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Murphy
Murphy
11/16/10 11:03 a.m.

My wife and I recently bought a 2010 Kia Soul, our first new car. So we've never had to deal with the dealer before. Im just wondering why our owners manual states that our first service is not due until 6 months or 7500 miles, but our dealer is trying to tell us its everything 3000? Besides the obvious fact that theyre trying to make more money. Just want to make sure we are correct if we stick to the manual. She took it in for a recall problem at about 4300 miles and they told her it shouldve been changed at 3k, the first service was free so I told her to go ahead with it. But they marked it as needing another one at 6000 still ha! So now we get a letter for the special offer of $49.95 for the 6k service. Im guessing they just send out a letter to everyone everything 3k. I dont see how its good business practice for the dealer to basically try and scam their customers into getting work done twice as often as nesc.

Also, I could find it in the manual yet, but is this 7500 mile oil change interval on standard oil and not synthetic?

thanks Nick My old username BlackHatcontracting stopped working for some reason....

triumph5
triumph5 HalfDork
11/16/10 11:12 a.m.

Ask to see the dealer service bulletin that says you have to change the oil at 3k miles.

And it works the other way, the manual is printed up first, then come the service belletins, they will over-ride the owner's manual.

When in doubt, always ask to see the dealer bulletin/paper work that backs up the dealer's claim.

Cone_Junky
Cone_Junky Reader
11/16/10 11:18 a.m.

Maintenance schedule (Alldata) lists it at 7500 intervals for normal service and 3000 intervals for "severe" service schedule.

I don't see any bulletins saying otherwise.

Ranger50
Ranger50 Reader
11/16/10 11:24 a.m.

MONEY!!!!

GM is doing the same thing with the Maintenance 1 and Maintenance 2. If you drive like a grandma on the freeway all the time, GM has written the program to not trigger the "Change Engine Oil" light for almost 8k miles. That is one oil change the dealer "loses" money on. Also the dealer is losing out on needed repairs to a vehicle with such a long service interval. I have seen vehicles that needed repair many miles ago, but because of all the added in other additional repairs needed, which means a much larger repair bill overall, the owner forgos ALL repairs and goes to "Hector's BBQ, HVAC, and Auto Repairs" to have things fixed. All because the dealership is out to steal all their money.

Just my view from the cheap seats.

Brian

RoosterSauce
RoosterSauce Reader
11/16/10 11:25 a.m.

I've never met a dealer service department that goes by the factory service intervals. It's always the arbitrary 3000 miles for oil changes.

I'd follow the manual and any TSB's. For my Hyundai's oil changes, it's 7500 miles normally, and 3750 for "severe" conditions.

Murphy
Murphy New Reader
11/16/10 11:31 a.m.

What type of oil should I be using the only thing the manual gives is the API Service SM ILSAC GF-4 or Above classification. I plan on doing the oil changes myself should I stick with the OEM filter? I shouldnt have any warranty issues by foregoing dealer service and doing it myself right?

Klayfish
Klayfish Reader
11/16/10 11:35 a.m.

I've been doing some of the oil changes on our '06 Kia Sedona myself. Knock on wood, I've never had a major issue with the van, but I never got any questions from the dealer when we brought it in for minor things. I use the oil weight they recommend (I forget what it is offhand), but I use NAPA filters and oil.

Ranger50
Ranger50 Reader
11/16/10 11:39 a.m.

You "should" stick to OEM, at least for the warranty period. Keep VERY detailed records. I know of a claim being rejected because of no records available. I also know of some cases where the owner used a very poor, but heavily marketed filter in the orange box, and nearly had the claim rejected after review by the DM.

Brian

Bobzilla
Bobzilla Dork
11/16/10 11:45 a.m.

Read the manual on what "severe" conditions are. It boils down to about 90% of the US would fit their "severe" conditions.

If you have the 2.0L Soul (Beta II engine) ONLY use OEM oil filters. There's a bulletin out from the early 2000's where aftermarket filters restrict oil flow to the head destroying the cam bearings and such. You can usually buy a pack of 5 or 10 for about $5 a piece.

Junkyard_Dog
Junkyard_Dog Dork
11/16/10 11:51 a.m.
Bobzilla wrote: Read the manual on what "severe" conditions are. It boils down to about 90% of the US would fit their "severe" conditions.

This is true.

Also how long are you planning on keeping it? Most of the factory intervals are designed to get you through the warranty period and thats it. If you plan on keeping the car for 100k+ miles isn't it worth it do err on the side of caution and service the car more frequently? To put it another way: Would you prefer to buy more oil changes now or an engine later?

Bobzilla
Bobzilla Dork
11/16/10 12:10 p.m.

^ In all honesty, the BEta is bulletproof as long as there IS oil and you don't use a Fram or cheaper filter. I run mine about 6k miles between oil changes. Anything past 6k and it starts to burn the oil. by 6500 it will be a full quart low. change it, run another 6k and no oil usuage.

Cone_Junky
Cone_Junky Reader
11/16/10 12:25 p.m.

API Classification API SM/ILSAC GF-4

Viscosity SAE 5W-20

bludroptop
bludroptop SuperDork
11/16/10 12:45 p.m.

Manufacturers want to push service intervals to the maximum so that they can claim low maintenance costs.

Dealers want to encourage frequent service intervals so that they can claim your wallet.

My wife's wagon is still under warranty. She doesn't drive much (to me, that is severe service). Manufacturer says 7500 miles - which would be about every 18 months the way she drives.

I change it once a year (5000 miles +/-). Since it is still under warranty, I have my local independent shop do it for me so I get a receipt. He charges me $12 plus the cost of an OEM filter. I supply the Mobil 1 (his idea, since he only has the dino juice in the drum).

Everyone is happy, except the dealer.

914Driver
914Driver SuperDork
11/16/10 1:02 p.m.

How do I bookmark this thread? I'm buying a Soul in the spring (didn't want to crack up a new car over the winter) and all this information will be helpful.

Murphy, I'm curious to see hou you like the car after a year.

Dan

Bobzilla
Bobzilla Dork
11/16/10 1:25 p.m.

Just ask....

Tom Heath
Tom Heath Webmaster
11/16/10 1:28 p.m.
914Driver wrote: How do I bookmark this thread? I'm buying a Soul in the spring (didn't want to crack up a new car over the winter) and all this information will be helpful. Murphy, I'm curious to see hou you like the car after a year. Dan

Click the little heart button at the bottom and you'll be subscribed to the thread. (It looks like this: )

Or you could just bookmark the page.

thestig99
thestig99 New Reader
11/16/10 2:45 p.m.

GM tried a 7500 mile oil change interval with Saab in the early 2000's. That's largely why you see so many 9-5's and 9-3's on CL needing an engine after the oil pickup gets full of sludge and people think the oil pressure light (which comes on at like 6 PSI) is no big deal.

Strizzo
Strizzo SuperDork
11/16/10 3:54 p.m.

well, you could only change your oil every 6 months/ 7500 miles, but thats the bare minimum. you don't want to just do the bare minimum, do you?

Keith
Keith SuperDork
11/16/10 4:00 p.m.

Apparently the service light in my M5 is triggered by the amount of fuel the car consumes. It's actually a pretty clever idea, fuel consumption is a pretty simple indicator of the severity of use.

But the interval is so freakin' long I'm probably going to lose this particular game of chicken and change it "early".

EvanB
EvanB Dork
11/16/10 4:04 p.m.
Keith wrote: But the interval is so freakin' long I'm probably going to lose this particular game of chicken and change it "early".

That just means you aren't driving it hard enough

emodspitfire
emodspitfire New Reader
11/17/10 9:11 a.m.

Folks,

Slightly off thread......

If Fram is crap....What is the gold standard for oil filters? (I have never had a problem with Fram.)

Is there a test standard? Who runs the test?

TIA,

Rog

Bobzilla
Bobzilla Dork
11/17/10 9:27 a.m.
emodspitfire wrote: Folks, Slightly off thread...... If Fram is crap....What is the gold standard for oil filters? (I have never had a problem with Fram.) Is there a test standard? Who runs the test? TIA, Rog

This is a specific vehicle you can't use the Fram on. I mean, I've had really bad luck with Frams. but there is a manufacturer's bulletin telling us not to use it.

SlickDizzy
SlickDizzy SuperDork
11/17/10 9:34 a.m.
emodspitfire wrote: Folks, Slightly off thread...... If Fram is crap....What is the gold standard for oil filters? (I have never had a problem with Fram.) Is there a test standard? Who runs the test? TIA, Rog

I tend to use Wix brand filters whenever I can. I had a Fram filter collapse on me once in an old Subaru. They are infamous for cardboard endcaps and very cheap construction. Never again will I buy one. There are actually SAE standards for oil filters, J806 (old one) and J1858 (new standard). Fram does not meet either, supposedly.

Ranger50
Ranger50 Reader
11/17/10 10:08 a.m.

I use OEM, Purolator, and WIX.

OEM tend to come from either Champion Labs, Purolator, Wix, and Mann. GM is AC Delco.

What I know is Champion makes Chrysler filters, Purolator makes Motorcraft, and I forget who Wix makes them for.

Just do a simple test in store. Take the filters out of there box and weigh them with your hands. Switch hands to eliminate side to side physical differences. You will think the Fram is made of alumimum vs someone else that feels like they are made of lead. Even the behind the counter Powerflo's at Advance are heavier then the showroom floor Frams. PowerFlo's are Purolator made but have shorter installed heights of the ones I have looked at side by side.

Brian

Marty!
Marty! Dork
11/17/10 2:23 p.m.
Ranger50 wrote: and I forget who Wix makes them for.

Wix makes NAPA filters.

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