boxedfox
boxedfox New Reader
8/30/17 9:54 p.m.

Turns out there is a right way to get those annoying Honda Brake Rotors screws out without losing your mind. So I turned it into a video how-to:

Any and all feedback appreciated: Good, bad, or troll-like.

noddaz
noddaz SuperDork
9/2/17 7:12 p.m.

I have used impact drivers with success.

sobe_death
sobe_death Dork
10/27/17 2:59 p.m.

Being somehow inextricably tied to Hondas, my two most valuable tool purchases were: Impact driver and a set of JIS screwdrivers.  My life turned around when I started using JIS tools on the motorcycles

APEowner
APEowner HalfDork
10/27/17 5:10 p.m.

Great information and there are many people that will benefit from that video.  My only complaint is the same one I have about most videos of that type.  It's way too long and tries to cover to much.  If it's about removing the Honda brake rotor screws show the correct bit and driver and that's it.  If you want to talk about different fastener heads then do a fastener head video.

jharry3
jharry3 Reader
10/27/17 5:44 p.m.

I have an electric impact wrench.   I just used the proper Phillips head socket and they came right out, no problem. 

I did use Never Seize putting them back.  

They would not budge using just the screwdriver, it was the impact wrench that jolted them free.

tester
tester New Reader
10/28/17 10:12 a.m.

You can improve your chances with normal Phillips drivers by grinding the tip down so the bit will engage more deeply into the screw head. The Phillips drivers are designed to a lower torque than the JIS form drivers. 

 

AClockworkGarage
AClockworkGarage HalfDork
10/30/17 12:44 p.m.

I've always dealt with this problem by selling the car and buying one that wasn't designed by someone who hates me. But your technique is cool too.

Nugi
Nugi New Reader
1/6/18 7:19 a.m.

Hondas seldom use Phillips, its almost always JIS. If in doubt, JIS usually have a dot on the head. 

Also, who the berk puts the rotor screws back in?!? I always deleted them first chance. Scketchy rotors that needed the extra alignment usually had holes imperfectly drilled anyway. Hondas fit over the hub so there is no nonsesne keeping them lined up like many other cars. If the wheels are on, so are the rotors. Never an issue. 

Have I been missing something the last 20 years running them like such? I have even seen other GRM threads where volvo owners talk about them being for factory assy, and usless thereafter, besides sales of impact screwdrivers and impact rated JIS bits. 

boxedfox
boxedfox New Reader
1/9/18 12:09 a.m.

Whoa. Didn't realize there were so many comments on this thread. Thanks for the feedback! I've got a lot to keep in mind when I make my next video.

Unfortunately I am not affiliated with the company that makes that screwdriver. If I was smart I probably could have asked them for some commission beforehand. But I'm just a random guy who has a penchant for buying weird crap from the internet and occasionally finding something that works. That said I really like that screwdriver. I actually went out and bought the JIS #1 and #2 versions of that screwdriver because I liked the feel of it so much. Still haven't found a use for the #1 driver, but when I find a tiny Japanese screw I will be ready for it.

As far as why you should or shouldn't put the rotor screws back in, I haven't found a good answer yet. I did find that my rear rotors on my racecar tend to not develop as much runout when I use the screws, but can't explain why. Mechanically it doesn't make sense because the wheel should be holding everything tight to the rotor and tiny amount of clamping force that the screws generate shouldn't do anything. I'm using Centric blanks too: Ok, they're not top shelf rotors but I like to think they're one step above the bottom shelf.

einy
einy HalfDork
1/16/18 4:34 p.m.

Putting the screw back in keeps the back face if the rotor in contact with the front face if the hub.  If the screw is not used, the rotor and hub likely separate slightly every time you take the wheel off, possibly allowing a small amount of accumulated debris to get in between the two normally mating faces, causing runout.  If you take your wheels off often (likely on a racecar), you have more chances to ger debris in this area, and cause rotor runout over time.  That’s my rationale for putting the screw back in, with anti-seize on it for easy future removal with my el-cheapo but effective JIS bit impact driver.

Bobcougarzillameister
Bobcougarzillameister MegaDork
1/16/18 4:51 p.m.

I remember a balance/vibration issue solved by putting the rotor screws back in on something..... damn, I'm slipping. I want to say it was the 04-08 TL but not certain. They'd get a light steering wheel vibration at highway speeds (as dumb as it sounds). All the guys in the shop used the impact screwdriver thingy. put it in the slot, hit it with a hammer. done. 

GTXVette
GTXVette Dork
1/20/18 6:48 a.m.

Also Any time you think or Know the Screw or Bolt will be Stuck And using an Impact driver Whack it to the Tight First. And Anti Seize is your Friend. As Hot as a Rotor Gets it will Bake Grease to a Crud that does NOT want to release.

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