How has Margie not comented yet?
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July 24, 2009 10:01 p.m. neon4891 SuperDork
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July 24, 2009 10:52 p.m. Dan G Dork
I will definitely post up some pics in this thread after I do mine. Probably not for a month or two, but I'll share when its done.
We always wanted to cover our bar with beer bottle caps and then epoxy them over back in college, but the epoxy was way too expensive. I think this Envirotex stuff is perfect for that kind of stuff, and its WAY cheaper than what we were looking at.
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July 25, 2009 1:39 a.m. Wally SuperDork
alex wrote: EDIT: I read through that link. Dan, you can basically replace Step 3 with 'paint however you damn well please,' then proceed to step 4, 'seal the crap out of it.'
That should work. When i was a kid my dad made my brother and I a box to take our slotcars to the track. It was like a wooden briefcase and he glued a Richard Petty poster to the side of and polyurethaned. It got wet many times with no problems.
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July 27, 2009 2:58 p.m. Rusnak_322 New Reader
SVreX wrote:
Rusnak_322 wrote:
we had pink counters with a brown sink in our old house. My wife painted the counter a eggshell color with latex wall paint and then sealed it with several layers of polyurethane. We lived there for two more years, rented the house for a year and sold it to my brother a year ago. They look like eggshell Formica and have held up perfect except for one small spot the size of a dime that the renter messed up by putting a hot pan on the bare counter. No one is going to confuse them for high end counters, but no one has guessed that they were painted for $30 either.
Wow, that's a surprise.
Did she sand the sheen of the laminate first? No peeling? Latex polyurethane?
Polyurethane is not FDA approved, however it has not been proven problematic either. The manufacturers simply don't submit it for testing.
yeah, she sanded them down. before that, she used some auto paint pre-cleaner to make sure that it was very clean. I saw the counters over the 4th and they are holding up perfect. These counters have a built in backslash and a curved finish on the ends. I can't remember what we used to top the paint, but it was most likely just some poly from Home Depot. Possibly some of the stuff we used when we refinished the wood floors.
I paint motorcycles as a hobby and thought that it would not stick. I gave her the idea when I said that I should paint them with auto paint.
I was secretly hoping that it would fail so we could just buy something nice.
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Aug. 5, 2010 10:11 a.m. Giant Purple Snorklewacker SuperDork
I am building a bar this winter when I set to finishing my basement. I think strategically "distressed" dyed concrete and embedded brass rail to give it a sort of old cantina look is what I'm shooting for. I think I have the top all figured out - its what to do with the support structure to make it look good that has me worried.
I will likely build it out of concrete block and set the top with a wooden form loaded with rebar. What does one skirt a concrete block support in to look like it belongs under a concrete slab? Round river rock? Stucco? Wainscot?
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Aug. 5, 2010 10:13 a.m. John Brown SuperDork
Hee hee I bought pre made laminate countertops, but it is for a trailer and they were cheaper by 10x
My aunt has polished cement tops and they are awesome. Sturdy indestructible, minimal maintenance.
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Aug. 5, 2010 10:14 a.m. Grtechguy SuperDork
GPS...from what I've found is you make a mold. No skirting needed
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Aug. 5, 2010 10:14 a.m. John Brown SuperDork
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:
I am building a bar this winter when I set to finishing my basement. I think strategically "distressed" dyed concrete and embedded brass rail to give it a sort of old cantina look is what I'm shooting for. I think I have the top all figured out - its what to do with the support structure to make it look good that has me worried.
I will likely build it out of concrete block and set the top with a wooden form loaded with rebar. What does one skirt a concrete block support in to look like it belongs under a concrete slab? Round river rock? Stucco? Wainscot?
Varmint heads ;)
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Aug. 5, 2010 10:27 a.m. Giant Purple Snorklewacker SuperDork
John Brown wrote:
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: What does one skirt a concrete block support in to look like it belongs under a concrete slab? Round river rock? Stucco? Wainscot?
Varmint heads ;)
I was using those for the tap handles and hanging lights. Don't you think it would be gaudy to over use them?
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Aug. 5, 2010 4:02 p.m. SVreX SuperDork
Grtechguy wrote:
Besides, no-one buys premade laminate countertops
Don't think I understand- I've used them, and know a lot of people how buy premade laminate countertops.
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Aug. 6, 2010 8:28 a.m. tr8todd New Reader
My dad built some for a customer that were green with bits of crushed glass embedded in it polished to a high gloss shine. He also formed in some drainage channels near the sink to funnel water back to the sink. Absolutely beautiful. Don't know how they held up over time as the last time I saw them was when I installed the finish plumbing, but they were gorgeous.
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Aug. 6, 2010 8:32 a.m. Giant Purple Snorklewacker SuperDork
Grtechguy wrote:
Canoe gun please?
Besides, no-one buys premade laminate countertops
Its not only for canoes but I don't see any reason it wouldn't work on one.
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Aug. 6, 2010 10:18 a.m. Marjorie Suddard General Manager
neon4891 wrote:
How has Margie not comented yet?
'Cause I was on vacation! Plus, I don't have any recommendations for concrete (really!).
I did paint the absotively horrible "woodgrained" laminate cabinets in my parents' condo kitchen using the sand+killz+latex method, and even without the top sealer they held up just fine. I would expect following the paint with a good poly-ish sealer on a countertop would get you something cheap, durable, and way easier to rip out come remodeling time than any stone/concrete/whatever surface.
I have premade laminate countertops in my house, by the way, because after ripping out a construction dumpster full of unblemished but outdated tile from my super-Seventies ranch's kitchen and baths, I realized you don't WANT the crap to last forever. 10 years and it's gotta go, I don't care what the material is. So why waste all that granite's time?
Margie
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Aug. 6, 2010 2:33 p.m. Josh Dork
I like the concrete, but like Margie, I worry about what happens to it in 10 years when it's inevitably outdated, but still a massive hunk of thing that needs to get out of your kitchen.
I'm actually going to do Marmoleum (natural linoleum) using Schluter stainless steel edging made for tile installations. Don't even bother trying to talk me out of it, I love the material, the looks, and I know it might not last 100 years. But it will be insanely cheap compared to granite, solid surface, or concrete, and in ten years when I want the marmoleum gone, the edging will still be there ready to receive whatever surface is the new hot thing.
Imagine these with a seamless sheet of marmoleum where the tile is:
Probably in a color something like this:
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Aug. 6, 2010 3:25 p.m. fastEddie Dork
I saw this the other day while look at the nearby wood stains. comes in 5 colors, $250 for 50 sf or 20 lf.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_68904-90-253202_0_?productId=3115485&Ntt=modern+master...
http://modernmasterstransformations.com/
HL
