In reply to dyintorace:
Okey Dokey, dyintorace. I'm a former bike shop owner and racer. Tommy's got it right, but here's alittle more detail and a place you go to find even more! Going for a better chain line is an important "kind to your drive-line thing". What you're doing (small front chainring to rear small cog) is called cross chaining. It causes MUCH earlier drive-line wear as well as wasting a surprising amount your energy. You gotta remember that we are small motors, so small losses have big impacts.
The 50-34 or "compact" gearing is fine for most of us mere mortals. It's only a problem if you're trying to sprint at 40 mph. If you can do that, get down to your closest weekend crit and race! If you travel and plan to ride out of state keep it.
One of the common miss conceptions about bike drive trains is that if it has 20 combinations it has twenty different gear ratios. It doesn't because there are many repeats (or near repeats) in the gearing. They are there on purpose. As you work your way up through the gears you will find yourself heading for the cross chain situation you've been experiencing. So lets say that you have the rear cogs shifted to position seven (with one being closest to the center of the bike and 10 farthest away) and you're on the small (inner) chainring. When you need a next higher gear you actually shift the rear BACK to position 5 as you shift to the bigger (outer) chainring. This is called a "Cross over shift". You soft pedal for a rotation as you do it (half a rotaion when you get good at it) to take the strain off the chain for a quick shift. You do the same thing in reverse when you are working your way back down the gears (this will happen when you go ride in Georgia, or some other place with a hill that's not also an overpass). Which ever direction you're going, do your crossovers just past the mid-cassette (say 6-7-8 cog on the way up and 5-4-3 cog on the way down).
Every rider will find a sweet spot cadence that they are most efficient at. Some guys are happier at 85 some at 95, but most will fall somewhere in that range for motoring along the flats. It seems you're a 95 guy, so experiment with your gears and find the duplicates in your gear set so you can try 'em out. Not knowing what cassette (the rear set of cogs) you're running (11-23, 12-27, etc.) it's hard to say if you'll need a two cog difference or a three cog difference for the smoothest transition when you cross over (on a compact it's usually two or three, sometimes four of you have a really tight cassette like an 11-21), but you'll find you can almost exactly duplicate the gear you are in on either the large or small chainring.
You can really drive yourself crazy by going to Sheldon Brown's website (google it) and down loading a gearing calculator. You can put your exact gearing in and print out a little chart to tape to the stem that shows your actual gear inches or ratio in each combination. That will give you a visual representation of where there are duplicates. Last word here is that if you see say a 52" gear on a big chainring combo and a nearby 51" gear in the small chainring combo, don't obsess! You wouldn't be able to tell the difference blind folded. Treat them as identical...also don't ride into a mailbox while focusing on the gearing chart. 
