Cargo trailer advice?: Off-topic discussion forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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June 24, 2009 12:04 p.m. rob_lewis Dork

Looks like I need a little (6x12) cargo trailer to start carry kart stuff to the track and as a place for us to hang out in the pits.

I'm still debating between a real cargo trailer and a small "toy hauler" knowing that my V6 Silverado can't tow a bigger one.

I've never bought a trailer like this (the Harbor Freight 3.5x4 doesn't count) and was just looking for advice:

1) Is there a markup on these like cars? I.E. should I do the email blast to several dealers finding the best deal?

2) Steel v. Aluminum? I'm thinking aluminum to keep weight down, but do I need to consider steel for strength?

3) A/C roof or window unit? Seems like roof A/C units are $400+ where I can get a small window unit for $89. We're seeing quite a few 100+ degree days and it would be nice to be able to sit in an air conditioned spot. Maybe even let him catch a nap between heats.

4) Dealer or used? Seems like there's not much price difference.

5) Financing? I know I could finance a "toy hauler", does the same apply to cargo trailers? (Granted, I'm probably looking at less than $2500 for the cargo, so maybe not financing).

6) What else should I look for/ask questions about?

Thanks. -Rob
June 24, 2009 12:43 p.m. 914Driver SuperDork

I might as well say it before Quasi: Make sure it's tall enough!
June 24, 2009 12:55 p.m. 914Driver SuperDork

1.) Why wouldn't there be a mark up? If your budget is like mine, go for a used one. The P.O. usually upraded it and fixed the quirks. I would buy used.

2.) Aluminum is lighter! Steel is cheaper.

3.) Window unit with a nice quiet generator, unless you have power available at the site.

4.) See above.

5.) Money talks.... Bring cash in $100 bills, makes the bargaining easier.

6.) How is it hooked to the Silverado? Load levelers, brakes etc. Doors. Do you want one up front also? Is the wheel bolt pattern common or do you have to go back to a dealer when you boink a curb? Insulation? Roof vents? Locks? Can you put propane on the tongue like a camper so you can burn some ribs? Interior lighting and do you want 12v + 110 connections? Probably.

Dan
June 24, 2009 1:05 p.m. Per Schroeder Technical Editor/Advertising Director

curved or V-nose would help. Weight really isn't going to be an issue, as a steel 6x12 only weighs about 1600lbs empty (my 7x14 Pace weighs 1800) but drag at highway speeds is the kicker with an enclosed trailer.
June 24, 2009 4:19 p.m. rob_lewis Dork

I guess I should have asked "is the markup (therefore wiggle room) on a trailer high" only because used ones didn't seem that cheap.

It'll be hooked to the Silverado via a hitch (which I haven't bought yet). I assume the front side door would be nice to have.

Why wouldn't you be able to add stuff to the tongue? That's where I planned on mounting the A/C unit.

Per, my truck is an extended cab with a camper shell. I assumed a curved or v-nose wouldn't help much since the trailer would only be a few inches taller than the top of the shell.

This is along the lines of what I'm thinking: http://houston.craigslist.org/ctd/1200435043.html

-Rob
July 21, 2009 4:57 p.m. appalachianhiker

I have actually been doing some research on this. Go to: http://www.trailersandcargo.com/ and see what they have to offer. You can get windows, etc put in and get a nice trailer for about $3000 (or you can go with nothing for about $2000. I would go with new. I have yet to find a reasonable price on a used one. It seems like everyone wants more for a used one than a new one costs. You can also get either electric brakes (cheaper, but you need a brake unit in the tow vehicle) or surge brakes. There are other places to look, too and I have not used these people so I really cannot tell you how they are to do business with or the quality of their units. The V-nose really is not that much more expensive, so you may want to consider that just for the extra room. Of course, you could always add the AC unit to the front - or you could build a wood frame for the AC unit that you could put in the side door when you get where you are going. The AC unit could sit at the bottom on the floor and the rest of the door opening and sides of the AC unit could be covered by marine grade plywood. That way you would not have to modify the skin of the trailer. I would look for the AC unit on craigslist and get a larger one than the ones you can buy new for under a hundred dollars and still spend less money. I hope this helps.
July 21, 2009 5:24 p.m. Keith UberDork

Per Schroeder wrote:

curved or V-nose would help. Weight really isn't going to be an issue, as a steel 6x12 only weighs about 1600lbs empty (my 7x14 Pace weighs 1800) but drag at highway speeds is the kicker with an enclosed trailer.

So true. We towed two Miatas to the Mitty earlier this year using very similar Toyota trucks. One car - the lighter one - was towed in a 7x16 trailer. The other was on an open trailer. We drove in convoy. The difference in fuel economy was staggering - something like 30-40%, if I remember correctly. The box trailer sits higher than a camper shell does.

My own trailer is a basic 7x16. Nothing fancy, no AC or insulation or propane or power hookups. Electric brakes on all four wheels and a lockable box on the tongue to hold straps and hitches and random towing debris. I picked it up off Craigslist for a great price, it was almost new. Given my choice, I'd rather have a Low Hauler motorcycle trailer for the lower height and decreased drag. I noticed that trailer prices took a huge dive last year when gas prices went up.