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I built mine, it is large at 4' x 10', 4x4 legs, framed the top with 2x4s then used 1x 2x10, and 1x 2x12 for the front and back edge with a piece of 3/4 particle board in between, routed recesses into the large board make it all snug, cheap and strong, an LT1 is sitting on it now and there is plenty of room left for workspace.
Also made a shelf underneath with 1x8 boards
If you consider that most workbenches end up being covered with junk leaving no space to work, go half as deep.
Here's my toolholder bench, only a foot deep with receivers to hold various tools.
I didn't make this specifically for a work bench, but if I make another work bench it will be narrower.
I do have a welding table on wheels as well as heavy steel 'sawhorses' to hold up all manner of tonnage.
-James
pres589 wrote:In reply to SVreX:
Did someone call you a liar? What's this about "trust"? Anyway, I'm talking about putting a single sheet of the stuff over an old school dresser, the kind that has an inch plus of hardware for a top to begin with. Not some shelving unit from Ikea that snaps together in under 12 minutes.
3/4th ply is versatile. If the existing base material isn't thick enough, double up sheets of 3/4" using Liquid Nails and carriage bolt / washer combination to get it solid enough to beat on.
Methinks he doth protest too much.
The first reference in this thread was to ply on top of kitchen cabinets. I've done it, and was suggesting a better option.
"Trust me" was simply a reference to some of the experiences I've had. It's a true statement that I have built more than 50 workbenches (all of different designs), and I was simply sharing my experience, which is that 3/4" total thickness isn't enough.
Doesn't seem worth getting upset over, dood. Just trying to help (like you, and everyone else here). 
I watched craigslist for a solid exterior door for free. I snagged a solid MDF 36"x86" door.
The 4" of length that has the holes in it for doorknobs I ripped off. Then I screwed that to the wall in the studs as a nailer block. I took some scrap 2.5" galvanized tubing I had sitting around, took it to Home Depot and had it threaded while I bought 3 floor pipe flanges for $6 each.
Basically a bulletproof $20 workbench.
great idea curtis.. Pipe + flanges = very sturdy and cheap legs.
Shim wrote:great idea curtis.. Pipe + flanges... cheap legs.
Have you met my wife?
rimshot
curtis73 wrote:Shim wrote:great idea curtis.. Pipe + flanges... cheap legs.
Have you met my wife?
rimshot
cankles?
Bingo 
It's worth your time to check with the local scrap metal yards. Manufacturing companies buy new workstations all the time. The old workstations are sold for scrap. Most are made from 2"x2" tubing.
today I made a hideaway workbench. On heavy-duty, lockable casters and built so it can slide right in under the main workbench when not in use. I'll be using this one mostly for some woodwork/cabinet stuff this winter, where I"ll want more clearance than my big, heavy main bench can provide...
It will be painted once it gets warmer than 29 degrees. Probably black like everything else that I've built in the garage.
mostly made of leftover wood I had sitting around. Spent about $25 in total materials for it otherwise.
4eyes wrote:^^^^^^This, I got a 2 1/2' X 5' one for free from a neighbors workplace that was replacing.It's worth your time to check with the local scrap metal yards. Manufacturing companies buy new workstations all the time. The old workstations are sold for scrap. Most are made from 2"x2" tubing.
Why the wood tops? All the workbenches we have at the shop as well as my main workbench at home are metal. Much better when you're dealing with hot things. As a bonus, you can weld stuff to them temporarily.
My main work bench is a frame made of 2x2 and 2x3 steel box sections with thick wall sections - an old railing chopped up. The legs have 1/4" thick wall. The top is steel plate of unknown origin, I got it from behind my father-in-law's shed. The whole thing is bolted to the floor. I welded some nuts to the bottom for my vise mount so it can be removed easily if required. Total cost: the cost of the vise.
It'll hold up an engine. I've applied enough leverage to break a 5" vise in half without having any concerns about what the bench will do. I've welded brackets to it to make a suspension jig. I can beat on it with a hammer, attach my welding ground directly to it, etc. About the only thing I can't do with it is move it 
Obviously, it's a bit more than required here, although I'd still recommend a metal top to a set of kitchen cabinets instead of a door. At the shop, we have a number of Craftsman boxes with metal-covered wood tops. They're fireproof as well and take lots of abuse. More expensive than a home-built, but I've also used an "as-is" Ikea tabletop (metal-covered wood) with strong legs as a workbench. Heck, that table is now in the shipping department at Flyin' Miata...
In reply to Keith:
IDK if you're asking me or others, but if you look at my pic, the main workbench is all steel, which is where I work on car things, etc. Like yours, it has held an engine (Iron longblock out of a Triumph GT6!), so it's damn strong.
Only the hideaway one is wood top (since I'll be using it for woodworking stuff and want to be able to "drill through" the top if needed ($9 plywood can be replaced periodically when it gets too trashed).
