I dropped the front subframe on the Fiesta ST to change the sway bar, and am having LOTS of issues. The latest is that one of the two large bolts that hold the subframe on will not go back in. The passenger side threaded all the way in by hand, the driver's side went two turns and then stopped short. I gave it some gentle pressure with a hand socket wrench, but no more because I don't want to cause damage or spin the darn capture nut.
The bolt is a 10.9, so I ordered a set of metric thread chasers. I don't have a tap/die set and this seemed like a great addition to the toolbox, especially when working with old and rusty stuff. I think metric is right, fingers crossed.
The plan is to chase the threads and hopefully be able to use the existing bolt. My concern is, why would the bolt come out easily but not go back in easily? I am going to take a peek with my inspection camera and also see if replacing the nut is even an option. Any other thoughts on what to do if a chaser doesn't work?
Either the threads are damaged, or there's some sort of junk in the threads. Try attacking with PB Blaster, then "thread" a rag in and back out until it comes out clean. Make sure your bolt isn't the culprit by looking for damaged threads there too.
Take the other one out and try it in that side first? See if the roblem moves
I'm not familiar with the front subframe of a Fiesta ST, but I find that when I have this problem, it is often caused by a misalignment of the parts. Is the assembly loose enough to make small adjustments in position? Can you visually check for perfect alignment?
Ian F
MegaDork
3/5/19 8:52 a.m.
Try a die on the bolt to check those threads are clean.
The problem I've had with thread chaser kits is many don't have the fine threads often used on cars.
I agree about parts alignment. Loosen the other bolt so the sub-frame can shift a tiny bit?
This is a great kit. I have the exact same, rebranded Craftsman one and has saved my bacon on more than one occasion.
For your subframe, you probably have one or two threads that are slightly deformed. Running the bolt through the appropriate die will probably clean/clear the thread and the bolt will go in smoothly.
Take it apart and verify the bolt will or will not thread into the hole with finger pressure only.
If its ok you need to get it into position and get both bolts substantially started by hand before you put a wrench on either one. And leave the first one mostly loose while getting the 2nd one started. Some jiggling of everything may be involved.
Then alternately tighten them until the unit is aligned, then tighten all the way.
Did you tighten the passenger side up all the way or enough that the driver side doesn't have enough slop to align itself? You can get a lot of clamping load on a bolt of that size even finger tight, that might not allow the subframe to move around enough to get the other bolt in its home. That's what I would try if you don't see any damage to the bolt and it didn't feel like it stripped on the way out.
How much was the metric only kit? Where'd you pick it up from? I'm not seeing anything under $75 on Amazon..
I broke one of those rethreaders, and ever since I generally just use a tap or die, even though I know its not the right way to do it. Seems they are made out of somewhat questionable grade steel, the undercut on the design does not help at all in the smaller sizes. I have had just as much success cutting a clean-out groove in a bolt, deburring with a file, and threading that in while flushing with plenty of lubricant.
That being said, its really one of three things - alignment, boogered up bolt, or boogered up nut - or both.
I would be very hesitant to move the bad bolt to the good hole, since that will likely damage the threads in that hole as well.
Check the bolt for damage, and gunk in threads, I found out first hand on Neons that the bolts cant stretch over time as a side note.
Thanks for the input. I removed the passenger-side bolt and switched bolts, both bolts thread fine into the passenger side, neither thread into the driver side. So I can eliminate the bolt.
I can get the subframe out of the way and have easy access to the hole, so no alignment issues. The bolt wants to go in at a slight angle, and that is worrisome. I will inspect, clean the hole, and wait for the tools to arrive.
WonkoTheSane said:
How much was the metric only kit? Where'd you pick it up from? I'm not seeing anything under $75 on Amazon..
Lang 2584. I see it as $28.88 on Amazon
In reply to WonkoTheSane :
I added a link, just click on the picture. WHICH, I wish I could resize. GRM Admins, are you hearing me?
You're a better man than I, two turns by hand to get it started and hit it with the impact gun would have been the way nearly all my projects go (had a miata subframe bolt once do just that, it's now as permanently installed as if I'd welded it on). Patience is a virtue.....
edit: I disclosed it to the new owner and told him if it was ever a problem he could bring it back to me.
Well, life is sucking more tonight. I double-checked the bolt and it is a M14 - 2.0. They do not make a thread chaser in that size. I can get a tap, but not sure if that is the best option. This is really pissing me off, this project should be done.
I am tempted to go the impact wrench route, but I think it will simply strip the capture nut from the frame then I will really be up Shlitz Creek.
glueguy said:
WonkoTheSane said:
How much was the metric only kit? Where'd you pick it up from? I'm not seeing anything under $75 on Amazon..
Lang 2584. I see it as $28.88 on Amazon
Thanks mate, it's in the cart. I wonder why my searches were wrong?
How long do you plan on keeping the car? Any chance you'll work on it again like this? If so, hey the tap. I've done both depending on my love for the car..
Consider Jeremy and Pete to be the devil and angel on your shoulders :)
WonkoTheSane said:
glueguy said:
WonkoTheSane said:
How much was the metric only kit? Where'd you pick it up from? I'm not seeing anything under $75 on Amazon..
Lang 2584. I see it as $28.88 on Amazon
Thanks mate, it's in the cart. I wonder why my searches were wrong?
Dunno. Maybe you were using the SAE search bar instead of the metric search bar. Speaking of which, I am humored by that third picture on of the Lang 2584 on Amazon. It shows a 3/4 open end wrench holding one of the taps with the flats not quite flush.
pinchvalve said:
Well, life is sucking more tonight. I double-checked the bolt and it is a M14 - 2.0. They do not make a thread chaser in that size. I can get a tap, but not sure if that is the best option. This is really pissing me off, this project should be done.
I am tempted to go the impact wrench route, but I think it will simply strip the capture nut from the frame then I will really be up Shlitz Creek.
You can make your own thread chaser from another bolt. I picked up that tip from an offroad magazine years ago and have done it a few times. Something like This
pinchvalve said:
Well, life is sucking more tonight. I double-checked the bolt and it is a M14 - 2.0. They do not make a thread chaser in that size. I can get a tap, but not sure if that is the best option. This is really pissing me off, this project should be done.
I am tempted to go the impact wrench route, but I think it will simply strip the capture nut from the frame then I will really be up Shlitz Creek.
Try Grainger. Last time I had to get a large metric tap that’s where I found it quick and local.
I’m annoyed at you having to drop the subframe to change out the sway bar.
I have a tap on the way, I will look into making my own chaser, that's a good idea. No M14 bolts at Lowes or Depot, might have to find a Fastenal.
