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I really like the LUCAS stuff. It just seems to work. Stops the leaks, stops squeals, keeps things running longer and smoother then you would expect.
I have never used seafoam as most of my motors have not required it but I might just give it a try on a sticky one that I have right now.
I can say I have Seafoamed my 3.9 about 3 or 4 months ago... I did that to try to clean it out, what I was hoping for, better MPG and performance. Right now, I have nothing but spark misfires and the same crappy mileage. I wouldn't piss on Seafoam if it was the last can in the store.
Guess I'll be cheap and break out my water and ATF+4 tomorrow after getting the morning paper.... Even though there is no hope for it.
My last "answer in a can" is the seafoam penetrating oil. Far better than others I have tried recently. It has a sticky property that seams to make it actually wick up into things. Proof positive to me was I used it to get the bolts holding the gas tank in my 924s off. The tank has never been out of the car and the car has lived in NE all its life. I was amazed. It is 2-3x the price of other popular brands ($10. a can) but I am sold.
When I was a kid we used to sell Bardahl by the ton. Everyone in the shop had at least 2 Bardahl jackets, and I thing you got one coat with every 10 cases. Are they still around?
Marvel Mystery Oil for noisy lifters, I've used it on several abused bmw m50/2/4 engines with excellent results. For me it's been a one time use deal, I dump in half a quart and then change the oil after a few days of normal driving.
I tried seafoam yesterday on my mercedes and pickup truck. I did the mercedes at idle and the pickup by driving around. The truck was seriously smokey. I did it in a business park but decided the neighborhood needed a good delousing. I stopped at a stop sign and some old man walked by while smoke was pouring out of the car, I wondered if this poor old man fell over dead could I be charged with manslaughter?
By the way the seafoam didn't seem to do anything other than burn my eyes and make my nose water. Anyways for 7$ it might have been worth the price of admission just for the theatrics. I was thinking it would be cool to take a vacuum line into the interior of my car. If someone starts getting a bit to close unplug the line stick it into the seafoam and put up a smoke screen.
benzbaron wrote:I tried seafoam yesterday on my mercedes and pickup truck. I did the mercedes at idle and the pickup by driving around. The truck was seriously smokey. I did it in a business park but decided the neighborhood needed a good delousing. I stopped at a stop sign and some old man walked by while smoke was pouring out of the car, I wondered if this poor old man fell over dead could I be charged with manslaughter?
By the way the seafoam didn't seem to do anything other than burn my eyes and make my nose water. Anyways for 7$ it might have been worth the price of admission just for the theatrics. I was thinking it would be cool to take a vacuum line into the interior of my car. If someone starts getting a bit to close unplug the line stick it into the seafoam and put up a smoke screen.
I actually went out and got a can today, took the Caddi out for a 20-30 mile run, came back and sucked half a can into the motor with the brake vacuum port.
Let it sit for ten minutes. Add what was left to the oil.
You could see the cloud from space. I let the motor run at idle for at least another 10 minutes till it stopped.
The motor is significantly quieter now. The big block tick was gone and it definitely do not do the little stumble on full throttle now. Valves are definitely quieter.
I have no idea if it will stay this way but worthy of the 7$ investment.
We've got the whole line of BG products at work (Nissan Service). I've got a can of MOA in with my O'Reilly (cheap) full synthetic 10W-30 in the old Volvo. I can't tell a difference, I thought I had a little lifter noise, that's now gone, but there's so many noises it's hard to tell. The BG guys are pretty convening with their torque wrench and bearing test, MOA vs. non MOA oil. Some of the other service writers really push the stuff, I've never sold a can of it that the customer didn't request, or I saw they'd used before in their history. I did some reading on the interwebs about it, and will say that, "not mixing with synthetic oils" is completely false. I mixed some in a glass and left it sit for about 20 hours, it stayed emulsified, no separation what-so-ever.
Seafoam, about the same results as most, some were big improvements, others made no difference. I do a whole can through a vacuum line into my intake about once a year. I put 2/3 a can in the gas tank and the other 1/3 in the crank case a day or two <100 miles before an oil change.
Marvel Mystery Oil, cured a tank of 7 month old separated crappy E-10 gas. A whole can of Seafoam didn't do a thing for the hard start, sputter, no start, sputter, finally come to life, terrible idle. I drove around for a couple days (had a full tank of bad gas). Coworker that used to run a engine machine shop told be to put a can of MMO in the tank. I reluctantly obliged, and within 10 miles it was darn near miraculous.
AMSoil Engine/Trans Flush. I never used it in the trans, but it sure got a lot of crap out of a relatively unknown junkyard engine. Oil was <200 miles old, first fill after swapping the engine into it's new home. I decided, to do the flush, holy cow was that some black nasty stuff that came out the crank case. I doubled the duration of the idle time with the Engine Flush in it (30 min I think) after reading some anecdotal reports of it online.
Marvel Mystery Oil: It works, it's been around for years and IIRC it's the only one that is certfied for aircraft use.
Seafoam: Used it, worked great, will use again.
And -sigh- here goes all my credibility: AMSOIL.
The stuff works, if you sign up to be a dealer, you get the stuff at the same price as mobil one.
Don't buy the oil filters, they're just a WIX filter with a different label.
25,000 mile oil changes mean I'm under my cars less and driving them more. I always ran my oil WAY longer than I should have, this way I'm still good.
I recently changed my F-150 over to all Amsoil stuff. engine, gearbox, everything. The shifting in the M50D trans improved quite a bit. I'll wait and see on the other stuff.
Shawn
MMO in the gas tanks works but if your cat converter is old it will clog.
Trans_Maro wrote: .And -sigh- here goes all my credibility: AMSOIL.
Nothing wrong with Amsoil. It's a quality synthetic that can sometimes be very reasonably priced. I use Interceptor in one of my 2 stroke bikes that has a known power valve sticking problem. It's known to work, and is cheaper than most of the big name quality stuff.
Mine is not really a snake oil, but something I've found that REALLY works. The Suzuki cars I drive have bad trans. It's not unusual to buy one that shifts like E36 M3, and has a bad 1-2 crunch due to a bad synchro. ATF can help but can also make it a little notchy feeling, so I made an assumption. What do screw compressors use for oil? ATF. What do heavily loaded, or extreme duty screw compressors use? Synthetic screw compressor oil. I've used the synthetic screw compressor oil in about 10 of these trans., and it works like magic. Takes a bad shifting, lousy feeling box, and makes it feel like new.
In reply to Zomby woof:
Where do you get said synth screw compressor oil, and how much is it? I need a magic cure for a crunchy 1-2 shift in an RX8.
I still think most of this stuff is just a placebo in a can.
2002maniac wrote:I still think most of this stuff is just a placebo in a can.
Yes
That said, Lubro Moly is my fav every other oil change. NAPA sells it cheap.
JohnyHachi6 wrote:In reply to Zomby woof:
Where do you get said synth screw compressor oil, and how much is it? I need a magic cure for a crunchy 1-2 shift in an RX8.
Any compressor service shop, or decent oil supply. Look for IR ultra, or one of the GD synthetics. Anderol is also excellent. ISO (viscosity) 46-100 is good. The 100 is thicker. Either is fine. For reference, I believe ATF is ISO 32
One of my Suzuki buddies also swears that one of the Motul bike trans oils does the same. I'll find out which one.
a401cj wrote:oldeskewltoy wrote:My favorite one was original Slick50... back in the early/mid 1980s Long story short... Volvo 122S - added Slick 50, did the prescribed pour and drive for 30-40 minutes. Came home and idle was 350 rpm above where it had been set prior to the use of Slick 50. First full tank of gas... mileage went from an average of 25, with 27 being the highway figure... to average 29, with 31 being the highway figure.........
What ever happened to that? I once ran an old full-size Cherokee 30+ miles during the summer w/o one single drop of coolant in the radiator. She was glowing like a hot ember when I raised the hood. I attribute her survival to Slick 50.
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/07/slick.shtm
They're still around but not in the force they used to be due to being sued. I remember that stuff and the Castrol oil that microcoated your engine (for better start up protection! or something) (also sued into oblivion) stuff being advertised on TV after Saturday morning cartoons in the 80s.
Nothing wrong with Amsoil quality... and they are the only affordable "approved" option for fluid for the Allison 6 speed auto in my truck. The cost difference equals the dealership price just for one flush/fill.
Since I had to buy the dealer lic to get a good price on the trans juice... I suppose I'll get the gear oil for the diffs and gearboxes in the fleet from them as well when spring rolls around.
I used the Interceptor 2 stroke oil in the kids racing kart with good results although is is impossible for me to quantify any difference at all from the the cheap weed whacker stuff I used before. I'll just say it smells better :)
Tufoil used to be one of my fav's. I've seen its use add 1 year of life to a bike known for bad cams. so bad all the aftermarket cam companys will not weld and re-grind that model cams poor design from the OEM. Add tufoil it lasted longer not a cure for sure but you can tell it was doing something.
Ginger Root for motion sickness. 
If your suspension is soft, a little of this will stiffen it right up for track use. Within a few hours, it will be soft enough for a comfortable ride home. (If the stiffness lasts for more than 4 hours, consult a qualified mechanic)
Seriously, I think everything on the "engine additive" shelf is about as effective as putting Viagra in your gas tank. I have never had good success with anything from Bar's Leak to Head Repair Formula.
Lucas Transmission Fix Lucas Oil Treatment Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner - and Total Fuel System Cleaner Seafoam 1 qt of trans fluid subbed for 1 qt out of 5 qts of oil (drive 500 miles, then drain) Water/trans fluid down the carb
All of the above I have used successfully over past 25 years for various purposes. Makes me sold old, or maybe "over experienced".
