I have a 1991 mustang notch back four cylinder. I purchased the car in Bumblesnort Vermont where it lived it's life in mud. I think I paid $1700 for the car. I purchased a set of rims for $80 off craigslist. My goal for the car was to rally cross it. I purchased a new fan and some brake parts from rock auto. Those receipts I can probably find, or at least look up on rock auto.
The outside of the car has some pretty good rust, like any good vintage fox body. My welding skills and equipment are not at the place where I could weld in patches. I saw some nice spot riveted rust repairs with license plates, so I thought I would try and do something similar that would give the car "character". The interior of the car is in remarkably good shape for it's age. I thought this would be fun for concourse judging; when you get in the car you are surprised at how nice the interior is compared with the outside. For some of the rust, I would have to get creative with paint.
The largest problem with this car is the suspension is SHOT. I had such a horrible time replacing one of the front springs that I gave up. I now want to replace them with coil overs, as the install is much easier. The cheapest I have found them is $500 bucks new. I am going to start to scour the internet for used coil overs.
My goal for the challenge is simply to get there, finish and get home. I can put together a build book, but I have lost the bill of sale and Maine doesn't charge sales tax based on a bill of sale, so my original registration doesn't help.
I just missed a $500 ranger that would have been a fun build, there is still that chance I would build another car. All things being equal, I would love to put the time into the mustang.
So, how does this work?
Big thanks!
Sounds like your suspension upgrades need to be $200ish or less.
Replace worn suspension with chunks of solid steel, gain stiffness, improve handling, save money, win challenge.
If you look long enough, I think you'll find some suspension that will fit in budget. Also, $1700 for a foxbody is very believable, so it should be easy to get FMV established on it. Rules have details on exactly how to extablish FMV.
Can you sell the stock wheels to recoup?
The best bet however is to look for a large package of parts that includes the coilovers you want. Like maybe a foxbody guy is downsizing garages. Spend $1000 on a parts lot that includes 12 fenders, a fiberglass cowl hood, 4 aluminum intakes, a NOS kit, a coilover kit, 1 used engine, a spare AOD trans, and a vape-shaped shift knob, and sell it piecemeal to recoup the full $1000 and keep the suspension and NOS kit for 'budget neutral'.
Then you will still have $300 for a set of drag slicks.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
It realy comes out budget neutral that way?
I thought it had to be prorated and that it wouldnt end up at 0?
I may have been calculating wrong and have a lot more room in budget than expected.
In reply to Crazier :
You can recoup or prorate any given lot of related parts (related parts meaning you bought many but only used some on your build).
Generally it is better to recoup - until you hit the recoup limit of $1000.
Say I buy 12 used circle track wheels (all basically the same) for $300. I could prorate and use 4 in my budget for $100 budget hit and zero recoup used. But if I have $300 or more remaining recoup, selling two sets of 4 for $150 each set would put $300 in budget and $300 recouped. Which route is best is up to your specific situation.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
So, its a balancing act really. And you can always start thinking of it as recoupe and if advantageous later then swap it to prorated.
One really good deal, with one really good part could change your entire build if you budget it right
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
The stock wheels are pretty awful, and I am planning on continuing to use them for studded snow tires. If you could see the car, you would think I paid too much for it. I am on the hunt for some ebay coil overs, etc. I would run it on what it has, but the suspension is so bad, I couldn't see a road trip in it.
I just missed a $500 ford ranger. I'm keeping my eyes open for a ranger as I'd like a small truck. It is a long shot right now for me, but I'd love to attend.
Thanks Guys
Crazier said:
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
One really good deal, with one really good part could change your entire build if you budget it right
exactly. I started one build at $1000 and immediately sold $700 and $300 parts leaving me with a free car and a ton of stuff to trade from.
In reply to Patrick (Forum Supporter) :
Yeah... If I sell the rest of the parts I dont need from my $1000 parts car id have $300 over the recoup limit, While still keeping the entire drivetrain and fuel system. Traded the trans for a set of injectors.
I sat on that trans for a year waiting for a good trade.
In reply to Crazier :
Understanding the purchase/recoup/trade rules is paramount and having patience is an asset. I get receipts for everything I buy, whether I intend to use it for the Challenge car, or not. Ex: I bought some wheels for $80, thinking they would get used only if I couldn't find anything cheaper and wider. I happen on an ad for a kid who is selling 4 Diamond wheels ,with two street tires and two M&H Racemaster slicks for $400 or "trade me some street wheels". I offer up the $80 set, or another $50 set, and he has an offer from someone else offering a set of Rota wheels. The last thing I message him before going to bed is"You have multiple choice. We might be able to do a 3 way deal. Let me know". The next morning he messages and says he's not interested in a 3 way, but he wants my $80 wheels and then the kicker...."How about I sweeten the deal with a little cash". !!!!! I asked him to define "a little cash" and he offers me an additional $100 , along with his wheels and tires ! So I end up with zero budget hit, an $80 recoup, $20 in beer money and 4 wheels and tires to run down the drag strip. Compound that with a $40 set of wheels for the autocross and 4 budget exempt autocross tires and my entire hit for two complete sets of wheels and tires will be $40 and $80 recoup. You have to understand the accounting rules and use them.
