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mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 8:55 a.m.

In reply to NOT A TA :

Maybe an hour run time max not all at one time

NOT A TA
NOT A TA SuperDork
11/1/20 8:55 a.m.
mainstreettattoo said:

The break booster is attached to that port 

Since you're not driving the car now just use that one for the PCV and leave the power brake hose off.  Then once things are straightened out you can get vacuum things hooked up properly.

mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 8:58 a.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/1/20 9:02 a.m.

We've all got our fingers crossed for you. Like NOTATA said, you're not the first person to do this, and you might be OK, with just a couple of short-interval oil changes.

NOT A TA
NOT A TA SuperDork
11/1/20 9:11 a.m.

Looks like a 2975 intake in your pic. There's no provision for manifold vacuum on those. Your carb may have another 3/8" port on the front for manifold vacuum (usually on an angle) depending what carb it it. Can't see in your pics because air cleaner's in the way.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/1/20 9:18 a.m.

I had an intake like that a long time ago. My dad drilled and tapped into the plenum and installed a barb fitting for my brake booster.

Patrick (Forum Supporter)
Patrick (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/1/20 9:43 a.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

or just get a carb spacer and drill/tap that since the intake is already installed

mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 10:22 a.m.

Damn aluminum fitting just broke off in the intake. Great lol

mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 10:26 a.m.

My next question is how to get all the gunk out of the engine after all back together? And should I drop the pan and clean it 

SVreX (Forum Supporter)
SVreX (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/1/20 11:47 a.m.

In reply to mainstreettattoo :

Clean what you can, then do a few short interval oil changes. 

mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 11:56 a.m.

I have 2 other manifold vacuum ports on my carb but there smaller. Can I use one of these I stead? The only  3/8 is used for canister for breaks 

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/1/20 11:56 a.m.

In reply to mainstreettattoo :

There's not really any gunk to clean out, just a bit of residual coolant in the crankcase to evaporate. With fresh oil and filter, I'd run it for another cam break-in cycle. During that cycle the engine will come up to full operating temp, and some of that residual coolant will evaporate and be sucked out through the PCV, which draws it into the intake and burns it off. No worries. Then another oil and filter change, and start driving it.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/1/20 12:03 p.m.
mainstreettattoo said:

I have 2 other manifold vacuum ports on my carb but there smaller. Can I use one of these I stead? The only  3/8 is used for canister for breaks 

I'd call that "better than nothing, but not good enough." Do you have room under the carb for a 1" spacer plate with a 3/8" vacuum port in it?

another option is to use an electric vacuum pump for the brakes. They were used on cars and trucks that had Diesel engines with vacuum brake boosters, and have been used for cars with big cams that don't make much manifold vacuum. That's probably the easiest solution. Jeg's, Spedway, Summit, they all carry these.

Floating Doc (Forum Supporter)
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) UberDork
11/1/20 12:08 p.m.

I didn't have this problem the last time I started a new engine. The reason for that is that I didn't remember to add coolant.

You're doing better than I did. I'll bet you are going to be fine.

mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 12:28 p.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) I will have to look i to that I do t think I have room for another spacer 

mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 12:30 p.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Its got alot of foamy crap under the valve covers

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/1/20 2:14 p.m.

In reply to mainstreettattoo :

That's probably the worst of it because whatever evaporated while running rose up to the valve covers. Wipe them out before restarting it, watch the temp and oil pressure, listen for bearing noise.

mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 2:30 p.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

When I shut it down the temp was at 210 and the oil pressure was sitting on 60. Also I ordered a 1 inch open bore spacer with vaccine port.  

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/1/20 3:21 p.m.

In reply to mainstreettattoo :

Like NOTATA said, for now you could run it with the brake booster hose not connected, and the PCV connected to that port. If you're antsy to get it running again, that is. And if you were able to get the broken fitting out of the intake so you could plug that port.

mainstreettattoo
mainstreettattoo New Reader
11/1/20 3:31 p.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Not in any rush just want to do it right and complete been working on this  project for 2 years now. As far as the broken fitting. I tapped it and installed a 5/8-11 plug in it 

NOT A TA
NOT A TA SuperDork
11/1/20 5:55 p.m.
mainstreettattoo said:

I have 2 other manifold vacuum ports on my carb but there smaller. Can I use one of these I stead? The only  3/8 is used for canister for breaks 

One or both of those may be ported vacuum for things like vacuum advance on distributor. They may not have any vacuum at idle.

You haven't mentioned what type of use you're building the car for, but that single plane intake is designed to work best at higher RPM than typical street use. If you then add a 1" spacer under the carb you may find you don't have very good street manners and off idle throttle response may suffer. You can carefully drill, tap, and install a fitting like the one AngryCorvair's dad did in the plenum fairly easily with the intake in place on the engine. Get advice here first to avoid extra work or problems. I'd strongly recommend that route to get another 3/8" manifold vacuum fitting vs. a 1" carb spacer.

As others mentioned, wipe out the valve covers and clean the moisture you find on the top of the head in little puddles etc. ALSO because you were pumping water into the crankcase the valve cover breather that normally filters air being pulled into the engine may be wet/damp because hot damp air was exiting the breather (Opposite of it's normal function and cooler so condensation would form in the breather) so if you have an air hose blow it out. No air hose, use a blow drier for hair.

If you have the knowledge/tools to prime the engine before attempting to run it again I would do that. I'd throw a clean filter and a few fresh quarts of any cheap thin oil in (no need to fill) and spin the oil pump with a drill (without valve covers on) till you're sick of holding the drill with someone watching your pressure gauge. Bring it up to 50lbs or so and just stay steady. I'd recommend slowly turning the engine over by hand at the same time if possible.Then remove filter, dump that oil, and fill the crankcase with a good break in oil for your flat tappet cam and fire it up. Follow Angry's advise of bringing up to full temp during cam break in and then another oil/filter change.

Uncle David (Forum Supporter)
Uncle David (Forum Supporter) New Reader
11/9/20 7:40 p.m.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

I had an intake like that a long time ago. My dad drilled and tapped into the plenum and installed a barb fitting for my brake booster.

This is a solid answer.  Take the intake off the engine first.  But if the intake is off, follow NOT A TA's advice and get a dual plane intake, with a vacuum port. 

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/21/20 10:49 p.m.

Any update?

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