Plus one on the Allen bolt at the bottom of the fork leg. When I did the forks on my XS, rather than buy a megabux Snap On socket I cut off a Allen wrench, then used an air impact and a 6 point 8mm socket. You need thoroughly clean the head of the bolt, set the Allen wrench in it and then tap it in as far as it will go with a hammer. If it's not fully in and square it will booger up the head of the bolt. You do not want to know how I learned this. Then an air impact will zip the bolt right out. It will have a copper washer, don't lose it!
But before you do all this, while the forks are still on the bike remove the top cap on each leg, this is much easier to do with the fork still on the bike. It holds the spring in place, as you loosen it when it gets to the end of the threads the spring's preload will try to throw the cap across the garage, so be ready. The cap will have very fine threads and when you put the forks back together you will have to push down against the spring and turn the cap at the same time. This means it will be very easy to cross thread on reassembly, so be very careful.
Once the Allen bolt at the bottom of the leg is removed, the upper chrome leg will pull right out along with the damper rod. The damper rod (#8 in 44dwarf's picture) is what the Allen bolt screwed into. Turn the leg upside down and the damper rod will drop out.
The seals are held in with snap rings (#14 in the picture). Remove the snap rings with either the snap ring pliers or, if it's the wire type snap rings as the picture shows, an o ring pick. Then remove the metal washer on top of the seal (not shown in the picture but I've seen them on about every fork I have ever disassembled), then use a real live seal puller to yank the seal out. It will save you much grief.
Generally speaking, stock fork springs are way too soft. They will also 'sag' over time. Progressive Suspension makes good springs, don't waste your time on the 'progressively wound' or dual rate springs, go for a straight rate. Springs can be changed without disassembling the fork, so if your budget doesn't stretch to stiffer springs at the moment you can make spacers out of aluminum or steel tube that will add some preload. This won't make the forks any stiffer but it will ride higher in the stroke which can be a good thing.
The damper rod will have holes drilled in its sides, these are oil passages. Make sure they are clear. In fact, sometimes it's a good thing to braze up the bottom holes, this will leave nice soft damping in the first couple of inches of the stroke but make it much stiffer toward the bottom which can help with fork dive under braking.
As the Haynes manuals say, 'assembly is the reverse of disassembly'. 
I find it easiest to put the damper rods etc back in the tubes, put the springs in, then put the cap back on top first, but not all the way tight. This will hold the damper rod in place while you thread the bottom Allen bolt back in. An air impact will make this easier but don't go overboard. In fact I prefer a 3/8' 'butterfly' impact for this kind of work, it's less prone to over torque stuff.
Once everything is back together, you need to add fork oil. On old bikes like this, I personally like thick oil such as a 30 wt. It gives a much more controlled feel. The newfangled 2 1/2 wt, 5 wt, etc are just too thin for the old damper rod style forks. It's important that you get the right amount and have it be equal in both forks. A plastic baby bottle is marked in oz, CC's and milliliters, makes it easy to do that right. If you add some extra (maybe 5-7cc per leg), it will also help with stiffening the damping at full compression which is a good thing.
