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  • friedgreencorrado

    Dec. 30, 2011 9:40 p.m. friedgreencorrado SuperDork

    Okay, this is gonna get weird..but "cool" weird, not "freaky" weird. Hang with me for a minute or ten?

    One of my other hobbies is Model Rocketry (like Estes & stuff). I'm also a fan of astronomy & space exploration (my aunt is ex-NASA, worked on Apollo when I was a kid), so I like building scale models of real rockets. Actually won a couple of local NAR Sport Scale contests with this one years ago. 1/24 LTV Scout (on the right):

    Anyhoo..while we've been packing for the move, I stumbled across what was supposed to be my follow-up project. Kitbashed Atlas-Agena, from the Estes 1/35 Mercury Atlas kit.

    Partially consumed 12-pack included for size demonstration (and an explanation for this message?).

    Earlier this evening, Logan (SWMBO's son) & I were playing with his new Hot Wheels set, and it has one of those "color change" cars, the ones where you splash either hot or cold water on it, and it changes to a completely different color...

    And I had a crazy little idea. Here's why I'm looking for a color change.

    Folks who build Atlas models for contests always have a problem. The early (real) ones were very lightweight in construction, the pressure from the weight of the fuel in the tanks was actually used to help hold the structure firm during the aerodynamic stress through the lower parts of the atmosphere. Problem for the modeler is that when they're unfueled, they're bare metal:

    But when they're fueled & launched, they appear white because of the ice condensation (liquid oxygen only remains liquid below something like -300deg F, right?) on the outside of the vehicle.

    There is no standard rule in the book about how an Atlas of this vintage (late 50s to late 60s) should be painted, so it's kind of up to the individual judges. Problem for us Atlas lovers is that models are judged twice: first, while lying on the table, and then again in flight.

    The judges who think an Atlas should represent the un-fueled vehicle take points off in the static judging if you've painted like the condensation is there, and the ones who think you should model the fueled-up vehicle take points off if you fly a bright silver thing that doesn't look like the old NASA photographs.

    Which brings me back to temperature-sensitive "color-change" paint. Does anybody know how that stuff works? Can it be replicated at home? And if not..is there one that is clear at one temperature, and pasty white at another? What I'm wondering is if I could find a way to have the thing bare metal on the static bench, but icy white on the pad. I'll worry about the fact that water is involved later, if doing something like this is actually possible.

  • JoeyM

    Dec. 30, 2011 10:05 p.m. JoeyM SuperDork

    no personal knowledge. google found this
    http://www.paintwithpearl.com/colorchangestore.htm
    http://www.thermalpaint.com/products_singlechange.html

  • EastCoastMojo

    Dec. 30, 2011 10:31 p.m. EastCoastMojo SuperDork

    Rig up some dry ice to cool the metal from the inside and to provide some realistic atmosphere along with some LED flamage? Sounds good anyway.

  • friedgreencorrado

    Dec. 30, 2011 11:06 p.m. friedgreencorrado SuperDork

    Joey, thanks! That's definitely a place to start.

    ECM..it's a model rocket. No metal allowed for structural parts of the body.
    http://www.nar.org/NARmrsc.html

    History of model rocketry:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_rocket#History_of_model_rocketry

    EDIT: Just can't let it go without mentioning that without the combined works of Messrs. Carlisle, Stine, & Estes..I probably wouldn't have both eyes & all ten fingers today.

  • speedbiu

    Dec. 31, 2011 12:28 a.m. speedbiu Reader

    What colors do you need it to change from/too? Theres two ways.One paint is changed by temp and the other by contact with water.The problem would be having the paint change to both colors you need.

  • Appleseed

    Dec. 31, 2011 1:30 a.m. Appleseed SuperDork

    Dry ice will still chill plastic. Bare metal foil on the outside and solid CO2 on the inside. Make some vent tubes in scale locations to replicate the vent valves on the full sized rocket for bonus points.

  • friedgreencorrado

    Dec. 31, 2011 7:21 p.m. friedgreencorrado SuperDork

    speedbiu: has to be clear when not flying, and white at launch. The color change paint would be applied on top of a silver mylar wrap.

    Appleseed, interesting idea..but I'm worried about what the dry ice would do to my recovery system (and yes, I'm upgrading..no Estes rubber-band shock cord or "trashbag" parachute..probably gonna go nylon for the chutes and kevlar for the cord) and airframe. And NAR contest rules usually frown on ejecting anything other than recovery wadding.

    You're right about the vents, though..they'd go nuts for it. Heck, I'd have to vent it to keep the stuff from pressurizing the airframe and separating the nose from the tail on the way up. Those are not pretty..
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FxPVTwKiPE

    I might try the dry ice if I was building from scratch..but I used the kit parts. The body tube is cardboard, I know know what the stuff would do to it.

  • John Brown

    Jan. 1, 2012 9:51 a.m. John Brown SuperDork

    So can you freeze it prior to launch?

  • mmosbey

    Jan. 1, 2012 10:16 a.m. mmosbey Reader

    I wonder if you could play with talcum (or similar) powder. Perhaps chalk powder. Corn starch. Powdered sugar.

    It'd just disappear within a few feet of launch. It might be pushing the rules against ejecting anything other than semi-flameproof Charmin, but I am sure it's actually safer.

 
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