Ruckus running rough/not starting: Sprockets forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

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Nov. 17, 2011 10:14 a.m. Domsz06 None

Hello everyone!

Have tried to get help over on TR, and no one is helping, maybesomeon here can give me some insight.

I picked up a 2007 ruck with 156 miles on it two weeks ago. It hasn't been run in 2-3 years, but it's brand freaking new.

So here is the issue, I can get it to run, sometimes, but it's very hard to get to idle, and run. I drove it for like 2 miles but it's very sluggish, hard to start, have to pay attention to get it to stay running etc. Anyone have any suggestions on what to check or try? Here is a list of what I have done:

[LIST=1] Emptied gas tank and installed new gas and fuel filter[/LIST]

[LIST=2]Checked spark plug, yes have spark [/LIST]

[LIST=3]Checked fuel pump, have fuel flowing, and also tried a different fuel pump still no help[/LIST]

[LIST=4]Replaced stator with different stator, still same results[/LIST]

[LIST=5]Totally cleaned carb and all jets[/LIST]

So after all of this I can get it to run all the time if I spray ether into the engine, but it will really rev up and run weird. I know the battery is shot, and have a new one ordered, it came in yesterday but couldn't get it out of the post office box, so will replace that today. Can anyone think of anything else to try before I just start buying parts (carb) etc?

Thanks in advance!!
Nov. 17, 2011 10:31 p.m. jefmed2 New Reader

not to familiar with ruck but other scooters , If air filter assy is not on it could run like that for some reason also have you checked for vacuume leaks, if carb has a diaphram check for pin holes, you can also check voltage at coil while running . Thats all i can think of right now but keep us posted i'm sure someone here can come up with something
Nov. 18, 2011 5:49 a.m. Woody SuperDork

You may need to take another look at the carb. Some of them got cosmoline in them during manufacturing and carb disassembly was the only way to rectify it. Mine was a PITA to start sometimes. It was better with the kicker. Remember that they have an electric fuel pump. If it doesn't fire after a few tries, you may need to turn the key off and then on again to get more fuel in there.
Nov. 18, 2011 6:18 a.m. Graefin10 HalfDork

I don't know anything about a Rukus but I bought a Ninja 250 a while back that ran about like you're talking about and it turned out that the fuel tank petcock leaked even in the off position causing the carbs to flood consequently leaking fuel into the cylinder which then ran into the crankcase. The result was inadequate lubrication which ruined the cylinder an shortly after it began to knock. So, does the Ruckus have a petcock. The mileage doesen't matter. It wouldn't take long to do the above damage.
Nov. 18, 2011 7:39 a.m. Woody SuperDork

Graefin10 wrote: So, does the Ruckus have a petcock.

No. The carb is above the fuel tank, thus the electric fuel pump.
Nov. 18, 2011 7:49 a.m. 1988RedT2 SuperDork

What kind of choke does the carb have? My son's dirt bike was wicked hard to start. I finally pulled the carb off and checked it out. Turns out the choke plate was spring loaded and wasn't closing at all even though the lever was in the choke position. I cleaned it up and left the little plastic cover off the choke shaft so I could verify that it was closing. That and the carb was gummed up pretty good. Starts easily and runs fine now.
Nov. 18, 2011 8:48 a.m. Woody SuperDork

I've got a factory shop manual for the Ruckus 2003-2008 with the supplement for 2009 that I was going to put on eBay. $25 plus shipping if you're interested. I paid at least twice that for it and it is like new.
Nov. 18, 2011 10:31 a.m. 44Dwarf Dork

Gummy old fuel is really hard to get out of carbs.

Back in the day of good chemicals Gunk TM used to sell HYDRO-SEAL cleaner. it was a soak type carb cleaner that you put a layer of water on top to keep it from evaporiting...Nasty stuff but it worked. Today you can't get it.

Best sub I've come up with will sound strange and well it is in fact i didn't believe it until i tried it for myself. Hit up a yard sale grab a 1 quart or bigger cook pot. hit the dollar store get the twin quart size package of PINE-SOL get original pine-sol not the store brand. Strip carb down to just the body and soak in the pine-sol. You can warn it on a hot plate to speed it up but its not really needed soak a day or too if doing it cold. (warm also makes it thiner so it quickly penetrates) Then wash in warm tap water blow out ALL passages with Compressed air and oil any o-rings and shafts (like float pin) with Marvel or 2 stroke oil during re-assembly.
Nov. 18, 2011 10:41 a.m. 1988RedT2 SuperDork

In reply to 44Dwarf:

I've had good luck with the gunk carb cleaner in gallon cans with the perforated parts bucket. I guess you can still get it. Been a couple years since I bought it last. Let it soak overnight and most of the gum is gone.