I want to add unnatural induction to a 2.0L VW engine, I am considering either a clutched style MB Eaton supercharger from a Kompressor equipped car (or similar sized compressor) or a larger stock DSM unit.
Obviously the 2.0L is not known for it's performance potential but I am dealing with what I have right now.
Outside of a slug to the temple, any suggestions?
What engine code? I know the ABA's love them some turbo goodness, really transforms the motor. Later motors I'm not so sure about.
Supercharging options are kind of limited though. Neuspeed's kit kind of flopped with high cost and so-so performance bump. BBM has some really nice gains with their Lysholm unit though. Not sure of any comparable GRM retro fits though.
neckromacr wrote:What engine code?
AEG IIRC
John Brown wrote:Obviously the 2.0L is not known for it's performance potential but I am dealing with what I have right now.
It's not?
If it's the internal water pump engine, it's the same block as everything else. (I've heard of a few 06a-block engines pushing 750-800hp)
Pistons and rods might not be the strongest, but plenty people mild pressure through by stacking headgaskets, sometimes not even that.
Now that I recall when I lived near DC there was a guy that had done a pretty sweet turbo setup, air to water intercooler and everything. When I asked how much it cost to do all that he laughed and said "too much"
I think the AEGs are a bit harder to junkyard turbo because of extra gizmos and electronics, but I only really focused on the ABA stuff.
Check the FI and 2.0 forums on VWVortex, the tech forums are thankfully free of the hooligans that inhabit the "MK" forums. Although search sucks pretty bad since they changed form software.
i know a local guy who took an AEG and slapped an ABA head on it and put a K04 on it.
I was thinking of doing an AWP head on an AEG, but you need to machine the top of the piston to clear one of the 5 valves, it will make contact if you dont. There is a whole thread on AEG swap internal stuff on vortex...
DukeOfUndersteer wrote:i know a local guy who took an AEG and slapped an ABA head on it and put a K04 on it.
I was thinking of doing an AWP head on an AEG, but you need to machine the top of the piston to clear one of the 5 valves, it will make contact if you dont. There is a whole thread on AEG swap internal stuff on vortex...
Bah, I've seen Andy Nelson cut valve reliefs in pistons with a mini-belt sander, then go out and run 10s a week later on that engine.
I haven't actually looked much at the AEG stuff. I thought they were pretty the same as an ABA, but with the integral water pump and different style oil pump. What could possibly be the advantage of putting an ABA head on one?
I've been halfway planning on building a 20/20 with the ATW head and ABA block I've got laying around.
dont think there is any real advantage of an AEG over an ABA... Weight? i dunno...
AEG = ABA for all practical purposes. Not sure if any got the small wristpin/crack cap rods like the 1.8ts, those like to leave blocks @ 300wtq.
This in a Mk4 or swap to earlier chassis? What were your management plans?
Supercharger is never a good idea.
Paul_VR6 wrote:AEG = ABA for all practical purposes.
That's what I thought. That's why I asked about this:
DukeOfUndersteer wrote:i know a local guy who took an AEG and slapped an ABA head on it and put a K04 on it.
Why?
16vCorey wrote:DukeOfUndersteer wrote:i know a local guy who took an AEG and slapped an ABA head on it and put a K04 on it.
Why?
Dunno.. because he could i guess. Ive always chosen the 1.8t NeVa LoSe. I personally want to swap this AWP laying here in the shop into a Mk1 rabbit...
Silly fat guy wants to know why a supercharger is never a good idea?
I would be more interested in say 0-60 than 35-100 as the car would primarily be a rallycross/autocross car and occasional drive it in to work car if necessary.
As far as management I am considering a Megasquirt + spark setup.
It is a MKIV type car, All OE wiring will be removed and replaced with something a little more common sense. Expect 2350lbs in rallycross form and 2425 in autocross form (lightened, gutted, OE harness removed, lightweight seats front, rear seats and extraneous panels removed. 15x6.5" 10lb alloys and 195/65r15 snows for rallycross and 17x9 alloys with 275/40r17s for cone patrol - I know don't say it)
On a little more like that you're most likely to either find: 1) inefficient chargers that make more heat then anything else (heaton) 2) grenades that only make boost near redline (G-lader, centrifugal)
I've built a few cars (at customer recommendation) with various chargers and have never been impressed with performance. I'd rather just spend half the energy and throw a VR in it or do it up with a decent turbo setup.
With a decently sized turbo you'll have plenty of low and top end. If you're a low-end guy keep the turbo small and the boost large. However it's harder to keep motors together this way. On the cheap a Holset HX30 would be a good choice, as would be any T3 with a .48 hotside.
That weight with or without driver? If it's with you need to remove quite a bit more to hit that in a Mk4.
16vCorey wrote: I haven't actually looked much at the AEG stuff. I thought they were pretty the same as an ABA, but with the integral water pump and different style oil pump. What could possibly be the advantage of putting an ABA head on one?
IIRC, the '96-up ABA heads flow like crap, and the AEG heads are even worse.
But for a couple shining years, ABA heads were awesome. Which is why OBD-I ABA heads seem to be priced like gold.
Paul_VR6 wrote:On a little more like that you're most likely to either find: 1) inefficient chargers that make more heat then anything else (heaton) 2) grenades that only make boost near redline (G-lader, centrifugal)
I've built a few cars (at customer recommendation) with various chargers and have never been impressed with performance. I'd rather just spend half the energy and throw a VR in it or do it up with a decent turbo setup.
With a decently sized turbo you'll have plenty of low and top end. If you're a low-end guy keep the turbo small and the boost large. However it's harder to keep motors together this way. On the cheap a Holset HX30 would be a good choice, as would be any T3 with a .48 hotside.
That weight with or without driver? If it's with you need to remove quite a bit more to hit that in a Mk4.
That's what I needed to hear.
Weight without driver. More is available to lose but for now I am keeping the glass in it.
The 96+ heads flow almost identical to the earlier 'non hump' castings up to .400 lift, so with stock cams there's no worry at all. Also, hump heads should have much better swirl and when ported 'correctly' will make more power. Though, with boost (especially adjustable boost) any loss in head flow can easily be made up with the crank of the fun knob.
The 'gold' ABA is the OBD1 not really due to the head but due to the forged crankshaft and oil squirters. However I have personally seen someone make over 700whp on a cast AEG crank so I wouldn't sweat that much at all.
