I bought a 54' chevy 3100 in June 2010. It runs good but I'm from today's generation and do not know that much about old school cars/trucks. I recently drove it to the gas station and when I shut it off I left it in 1st gear and it started rolling backwards. I had to use the e brake to hold it. Is this a sign it's time to replace the clutch? A friend of mine told me I needed to put it in reverse and that should hold it. Doesn't sound right to me.
Thanks
My gut instinct is to verify that the clutch linkage travels freely, if it was that bad I would be surprised if it drove without having obvious slippage...
or replicate it on the same spot, open the hood and check to see whats turning ? is it possible that the old girl is tired enough that the motor can't keep her still ?
How far did it roll. How steep was the grade. Enough grade and the engine will turn over. If there wasn't a piston on a compression stroke it can also roll until one is.
And even afterward. I'm guessing a '54 Chevy engine doesn't have much in the way of compression, so I wouldn't be surprised at all if a heavy ass truck like that could turn the engine over.
It was a pretty steep hill. It didn't roll far because I was still in it and was able to stop it with the brakes. I know the engine has been replaced once according to the last owner. When I drive it in 2nd at high RPM's it slips into nuetral. on level ground, or slight incline it seems to hold. A side note though, I'm unable to keep the engine running when I push the choke all the way in. Carb problems? Engine wore out? I was planning on a tune up soon and was trying to hold off on a rebuild
I know it doesn't take much to get her going. She seems to start on the first couple cranks.
Steep hill = E-brake. Having to run with the choke on = crap in the carb. Put a kit in it and make sure you blast ALL the passages out.
Had a 58 ford that didn't have enough compression left to hold it on hills. Might do a compression check. If the clutch is slipping, you'll notice a rise in revs that doesn't match your speed.
Shouldn't it stay put when in gear even if it's on a hill??
I ran a bottle of seafoam last month. It didn't seem to help much. I think it's a one barrel carb.
How do I check compression? Does that mean total rebuild or just rings?
With an old truck the gear ratio in the rear end gives it enough multiplication to turn the earth, and if you've got a 1 barrel carb, I'm guessing it still has the straight six....
Test compression & when you doe the carb, make sure that there is now old stuff anywhere in the fuel system because the Ethanol in todays gas isn't kind to that old girl's parts !
Good Luck ( and how about a picture of said 3100 ? ) 
Have you driven a modern car with a clutch? Might be a good comparison. Reverse will work for parking because the gearing is so low, if the truck doesn't slow considerably when you downshift it may have low compression.
Yep, straight six. I know I add a lead additive when I fill up. How do I check compression?
Compression is checked with one of these.
Follow the directions that come with the kit. Basically it screws in place of the spark plugs and you spin the motor over with the starter. The cylinder pressure shows up on the gauge.
With an older heavy vehicle I wouldn't trust the engine to hold it on a hill. The only thing holding the car still is the friction and compression of the engine. If you think about it when cranking that is easily over come by a small electric motor. A stick shift doesn't have a parking pawl like an automatic does. Set the E brake. You would hate to have it end up at the bottom of the hill.
A one barrel carb is pretty easy to go through. A kit will come with all the soft parts. Pull the carb apart, spray every passage and hole with carb cleaner and an air hose and put it back together with the new gaskets. Watch out for small balls and springs in some of the passages. You don't want to blow them across the garage.
I drive a manual everyday. I notice a complete difference in how the clutches act; however I don't drive the truck everyday, but when I do drive it I don't have to press it in all the way.
Ran the old ford a couple of years as a work truck - never did anything to it - just lived with it and didn't park on hills - bought it for 500, sold it for 600. There are compression check tools in most parts stores, or a shop can do it for you. Could be worn rings or cylinder bore wear or a bit of both. For the carb - could be crud in it the seafoam can't dissolve.
Thanks for everyones help. I'll let you all know what I find out. As for pic, I get one soon. Again thanks
oldtin wrote:There are compression check tools in most parts stores, or a shop can do it for you. Could be worn rings or cylinder bore wear or a bit of both.
Don't forget valve condition & head gasket integrity... 
I've noticed a slight tick from time to time. kind of like lifters. Plus I'm pretty sure the valve cover gas needs to be replaced.
Perfectly normal. That is why you have a "parking" brake. Ever wonder why utility trucks use wheel chocks ?
A friend said it was normal too; however my 2007 pickup stays put. Just a lil worried is all.
It's probably worth checking the clutch linkage adjustment, to make sure it's working properly. You mentioned you don't have to push the clutch all the way in, which could mean the adjustment is too tight and the clutch isn't fully seated when disengaged.
If the clutch won't hold the truck on a hill, how in (ok heck)is it going to move the truck. ? A slipping clutch is noted when accelerating up that hill.
My ZX2SR with good clutch and engine compression would sometimes move a little when parked in gear after a few minutes.
54chevy wrote:I drive a manual everyday. I notice a complete difference in how the clutches act; however I don't drive the truck everyday, but when I do drive it I don't have to press it in all the way.
Look under the truck at the clutch linkage. There's a big bar coming out of the transmission and somewhere between there and your toes is a threaded rod. With this rod you can adjust the pedal to engage near the top of its stroke or near the bottom. You want the clutch fully engaged and the pedal with about an inch or so of travel before it starts to move the linkage. This will ensure the clutch isn't just "feathering" the mating surface.
While you're down there, take a look at all the mating parts, loook for oblong shaped holes, worn or missing nylon bushings etc. This won't make it move any better, but it makes the truck happier.
Dan
Thanks Dan, I'll check it out.
