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Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
9/22/20 9:53 a.m.

In reply to mhisstc :

It would be a lot easier to swap into a foxbody, more room between the towers, a rear sump chasis, and no shock tower braces to work around reduce what needs to be done quite a bit(you could use a stock intake manifold without issue). Speaking of 3.7L swapped Capris..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHKGgkUcYJ0

Not sure what ever happened to this car, but it sure did sound mean.

 

 

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
10/31/20 7:23 p.m.

 

Starting to look like...something...now

pres589 (djronnebaum)
pres589 (djronnebaum) PowerDork
10/31/20 7:28 p.m.

Are there images that should be showing up with your latest post to the thread?

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
10/31/20 7:50 p.m.

In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :

I guess it didnt show? will upload instead.

 

pres589 (djronnebaum)
pres589 (djronnebaum) PowerDork
10/31/20 7:51 p.m.

Looks like it's coming together.

californiamilleghia
californiamilleghia SuperDork
10/31/20 7:53 p.m.

Neat swap . 

are there any intakes to put a holley carb on it ?

Or maybe a pair of 3 barrel Webers off a 911 Porsche :)

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
10/31/20 8:37 p.m.

Actually I think Tom Morana does make a 4 barrel holley pattern manifold...but I am sure its pretty terrible for low end power, kinda just a big plenum sitting on the ports, runner length tends to matter.

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
11/23/20 11:42 a.m.

 

We don't need no stinking wiring diagram....or that is what I tell myself, since I have to wire the entire car from scratch.

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
11/29/20 7:16 p.m.

 

Signs of life....think I wired the CLT sensor backward though...it shouldn't be 180 degrees...the MAT is reading correctly at 60ish degrees...a few more hours of wiring and it will be ready to fire up for the first time....the TPS is working well, haven't calibrated it yet though, so it reads 2.3% bottomed out and something like 87% maxed out...the important thing though is that the engine is now communicating with Megasquirt...a very faint light at the end of the tunnel.

bruinsfan27
bruinsfan27
1/8/21 8:10 a.m.

Hello, I have started a similar project with my sons. We have sourced a pretty solid 1965 coupe... we also just sourced a 2011 V6 3.7 with an automatic. 

Our thoughts are this resto-mod with rusty patina... we are using the stock wiring with all the stock harnesses and ecu... 

I have a few question tho.

1. Those motor mounts are they your own creation? Would you be willing to give me the specs?

2. The front suspension... what are you running? I'm not sure which way we are going yet and i'm looking for ideas.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Btw super sick build!! I love it so far! 

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
1/12/21 2:40 p.m.

In reply to bruinsfan27 :

Yes, I fabbed the motor mounts. I can't remember exactly where I got the bushing-type mounts(Speedway Motors possibly? Or E-bay?) I had them sitting on the shelf for a few years before I started this project. The idea is essentially the same as those "universal" LS swap mounts like you see here:

 

but with the holes meant to fit your engine of choice on one side and the stock shock tower rail on the other. The bushing was 2 pieces per side, and I did have to trim down one of the pieces very slightly(and the sleeve) to match the width of the shock tower rail....you can probably find a more exact fitting sleeve/bushing kit, I just used what I had on the shelf....and do keep in mind, this type of mount does not have a lot of rubber, so there is more potential vibration with "bushing" type than the "biscuit" type.

 

As for the front suspension...right now its 100% stock I6 stuff...but the plan is to run Street or Track coilovers. To be clear, to make the MTX transmission fit, I had to graft in the transmission tunnel from a 2010 Mustang...and I doubt the ATX transmission is any smaller. Also...I had to use a custom front-sump pan to clear the drag link and I had to fab headers. The entire swap would be far easier for someone using a Mustang-II type front suspension(or some other suspension that uses a front-steer rack and pinion and removes the shock towers), it would allow the engine to drop down possibly far enough not to have to cut the stock tunnel away entirely, allow the use of factory exhaust manifolds, and factory oil pan. You will also run into issues with the strut tower braces not clearing the factory intake manifold....that will take some creativity to solve(you definately do NOT want to leave the strut tower braces out, the shock towers WILL sag if you do.

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
1/12/21 2:43 p.m.

P.S. I am working on a few settings tweaks, it wants to start, but not there just yet:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSXboekPVMs

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
1/19/21 1:00 a.m.

 

Now to work on adding some o2 sensors so I can actually start tuning

WOOT!

Shavarsh
Shavarsh New Reader
1/19/21 3:52 p.m.

Awesome, really enjoying this thread.

bruinsfan27
bruinsfan27 New Reader
1/23/21 10:11 a.m.

In reply to Wicked93gs :

Thanks for the info I will grab those and Mod those! 

I also grabbed the trans tunnel so that shouldn't be a problem...

And Yes I agree I will brace up the front end a bunch... Strut brace etc...

I'm sure I will message you again for more ideas if your willing to offer them...

Thanks again and Talk soon

67vert
67vert
1/24/21 6:29 p.m.

In reply to bruinsfan27 : I have been thinking of getting a wrecked low mileage 2012 3.7L Cpe for this swap. I'm rebuilding a 67 convertible (orig i6). I've done all the rust repair and metal replacement. It's definitely stronger than new. I was planning on swapping all the required factory wiring. It has the manual 6sp trans in the car, but i prob want to put an auto behind it. I wonder if anyone has used the 2012 seats in the old mustangs? The donor car has all the deluxe leather interior and would look nice and more comfortable than those factory low back seats. I'd love to hear ideas or opinions. I plan on using the street or track coilovers as well and consider using epas steering.

CLynn85
CLynn85 HalfDork
1/24/21 6:31 p.m.

Glad to see progress here. In typical GRM fashion, I love how this isn't just a "I'm stabbing a modern V6 in a classic mustang", it's "I'm taking a modern V6 and making it WAY COOLER WITH INDIVIDUAL THROTTLE BODIES and then stabbing it in a classic Mustang"!

autocomman
autocomman New Reader
1/24/21 7:33 p.m.

Nice, I dog the use of the 3.7.  I'm curious to see how the power curve is with the itb setup and lack of cam phasing.  Either way the lightness you added with that motor will make a pretty sweet driver.  Doing ac?  How fancy is it gonna be when it's done

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
1/25/21 6:39 p.m.

In reply to autocomman :

There will be no lack of cam phasing, I do have the phasers unplugged currently, but that is only until I can decode the camshaft trigger wheels and gain control of them(the trigger wheels are very similar in design to 350/370z trigger wheels, so chances are some slight coding changes will do the trick. A/C is a "someday" project...the reason being the shock towers interfere with stock compressor placement...meaning I will have to figure a way to drop the compressor a lot lower to be able to clear...so for now it will just be alternator for accesories. The nice thing about vintage cars is that they are live-able without A/C with vent windows and vents, etc.

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
1/25/21 7:35 p.m.
CLynn85 said:

Glad to see progress here. In typical GRM fashion, I love how this isn't just a "I'm stabbing a modern V6 in a classic mustang", it's "I'm taking a modern V6 and making it WAY COOLER WITH INSANELY OVERLY COMPLICATED INDIVIDUAL THROTTLE BODIES and then stabbing it in a classic Mustang"!

There, fixed it for you. That stupid ITB system has so many hours in it already, the only reason I actually went through the effort was that so my shock tower bracing would fit correctly without compromising bends, its all in the name of structural integrity...lol

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
1/30/21 11:04 p.m.

 

 

 

Tim to get started on the cooling system...cut out the radiator support to fit a '98 mustang aftermarket radiator/shroud/fans. I chose this one because I wanted something I could tuck under the top of the support and that was an expansion tank design. So I grabbed this cheap thing off of ebay for $175 or so, it will do the trick. Cut down some 4" aluminum angle I had sitting around to make a bracket for the expansion tank(ignore the ancient radiator cap on there, only thing I had on my shelf that fit it). I do still have to make some upper and lower brackets to hold it and reinforce the notched areas, but that is no big deal....maybe I can find some good weatherstripping for the support-to-core seal down at Lowes...surely they have something that will work.

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
2/2/21 11:17 a.m.

 

Fabbed up these for the upper mounts yesterday, lowers still need to wait until I find some type of weatherstrip for the core-to-support area. Everything at Lowes was stick-on...need a weatherstrip that is pinch-on or I will just end up with a a hose split length-wise instead...but it will still need more give than your typical rubber hose...maybe I should order some silicone hose specific for the application.

MadScientistMatt
MadScientistMatt UltimaDork
2/3/21 7:08 a.m.

Two wire CLT sensors don't really have a backwards and forwards. If it's still stuck at 180 degrees, try back probing both sides with everything installed and wired up, and check the voltage to ground off both pins - let me know what you find.

Wicked93gs
Wicked93gs Reader
2/3/21 2:29 p.m.

In reply to MadScientistMatt :

It actually ended up being a loose connector...wiggling it around seems to have corrected it...might add a couple inches of wiring to it just to take a bit of stress off the wires there.

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