The fun things that happen when you're the second owner of parts.
I need to order a new yoke for my Ford 9" rear, because the one I ordered is too short. In addition, I ordered a yoke for a 1310 U-Joint because the previous owner of my driveshaft (whom I trust with the info) told me I had a 1310.
When I got the rear installed along with the trans, I was an inch short. Not a problem, maybe, as the manufacturer makes short/long yokes. I have enough room to slide the driveshaft back to test U-joint fit (not that I would run like this) and the U-joint (which we are assuming is a 1310) doesn't quite fit in the 1310 yoke. The cap appears to be just a hair too wide to fully seat, and the U-joint is almost as wide as the yoke, but not quite.
When I measure the U-joint, I get the following:
Cap: 1 1/16"
Width: 3 5/8"
When I compare that info to a sizing chart, I get confused (http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML%20Measure/UJ%20ID%20Guide.html).
According to that chart, my cap indicates that it could be a 1310 or 1330, but the width is a little wider than a 1330 or 1350.
So it's starting to feel like I have a 1330. Thoughts?
Big shout out to Mike at Quick Performance. I sent him a link to this thread, and this was his response. Customer service like this gives me the warm and fuzzies. Way to make make a life-long customer.
Paul-
I briefly looked at your u joint dimensions and it appears you have a "small cap" / (wide) 1330 series u joint.
The yoke you have accepts a (narrow) 1310 u joint with a 1-1/6" (small) cap
Here is a summary of the u joint dimensions that common 9" yokes will accept:
1310 (narrow) = 3-1/4" x 1-1/16"
1330 (wide) = 3-5/8" x 1-1/8"
There is such a thing as a big cap (1-1/8") 1310 and a small cap (1-1/16") 1330.
You sometimes see this scenario when mixing and matching drivelines and rear ends from various manufacturers (Ford rear end in Chevy car, etc....)
At this point, you can make this work out in one of a couple different ways.
-Measure the driveshaft side of the existing u joint and obtain a new u-joint that matches the driveshaft on one end and has a small cap 1310 setup on the rear end side. This would keep you from having to swap yokes
-Obtain a 1330 yoke, swap it onto your 3rd member, then either swap the caps on your existing u joint for the 1-1/8" variety or obtain a new u joint with the large caps to fit the new yoke.
Either way, you are not going to easily get a 9" yoke to fit a small cap 1330 u joint. Those yokes exist but they are about 40-50+ years old, factory original and quite rare. Finding one is the first step, finding one that is not damaged, twisted or broken is the big hurdle.
To further complicate things, 9" yokes are available in "long" and "short" varieties. Short yokes are most common by far. If you have am awkward situation where your driveshaft is 1" too short, a long yoke will usually solve the issue vs making a new driveshaft.
This can be confusing and rather frustrating but it is what you are up against.
I have a gauge for this crap, i wonder if i scan it you could print it and laminate it. Very handy
Ford. Ujoint selection. Cursing. They seem to have no problem with mixing and matching transmissions and differentials to create a horrible mess of combinations.
I think you want a Hardi Spicer Ref # 343 Bearing Type R2-4 part Number K5-A537 It is a 1330 series to a 1350 series.
I would have to dig in to this more to be sure. If you could convert all your measurements in to mm it would be much easier (i am at work and just guesstimated on the conversions)
The Universal Joint I noted above has the duel cap size with a 92.8mm over all. The caps are 26.99mm and 30.16mm
I have to place an order with Hardi Spicer for some other U joints so if these were the ones I could add it or at least get a price quote for you. My orders have to come from Australia as the parts I get are only sold there and not sold here in the states by Hardi Spicer US.
dean1484 said:
I have to place an order with Hardi Spicer for some other U joints so if these were the ones I could add it or at least get a price quote for you. My orders have to come from Australia as the parts I get are only sold there and not sold here in the states by Hardi Spicer US.
Thanks. I'm going to confirm a few things and I'll let you know asap.
When I was in the parts bisiness company called persision U Joints made conversion joints for just what you are doing. worth a try
What kind of caliper is that? It looks like a really nice one.
When you're dealing with something that's measuring a part in fractions, on a part measured in thousandths, 5/8 (.625) and .622 are interchangeable. Assuming it's a regular 1330 in the driveshaft, I think all you need is a 1310/1330 conversion joint, like this one, being a Moog part it shouldn't be too hard to get ahold of.
Woody said:
What kind of caliper is that? It looks like a really nice one.
It's a GENERAL brand caliper. You can get it at Lowes. I assume that since I own it, it wasn't terribly expensive.
