Does price matter when it comes to choosing a torque wrench?

J.G.
By J.G. Pasterjak
Dec 17, 2023 | Torque Wrench | Posted in Shop Work , Buyer's Guides , Features | From the Aug. 2019 issue | Never miss an article

Photography by J.G. Pasterjak

[Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2019 issue of Grassroots Motorsports.]

That click–so familiar to anyone who’s spent time getting their hands dirty in the garage. That satisfying little pulse in your hand that signals a job well done. It’s a welcome piece of audible and tactile feedback to enthusiasts everywhere.

But how good is your torque wrench? And …

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Comments
Floating Doc
Floating Doc GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
3/2/20 9:42 a.m.

I'm using a 1/2 inch Craftsman click to torque wrench that I bought new in 1992 for a head swap on my 302 Ford. I also have the smaller inch-pound, 3/8 inch version of the same wrench, but it's hardly ever been used.

I don't do much wrenching any more, so I only use it for the frequent wheel changes on my ES Miata (up to several times per month).

I don't know how off my actual torque values are, especially with an adaptor for the 3/8 inch socket that I use, but I figure that at least they're probably all consistent when I tighten down my wheel nuts.

I asked a Snap On driver/dealer about calibration of my torque wrench, he would hardly speak to me.

I have one of the hammer store electric adaptors, but have never used it for anything.

I'd like to have these tested, but not sure how to proceed. I looked into sending them off for calibration several years ago, but it was pretty costly, so I didn't follow through. Suggestions?

BTW, it's pretty sad that Craftsman is so dead that they weren't even in the test.

L5wolvesf
L5wolvesf Reader
3/2/20 10:11 a.m.

I have a HF 1/2 in torque wrench I got in the 80s (1980s). I've used it most often for wheels (at home and at tracks) but have done engines too. I've had the calibration checked a few times and it has never varied by much. It has been done by these guys who are all over the US IIRC.

 

Correction - just in the west

https://www.nationalcalibration.com/w/

Vigo
Vigo MegaDork
3/2/20 10:51 a.m.

I'll honestly click a $20 HF torque wrench on the most expensive thing you can find me. I think people's trust of higher-priced torque wrenches and distrust of cheaper ones are EQUALLY unfounded. I don't trust ANY of them to be any better than 5% anyway. And that's..completely adequate. It's more like $10 with a coupon, too! 

Floating Doc
Floating Doc GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
3/2/20 11:01 a.m.

Vigo's post does bring up a relevant question: is within 5% adequate?

I used that same Craftsman torque wrench for an engine swap and a couple of head swaps on the same car later on.

There's lots of variables when it comes to blown head gaskets, but I went through a few on the next engine.

L5wolvesf
L5wolvesf Reader
3/2/20 11:16 a.m.
Floating Doc said:

Vigo's post does bring up a relevant question: is within 5% adequate?

Good question

https://www.pcsllctn.com/5-reasons-why-your-torque-wrench-needs-to-be-calibrated/ 

Trent
Trent PowerDork
3/2/20 11:29 a.m.

Most tool trucks have a self service torque wrench testers on board. If you know any one who works at a place they regularly stop they should be able to test them for you. 

I had the trusty Harbor Freight 1/2" drive torque wrench for years. After I had 3 head gaskets fail on my mini i tested it on the Snap-on truck and when set to 100ft/lbs it was clicking at 70.  I chucked it in the scrap metal bin.

I suppose I should replace it but I just borrow the shop techangle for now.

AnthonyGS
AnthonyGS GRM+ Memberand Dork
3/2/20 2:33 p.m.

In a previous life I was a nuclear mechanic for the US Navy.  As part of my continuing education, I went to instrument and tool calibration school.  I also did torque testing for our torque wrenches and torqued a few bolts and nuts in my day.  The nuclear Navy has a huge distrust of click type (micrometer) torque wrenches and strongly prefers dial indicating ones or even beam types.

Other advice is to always use a wrench so that you torque value falls between 15-85% of the wrenches range.  It also needs a valid calibration sticker.  
 

And yes 5% is fine.  I'd be more worried about calibration than brand.  A calibrated cheapo is better than an uncalibrated expensive tool.  

The only torque wrenches I've ever bought that had calibration data are the two CDI torque wrenches I got last year.  I shoukd probably get a torque tester or find one near me that I can use on e a year or so.

Vigo
Vigo MegaDork
3/2/20 10:52 p.m.

is within 5% adequate?

Possibly a more relevant question. Do you think manufacturers would subject themselves to the ludicrous suffering they would endure if they built pretty much any fastened assembly within 5% torque of failure and then sent it out into the world of real life dealership techs?

I'm sure there are plenty of cases when 5% isn't enough. But they don't pay auto techs enough for 5% to not be enough. 

AnthonyGS
AnthonyGS GRM+ Memberand Dork
3/3/20 12:20 a.m.

In reply to Vigo :

I understand what you are saying but +/- 5% of torque is way different than a 5% failure rate.  A torque rating is specified in order to generate a sufficient clamping force.  It's also spec'd knowing the fastener can take all of that and then some by a pre determined safety factor.  In typical mechanical engineering that safety factor is 2.0, or 100% more than the designed load of the mechanical item.  Civil engineering may use even higher safety factors.  In the previous case, the problem arose when the torque wrench was reading 30% low.  That sounds pretty legitimate to me. 

Getting the exact torque also depends on cleanliness, specified lubrication, etc.  How many people do you know that chase threads and use the correct lubricant before torquing fasteners?  This alone can cause for more than +/- 5% torque.  I don't know many auto techs that get paid enough to go to this kind of trouble.  Some do, but most do not. 

For example most lug nuts are torqued 75-100 ft-lb in my experience but that's a clean stud and fresh lug nut.  How many people do you see torquing beat up rusty studs with mangled nuts?  I don't chase threads myself, but do check them for cleanliness and keep wire brushes handy.  If I'm torquing head bolts though, I go to a lot of trouble to chase, clean threads, and use specified lubricant (in some cases it is none or dry).  In the nuclear navy they had a special lubricant that was used on almost all fasteners and required to get the correct spec.  It also prevented galling.  Once galling of your fasteners starts, you will never get to the correct clamping load no matter how well your torque wrench is calibrated. 

I actually got irritated during study for my mechanical engineering degree, because so many engineers don't understand nuts and bolts..... If you want to be beat down with the details the mechanical engineer's handbook  is heavy reading, but good reading. 

Needless to say there is a lot more to the puzzle than having a torque wrench and getting a torque reading within plus or minus a given percentage on that wrench.  Thanks goodness most stuff is just overdesigned to compensate. 

 

ChrisLS8
ChrisLS8 New Reader
3/3/20 1:21 a.m.

I have a HF 3/8 and 1/2 clickers, a CDI flex 3/8, and Quinn digital 1/2. 

The quinn is made by Eclatorq same as the Kobalt, made in Taiwan and I like it. Also does angle if you need it to. 

 

All of em except the quinn have rebuilt motors with zero problems. 

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