Project S10 FAIL: Ripped out my bunghole!

Determined a new O2 sensor was needed. That one final click of the ratchet and PING! everything's loose.

I ripped out my bunghole. Ow.

Much cursing ensued.

Time to shop for a new exhaust manifold. Or, I may tear off the heat shield/heat stove and see if the bung can be welded back in.

One step forward, two steps back.

only on GRM can bunghole NOT mean something anatomical

EvanR wrote: I ripped out my bunghole. Ow.

Thank you. That made my day!

Turns out it could be worse. Rock Auto sells an aftermarket manifold, complete with gasket kit for under $100. In the big picture, that's not too bad.

Will explore other options first, though.

You need TP!

Time for a header?

Kenny_McCormic wrote: Time for a header?

Preliminary searching doesn't come up with a header for the Iron Duke S-10.

Thing is, the factory manifold pretty much IS a header. It's steel tubes, not cast, and the tubes are as big as the ports. I couldn't see much that would be gained with a header.

Thing is, the factory manifold pretty much IS a header. It's steel tubes, not cast, and the tubes are as big as the ports. I couldn't see much that would be gained with a header.

Don't tell me they did something right with the Iron Duke...

pres589 wrote:

Thing is, the factory manifold pretty much IS a header. It's steel tubes, not cast, and the tubes are as big as the ports. I couldn't see much that would be gained with a header.

Don't tell me they did something right with the Iron Duke...

I have heard that many small block Chevy parts fit them, including the head, the bore and stroke is the same as a Z28 302...

here's how the manifold came off mine...

it's pretty normal for them to fail... http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f89/1991-s10-2-5a-exhaust-manifold-340025/

I do recall when I was considering keeping the duke that you could find a cast manifold option that might last...

as I understand it it's not SBC stuff that fits but a few pontiac engine bits... specifically the pontiac turbo TA stuff...

EvanR wrote: Thing is, the factory manifold pretty much IS a header. It's steel tubes, not cast, and the tubes are as big as the ports. I couldn't see much that would be gained with a header.

Take a closer look. It's tubular, but it's not very well done.

so I guess it now needs a bungplug?

mad_machine wrote: only on GRM can bunghole NOT mean something anatomical

i'm sure people on forums dedicated to barrel making would also not necessarily have an anotomical meaning for that word..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7upVkCelYoA

novaderrik wrote:

mad_machine wrote: only on GRM can bunghole NOT mean something anatomical

i'm sure people on forums dedicated to barrel making would also not necessarily have an anotomical meaning for that word..

Those barrel makers are a crazy bunch. You should see the heated debates about the best way to plug a bung hole!

EastCoastMojo wrote: You need TP!

You have TP for my bunghole?

I voted this topic up on the thread title alone.

I just bit the bullet and ordered a new manifold from Rock Auto. How quickly can a $1000 truck become a $2000 truck?

pres589 wrote:

Thing is, the factory manifold pretty much IS a header. It's steel tubes, not cast, and the tubes are as big as the ports. I couldn't see much that would be gained with a header.

Don't tell me they did something right with the Iron Duke...

I don't think they had any other choice.......it was probably the only way to not have it make 47hp at the crank.

he always coula just made some zoomies out of the hood... :)

Threadjack: Can the Iron Duke be made into non-garbage without a ton of effort? I'm seriously interested in getting rid of my Intrigue once I fix a few more items on it (I keep saying that, the heat is keeping me out of the garage...) and a boxy S10/S15 is on my very short list of replacement candidates and I really would prefer something with four cylinders all in a line. What's the MPG like in a 2WD/5-speed extended cab S10, are they as slow as they seem to be, and how can they be improved on without pulling the motor?

not really... on all counts... will take some $$$ to build it up to make much more HP... and it all requires work on the internals... the bottom end won't hold up to much either from what I understand...

it was popular with some circle track stuff though and is some serious things you can do... but your money would be better spent with a 4.3L or a v8 swap... both are pretty straight forward and simple

I ended up swapping a volvo engine into mine :)...

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-threads-and-project-cars/1988-s10-turbo-volvo-powered/52547/page1/

That's too bad, I wondered if a milled head & decent valve job, a little port work, and then ignition / injection work would make these things less sucky. The 4.3 is just kind of... I don't think it's too impressive really and a cheap V8 swap won't be good on fuel either. Maybe a 4.8 or 5.3 LS-type swap but it's still bulky and frankly more power than I want/need. Perhaps a 3800...

Screw it I'll just keep looking at Mazdas.