use WD-40 or, if that wasn't strong enough, gasoline. Try it in a small out-of-the-way spot first. Your results may vary. 
Acetone will work without hurting the clear. put it on the rag...
I've used McGuire's Cleaner Wax for tree sap with good results (although it wasn't pine sap). Good luck. :)
EvanB wrote:A clay bar kit should get it out. I remember a former thread where the grassroots solution is synthetic modeling clay and a liquid soap/water solution as lubricant rather than buying the expensive kits.
The GRM method will do it. But a regular clay bar and some detailer spray from any of the big companies (Meguiars, Mothers, etc) will be faster.
I have a pad that has a pocket to hold the clay and an outer section to wet down with detailer that I got from Griots that I use on my orbital buffer. Gets rid of tree sap very quickly with no paint problems.
Denatured/rubbing alcohol. Gently wipe off (don't scrub it in) should throw a coat of wax on after, though. Doesn't kill clear coat, just strips whatever wax you had on there.
Hal wrote:EvanB wrote:A clay bar kit should get it out. I remember a former thread where the grassroots solution is synthetic modeling clay and a liquid soap/water solution as lubricant rather than buying the expensive kits.
The GRM method will do it. But a regular clay bar and some detailer spray from any of the big companies (Meguiars, Mothers, etc) will be faster.
I have a pad that has a pocket to hold the clay and an outer section to wet down with detailer that I got from Griots that I use on my orbital buffer. Gets rid of tree sap very quickly with no paint problems.
GRM method is the same as the regular clay method that costs mega bucks and only gives you a tiny piece of clay. Now your orbital buffer method would beat any of the hand versions.
SVTF wrote:Does anyone have any solutions?
Cut down the trees...oh wait!
Datsun1500 wrote:Acetone will work without hurting the clear. put it on the rag...
X2, just used this to remove super glue from a laminate counter top w/o damaging anything, I've also used it on my old cadillac to remove pine pitch as well as on the vinyl top, all without damaging or discoloring anything. It will take multiple applications, work slowly, rub gently, but it will dissovle...
I just tried Invisible Glass and it worked on my oak sap.
If you get it soon enough, warm water and a towel will do it. You have to get it off before it bakes on.
+1 on the Acetone
Its my 'go to' stripper/cleaner/degreaser/remover/etc'er...
EvanB wrote:A clay bar kit should get it out. I remember a former thread where the grassroots solution is synthetic modeling clay and a liquid soap/water solution as lubricant rather than buying the expensive kits.
There's plenty of "modeling clay" at the art store but I don't see anything that specifically says synthetic. The art store has the oil-based modeling clay:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-modeling-clay/
Will this work?
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/ever-use-a-clay-bar/1646/page1/
Here is the thread that I got that idea from, it goes a little more in depth.
I think this is more what you want:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/staedtler-fimo-classic-polymer-clay/
Okay, here is real data on pine sap:
Acetone: works, but scrubbing and multiple applications req'd.
Clay (GRM style): barely works, takes for ever
DNA (denatured Alcohol) - by far the fastest/easiest to remove the sap.
In my mind anyway, I worry less about DNA ruining the clear coat than acetone. Acetone is some serious butt-kickin' solvent.....use with care.
I don't think any of these harmed the clear coat, that I can tell this soon.
Thanks for the help !!!!
I have good luck with Goo Gone. Takes a little bit of rubbing, but it works, and doesn't damage paint. I also don't mind getting it on my skin like I would with Acetone or other harsh chemicals.
Best solution: Deep Woods OFF. Dissolves it immediately, leaves no residue, and won't damage your paint (wipe down with a damp cloth afterward just to be sure :)). It even works on old, dried sap, after you let it soak in. Truly amazing.
