Tech Tips: 2014–’18 Chevrolet Corvette

Photograph Courtesy Chevrolet

[Editor's Note: This article originally ran in the October 2018 Issue of Grassroots Motorsports. Some information may be different today.]

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Sam Strano
Strano Performance Parts

stranoparts.com
(814) 849-3450

I just picked up a 2017 1LT with a Z07 that happens to be an automatic. I have a whopping 795 miles on mine. A lot of what needs to be done on one of these cars depends on what suspension setup it’s on, as they come with some very different shocks, springs and bars.

My biggest gripe, on a Z07 car, anyway, is a toss-up between the huge rear bar and the magnetic shock calibrations. In Sport mode, it rides the bumps better in an autocross, but it slaloms less well, too.

I am starting my development on my shop car, and one of the first changes was to play with different rear bars. Base C7s don’t have a rear bar at all. Some versions have a smaller rear bar, and Z07s have a huge one. Lots of bushing changes, too, even on cars that share bar sizes.

I do not think the shock absorber tuning boxes are at a point of reliability yet, and you have to know a lot about shocks to not mess that up.

There was a spate of cars that blew up early, supposedly from clogged oil filters. It is imperative to change the oil at or even before 500 miles.

The automatics have a surge in eighth gear. It seems to stem from not enough line pressure to the converter.

Automatic cars, I’m told, can melt the valves in the exhaust that close for Active Fuel Management–the V4 mode–when used heavily on track. They can be wired open and that only makes it sound odd when in the V4 mode, but if they melt, you get CELs.

The Z07s use carbon ceramic rotors which are very costly, and you don’t want to ding or chip them, or get things like tire dressing or other chemicals on them.

Out of the box these are amazing cars to track and autocross, but when looking for the best speed, tweaks to the alignment, shocks and brakes are just as valuable as with any other car. The rear alignment on these is much more involved than on a C5 or C6, and particularly frustrating at times since it has two cams on the lower arm which has a caster effect, which in turn has a roll steer effect. And the toe link is an eccentric, not a standard tie rod as before–and that actually sucks as it’s fickle and can slip.

Low-buck mods? Lots of them, but mostly cosmetic-type things. I have done lots of little things to make the car easier to keep clean or less prone to scratches, etc. Performance-wise it would depend on the model; I can’t make a blanket statement as you have some cars with setups that literally have no rear sway bar, others with 31mm rear bars, and just adding one to a no-bar car can be trouble without a matching front, etc. Like anything, it will take time to develop all the answers, and this is made far more complex thanks to all the different permutations of the C7 that can exist.

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Comments
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nderwater
nderwater UltimaDork
6/5/20 10:39 a.m.

No offense to Sam, but the big takeaway from this Tech Tips article seems to be "It's Complicated"

Shaun
Shaun Dork
6/5/20 7:07 p.m.

A C6 sounds like a more pleasant virtual owning experience!

GCrites80s
GCrites80s HalfDork
6/6/20 11:26 a.m.

Seems like a modded C5 is still the best for motorsport all these years later. C6 and C7 may be faster stock and better road cars but are hard to develop and have a lot of issues that pop up when driven hard for a season.

skincare21
skincare21
6/6/20 11:46 a.m.

Corvette is one hell of a car.

https://nicciskincare.com

GCrites80s
GCrites80s HalfDork
6/6/20 12:20 p.m.

^For you to canoe on!

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