Can someone explain transmission tuning to me? Or at least how everyone appears to be tuning them?
Here is an example of typical transmission tuning procedure when you go and look for tunes by others:
Transmission:
Set Final Gear@: 5.500
Set top Speed @: 112MPH /190Km/H
Set Individual ratios to:
1: 3.853
2: 2.841
3: 2.197
4: 1.763
5: 1.468
6: 1.267
Set final gear to:3.550
Ok. Why is it necessary to set the final drive high, then set the max speed low, then tune, and reset your final drive? Why cant you just enter the gear ratios in? Is there a huge advantage to this convoluted procedure that is above and beyond just letting the game set the gears with AutoSet?
Help me understand why this tuning method seems to be embraced by most all of the tuners out there. I dont get it. Well that and I really dont understand much about transmission/gearing tuning anyways. lol.
I just mess with the top speed slider. When you do that it adjusts all the gears appropriately.
Occasionally I'll mess with 1st and second gears individually to get a better launch, but that's about it.
Thats about the extent of my willingness to tune gearing as well.
I think that the game gives you gear ratio ranges based on the final drive and top speed auto set. So if you don't do the high Final setting first before the auto set, you won't have the suggested gearing within the given ranges per gear. The second Final Drive setting then sets just takes you to a reasonable final drive that you want. If you mistakenly use auto set after all of that you would have to start from scratch.
I find that auto set is OK. If you really want to dial in the car, you can't use it. Unlike GT5, when you manually change gears or final drive it gives you no clue to top speed. You have to test. I set every gear manually. If you watched me accelerate away from or up through the field at the SM starts in a lower powered NB Miata, that's why.
I manually configured my gears in the ET car and it is why I got such great runs from the line. I set up 1st and 2nd with the rear dif so that I got little if any wheel spin when I matted it in 1st and 2nd. This meant max power was getting to the ground and I got max acceleration off the line and out of 2nd gear corners.
To do this I tune 1st and 2nd and the final drive first (you can do this with the max speed setting if you want) then only adjust 3,4,5&6 gears for what ever track we were running. Depending on the track and the car you may have to change the max speed and then readjust 1st and 2nd back to what they were for max acceleration so you can get the proper amount of adjustability in the other gears on shorter or longer tracks. Sounds complicated but it is simple to dial in and then easy to adjust for the particular track you are running.
I usually do the Spool method of auto set top speed then tune 1st for the start.
However this past SM series, I did extensive gearing work for Spa as there was always something off with the auto set. I only had 5 gears so I had to tune 4th for the hill climb sections without draft and 5th for draft but needed 2nd and 3rd to fit most other turns. My error was thinking I would use 1st after the start. I tuned 1st for the hairpin but ended up only using it once then used 2nd after that.
I can see the value of getting the right gearing but I have better luck with suspension tuning.
Advan046 wrote:
I think that the game gives you gear ratio ranges based on the final drive and top speed auto set. So if you don't do the high Final setting first before the auto set, you won't have the suggested gearing within the given ranges per gear. The second Final Drive setting then sets just takes you to a reasonable final drive that you want. If you mistakenly use auto set after all of that you would have to start from scratch.
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks
The electronic hill climb seasonal is just not possible. I think maybe with all aids on, maybe.
I tried a few laps with all aids off. I think if you can master the oversteering into the corner and hold the perfect rotation out on the power then you can win gold. I am no master.
Spool. You're up!!!
Advan046 wrote:
Spool. You're up!!!
FT-1 and Pikes peak have a new leader 
I'll get to the others this week.
EDIT: the pikes peak one was a bitch
In reply to Spoolpigeon:
Thanks Spool I can at least say I know of someone that did get gold in that darn pikes peak one.
Any tips?
In reply to Advan046:
Yes. Run an incredibly tight line through the first sector. Don't bother with trying to late apex everything. Just brake right to the apex, shoot straight to the next apex and so on.
Late apex the right had sweeper before the tunnel so you can get good speed through the tunnel.
The kink after the tunnel is absolutely key to making it work. In the dip out of the tunnel I would lift and turn in at the same time. Once the nose is pointed towards the apex, go full throttle and hope it sticks.
Brake straight up the hill and late apex the last corner to get a strong run to the finish.
Btw, my time was 1.01 dead lol
In reply to Spoolpigeon:
Yeah after the total agony from the pikes peak one I just ran the other two for gold. I don't even think I maxed out the PP.
The RX7 one was very fun though. I think I used stock suspension but added moOOORRE POWAAAAHH!!
Spoolpigeon wrote:
The kink after the tunnel is absolutely key to making it work. In the dip out of the tunnel I would lift and turn in at the same time. Once the nose is pointed towards the apex, go full throttle and hope it sticks.
Yeah that seemed to me to be a key to the times but it seemed to be all about luck if I got it right or not. Once I had the time gap to get gold, made it through that kink and into the next left and just as I hit the brakes the car rotated and I slid up the hill and hit the wall. That was the last lap I did.
I have patiently racked up my login bonuses to 5 again. Should be hitting the new seasonals tonight (likely only in a mad dash for gold though) and a round of Redbull racing for the monies.
In reply to failboat:
The puegeot and rx7 ones are easy, so do those first. The Toyota one isn't bad, but may take a few laps, and the pikes peak car is a total PITA.
The arrive and drive seasonal cars have been awful lately.
What happened to the good old "drive around a bunch of stupid AI's in a limited number of laps" arrive and drive seasonals of GT5 days gone by? Those were always good for suitcases full of cash and weren't quite as frustrating/mind numbing as the TT's they've been turning out.
New Seasonals:
-
Land Rover/Range Rover Super Lap: Eiger Nordwand – W Trail - Gold: Cr.50,000 Silver: Cr.24,000 Bronze: Cr.18,000
-
Nissan Skyline GT-R (R32, R33, R34) Non-Racing Car Super Lap: Autumn Ring - Gold: Cr.65,000 Silver: Cr.29,000 Bronze: Cr.20,000
-
Shelby GT350 Super Lap: Willow Springs International Raceway - Gold: Cr.47,000 Silver: Cr.23,000 Bronze: Cr.15,000
GT350 is a stock, non-tuning race.
Dear GT6 Season Event Staff,
I'll admit it, I hate you guys. 600hp RWD race Lambos on Sports hard tires. Miatas on comfort tires. Stupid track/car combos. Etc., etc., etc.
So I log on today and find the new seasonal races, and all I can say is . . .
I am hoping the GT350 race will inspire someone to setup a Muscle car race for the series.
GT5 server will be permanently turned off at the end of the month. So they have a special Seasonal that wins you cars for GT6.
Senna content is coming on May 27th. Should be his F1 car, his racing kart, and reworked old versions (70's) of Monza and Brands Hatch (didn't realize this was where he did his infamous rain race from the back of the pack). The Monza track "might" have the banked corner (?), or maybe it just with no chicanes. Not sure what was different at Brands Hatch (probably not much)
BTW - Spool, you are slacking on the Seasonals. I have you by a good second in the French Megaine FWD thing. I think I am sitting in the 1500's in ranking in that! Figures, I would be fast in the cars I like the least. Argh. 
I'll see what I can do to correct that
