christobevii3
christobevii3 New Reader
5/6/17 5:04 p.m.

Hello,

I have a 2016 veloster turbo with coilovers. I have it slightly toe out with around -1.8 camber and the whiteline caster bushings.

I am noticing now under braking a slight "wiggle" in the wheel. Is this from parts under braking becoming more toed out? I want to check the alignment again when I get time and the coilover adjustments (think the shop has the height between not very even).

Anywhere else I should be checking?

Thanks

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
5/8/17 9:03 a.m.

Front toe out is sketchy on the street, makes most cars feel very darty especially in braking. Also, high negative camber plays havoc with migration of contact patch center over irregularities, i.e. Instantaneous changes in scrub radius which also make the car feel very darty in braking.

ProDarwin
ProDarwin PowerDork
5/8/17 9:27 a.m.

Are your caster bushings oriented the same way? A caster difference from one side to the other will definitely make things goofy under braking.

christobevii3
christobevii3 New Reader
5/9/17 10:13 p.m.

Caster bushings are ok, checked past weekend. May just be a hair off on alignment and need to bring the toe in. Thanks guys. I'll play with it this weekend some and make it less aggressive. Going from driving 99.9% straight to 3% wheel right under braking to drive straight is not ideal in a high speed situation.

Camber isn't too negative but will recheck to make sure one side didn't slip

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
5/10/17 12:04 p.m.
christobevii3 wrote: Camber isn't too negative but will recheck to make sure one side didn't slip

Depends on tire stiffness and road irregularities. -1.8 deg might be OK for one tire and too much for another.

jfryjfry
jfryjfry Reader
5/12/17 2:08 a.m.

Check for proper operation of calipers (pistons and sliders) and pad wear.

christobevii3
christobevii3 New Reader
5/15/17 10:12 a.m.

Ok, went through things this weekend. I think one of the slotted bolts slipped from the paint wearing off on one of the struts. I'll go back through this week and get them re-adjusted to -1.5. They both are at the same currently but the camber curves would be messed up due to one requiring top adjustment to match the other.

Any guides on how to check the calipers for even pressure? It is a 2016 in Louisiana so I'm doubting rust and the disc brakes should auto adjust in theory if a pad is further out.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
5/15/17 10:26 a.m.

In reply to christobevii3:

If we were in Vegas, the bookmakers would love for you to bet on uneven line pressures.

christobevii3
christobevii3 New Reader
5/15/17 4:28 p.m.

I'm betting I have a pad sticking. The pads were cut poorly when I put them in and had to file them. Probably need to be filed more.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair UltimaDork
5/15/17 10:12 p.m.
christobevii3 wrote: I'm betting I have a pad sticking. The pads were cut poorly when I put them in and had to file them. Probably need to be filed more.

I've been seeing that a lot in the last couple years. On my last 3 brake jobs I've had to file the pad wars to get them installed and sliding properly.

christobevii3
christobevii3 New Reader
5/16/17 11:44 a.m.

Exactly what it was! Passenger inner pad was hanging until heavy braking. Took the hand sander to it, regreased, and all good now. Still need to find an accurate camber gauge. The bubble one seems to be all over the place and the digital one isn't any better.

Any suggestions on what to use?

christobevii3
christobevii3 New Reader
5/20/17 2:05 p.m.

Arghh still doing it and looks like the right front lower control arm bushing for caster was put in poorly by the shop I had install. Think they are off by about 20% so crushing under braking.

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