1 day ago in Articles
The Harvey brothers dominated autocross in an obsolete Datsun a couple decades ago.
Well! I sure never thought I would be posting here, I'm more of a 4 wheel person but! I inherited a 198X BMW R80RT that needs a little work and I thought you guys might be able to help lead me in the right direction.
From what I've been told it's a we think 1984.
My mom dropped it a couple times but it still ran. I heard right now it just needs a battery, gas drained and maybe the carbs rebuilt since it had the ethanol fuel sitting in it for 2 years. We believe the fuel lines were updated but we're not sure about everything else.
Anyway, I know my way around a car pretty well now... but then realized I'm not sure how to tell if this thing is in gear, and if it is, how to change it. From what I can tell the mechanics overall are pretty simple, but I'm going to need some guidance fixing the fairing, etc.
Hopefully I'll be able to get you guys some pictures.
So my question is... I don't even know! Where to start, I suppose. Are there any good guides for this bike? How do the fuel systems take to the new fuel?
I can tell you how to find out if it's in gear. Try to push it with the clutch out. If it moves easily, it's in neutral. If it doesn't, it's in gear. Most bikes have a neutral light as well that will tell you when the bike is in neutral when the key is on.
If it is in gear and you want to select neutral, press down on the shift lever a bunch of times to get it to first gear (the very bottom selection). Then, pull the shifter up a half-click until you just hear the transmission make a sound. You might have to rock the bike back and fourth a few times to get it to row through the gears.
Unless the fairings are in bad shape, I wouldn't worry about fixing them now. You will more than likely drop the bike yourself a few times--maybe even before you ride it (like, when moving it around the garage).
Buy a battery and try to start it. If it runs, great! If not, I'd start with the fuel tank. I tried to get an SV-650 started for a month with my brother. We tore it apart, cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, and even lit it on fire. Nothing worked. Finally, I took a simple vacuum-operated petcock valve off, hit it with a screw driver a few times, and got it to open. It was stuck shut. A $5.00 part was keeping fuel from reaching the entire fuel system. After that, it ran beautifully.
Start with the tank and work your way down from there. The tank is where all the fuel will congeal.
Stuc wrote: Well! I sure never thought I would be posting here, I'm more of a 4 wheel person .... Thanks, -Stu
Need a BMW? (car)
Here's a link to my local BMW Bike Shop; on the left side click "Parts Catalog". They have micro-fische like schematics of the bike and all of its components. This will give you an idea how things come apart or go together.
The 10th digit of the VIN corresponds to the model year (different, sometimes, from the date of manufacture), beginning in 1980 with the letter A, like so:
A = 1980, B = 1981, C = 1982, etc through Y = 2000; then 1 = 2001, etc.
For the record, the letters I, O and Q are never found in a VIN.
The last 7 digits are the BMW serial number, which you can use for parts lookup. (That Max BMW fiche above is the one I used daily as the parts manager at an independent BMW specialist. And Max BMW, in general, is a great shop, with a friendly and knowledgeable staff.)
On the headstock of your bike, there's also a VIN tag with a month/date of manufacture. BMW made lots of mid-model-year changes, so don't be surprised if you need to know that month/date combination to get the right part on occasion.
I highly recommend BMW factory parts, in the majority of cases. On average, they're not all that much more expensive than aftermarket (there are a few headscratchers, but plenty of stuff is surprisingly cheap, too), and you know they'll work. BMW is great about long-running support of its vehicles, so you'll be able to gte just about every little thing for your R80 direct from a dealer.
Couple of suggestions from experience dealing with airhead beemers that stood for a while:
I actually know everything there is to know about these. I'll admit it. I rode these things forever, even when I was roadracing real motorcycles; I worked for a BMW specific parts place years ago, and later ran the parts department and did vehicle sales for a BMW dealer. I was "The airhead boxer guy". In fact I only finally got the courage to sell my '83 R100CS I'd had for nearly 20 years last fall.
Feel free to email me at motomoron (at) yahoo (dot) com if you've got specific questions.
I'd start with a complete rebuild of both carbs, new fuel lines, and a couple disposible inline filters. Drain the tank, wash it out. Unless they're completely rusty they're usually OK. The petcocks and inline filters will usually catch most of the crap, and being big, dumb twins the idle jet orifices are pretty big compared to say, a modern 600 inline four which clogs with no provocation...
Nothing wrong with an old Beemer! Pics when its on the road!
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