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Lesley wrote:Yes, it is possible to put a KLZE in a Mazda 323... it just take a little... ingenuity.
Actually it's not that bad. You let me know when you want KLZE power for your 323 as well. You think the MX3 is peppy with a ZE? The 323 will be straight up FAST. 
LOL, no way. Once this project is complete I'm not even going to think about any swaps for a while.
I will probably have a ton of stuff left over - there are even extra heads. Let me know if you need anything.
Could use a set of fuel rails w/ all hardware and FPR, but i think that's about it. I've got so many parts coming and going it's making my head spin at this point. I think i have literally over 2 dozen packages en route. 
I'm going to change your mind eventually on the ZE 323. It's easy.
Shoot me a message and let me know what you want for that stuff if you have it. 
I THINK i can re-use the stuff from my K8, but i'd rather not. Want to keep the K8 intact for a Miata down the road. (Yes i'm serious. I need professional help.)
It's going to be awhile before this mess is figured out, since as a perpetually poor freelancer I've already blown my budget... but I'll let you know what we don't need. Which is hopefully most of it. There's a straight neck manifold with everything intact, I can pretty much guarantee we won't be needing that
What's FPR?
Lesley wrote:It's going to be awhile before this mess is figured out, since as a perpetually poor freelancer I've already blown my budget... but I'll let you know what we don't need. Which is hopefully most of it. There's a straight neck manifold with everything intact, I can pretty much guarantee we won't be needing that
Do you WANT to need it? I was serious about that last time i said you should use it. Doesn't cost much to mod to use it. Just have to relocate the brake fluid reservoir. Runs about $20 i think? Big increase in power and that manifold is set up for the VRIS points that your ECU is mapped to.
But, if you don't want it, i'll take that off your hands to try to get your budget back in check. I can always use spare manifolds for experiments.
Just let me know. Not trying to rush you, but i'm trying to have all my parts purchased by the time the MFactory LSD comes off back order, which is the 17th.
Lesley wrote:What's FPR?
Fuel pressure regulator. Basically i need the fuel setup, minus injectors. (Unless you've got a spare set.) But just the stuff around the head. Don't need filter or lines or any of that jazz. Got some AN stuff and a Fuelab inline filter around here somewhere i think.
Oh, the joys of pretty much starting with a shortblock KLZE.
Does the curved neck not have the VRIS points? I understood that the straight neck just flowed a bit better, and clears the brake booster.
I'm sure I've got the regulator in there somewhere too, will check...
Lesley wrote:Does the curved neck not have the VRIS points? I understood that the straight neck just flowed a bit better, and clears the brake booster.
I'm sure I've got the regulator in there somewhere too, will check...
No they both have VRIS, but the curved neck motors have different VRIS engagement points optimized for that motor. Curved neck had different compression, cams, and obviously the intake manifold. It's not really a big deal that you're running a curved neck on a straight neck motor/ecu, it isn't hurting anything, but it's not ideal. If you strapped it to a dyno, you'll see that your curve is a little wonky compared to a full-on straight neck motor.
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=619538&postcount=3
There's the solution to run a straight neck in a BG chassis.
Interesting. Damn, why don't you live closer? I'd be happy to exchange car parts for some help!
There's a set of the stamped KL 31 cams in the box too, depending on how much rebuilding is necessary I may use those.
You should be able to sell those for more than you paid for your entire haul...
Your motor currently has KL31 cams, right? If it doesn't, then TigerJDM screwed you in more ways than one.
Not 100% sure on that... I'm not counting on it, let's put it that way.
Lesley wrote:Not 100% sure on that... I'm not counting on it, let's put it that way.
Heh, i think the other cams are KL01.
Did your heads at least have square ports on the intake side?
If you check and you've got square ports, but KL01 cams (or KL101, forget which is which now)... You've got a good 30hp+ you're leaving on the table. Slap the KL31 cams and straight neck on there and hold on.
The Mike Rowe thread made me think of Lesley and her Mazda.
Any status?
Ahhh.... so glad to know that Mike Rowe and I are linked together, if only in the thoughts of my GRM brethren.
Been a busy week, so I haven't been over to the shop to see what the verdict is... planning on going tomorrow.
Spent today getting the Mighty Dak on the road, it's been sitting for almost 2 years. It was a workout loosening those lug nuts by hand, let me tell ya! Engine's purring like a kitten.
It's disturbing how much bubbled paint there is below the doors (that generation of dakota had those stupid lips under the doors just begging to rust instead of simply tucking under nicely) and beginning at the fender wells though
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Hey Lesley, make sure you get that King6fab timing belt tensioner. Mine came in yesterday. It's a nice simple piece, and he even supplies new tensioner mounting bolts, thought that was nice of him.
AND IT CAME WITH STICKERS!!!!!!!!
PS: Dont forget to check the stamping on your cams!
Oh, I will. If they've sold me a non-KLZE (which I doubt, since it was pretty strong!) then that could be a way to get some resolution out of the scammy d-bags. KIng6fab timing belt tensioner? I've never even heard of it, and now I want one... Arrrggghhh... pass the crack pipe!
Lesley wrote:Oh, I will. If they've sold me a non-KLZE (which I doubt, since it was pretty strong!) then that could be a way to get some resolution out of the scammy d-bags. KIng6fab timing belt tensioner? I've never even heard of it, and now I want one... Arrrggghhh... pass the crack pipe!
Any KL will feel real strong compared to a K8.
If it's got KL31-stamped cams and rectangle ports, you're probably ok, though it may have the 9.5:1 pistons, but that's hard to tell unless you disassemble it.
I think i linked the tensioner earlier... That piece should be NOT considered optional on one of these motors. The stock hydraulic tensioner sucks the big one, and has killed many motors.
$106 shipped, and worth every penny. Don't consider it a performance part, it's a part that helps ensure longevity of your motor.
