OK gents.
I need to fix this floor.
Naturally the cars like to leave their marks.
I'm thinking BEHR products will work.
Degrees. Clean/Etch And then paint.
Just need some nice weather.
Any other product suggestions?
It really looks like its never been treated.
A.
Andre,
I used the stuff from Griot's and it was great, just didn't go far. I will make one suggestion...
When they tell you to spread 15 grains of sand per square foot between coats? That's a good idea. When I did mine I figured, "if 15 is good, then...." and grabbed a small handful of fine sand and sowed. Now parts of my floor are the equalivant of sandpaper.... You don't need much to avoid slipping....
I have used the Rustoleum stuff you can get at Lowes for under $100 and I've used the Griot's stuff. Griot's is thicker and glossier--but regardless of the type, prep is very important--make sure it's clean, degreased...
Prep is paramount. Vapor is the killer, though. There's a good epoxy floor write-up on Griot's website with a quick test to see if you can even use epoxy on your floor.
If/when I build my shop, the slab will be insulated and have a vapor barrier, so epoxy will be done. However, my garage and the g/f's garage both have through-slab vapor problems that would kill epoxy.
My g/f is just planning to eventually clean the floor and use a penetrating system POR15 sells and accept it if it fails in places.
My garage will get a raised PT wood insulated floor so my scissor-lift with be closer to flush vs. cutting the slab and recessing the lift. Unfortunately, too many other projects to do before that one.
I used to do garage floor coatings. We used a Pratt-Lambert epoxy. Degrease/powerwash, etch with diluted muratic acid - you can hear it fizz - when fizzing stops, rinse, make sure it's dry and have at it. Add clean sand for traction - it's very slippery without the sand when it gets wet. The only negative with epoxy is that it can be vulnerable to heat - so careful when welding - hot sparkies leave marks.
