1970 Datsun Roadster, And it begins... getting it running, the the first step is to .....

The second round of parts has arrived.  The differential is first on the list to rebuild, the Quafe LSD will not be on this round parts installed at this time.  I have to buy it, first.

I did get the Falken tires installed, 195 60 14's.  They are a new set of 615K's.  These I have been storing for a number of years, the miata is gone, they will do just fine on the Datsun.   

Before the LSD, I have to to focus on the Distributor with the correct early 7.5 timing cam and instead of points, a Pertronix electronic ignition systems.  Then the vented front brake rotor kit with Volvo calipers. Yes, running and stopping, first.

And the seats, and the.......

Datsun310Guy said:

In reply to noddaz :

I think in this era there were a bunch of 2-seater roadsters so the Datsun didn't stand out too much.   When I first saw the Miata at the 1989 Chicago Auto Show it felt like except for the Alfa ragtop there weren't any low cost 2-seaters.  

You said Alfa, and low cost, in the same sentience! But I do agree with your point entirely. When I started seeing them in the early 90's, I was glad to see the. Someone was trying to revive MG name with convertible CRX's, but that didnt take off.. then the Miata came out it was sorta all by itself.

And BTW, great car and post!

The car was running, but not well.  Cleaning everything is just the start.  Starting with the intake track, the carbon build up is everywhere.

This is the base of the dash pot.

This is the inside of the bell.  They should not look like this, the cleaning is tedious.

The refreshing of the rear end starts with its removal from the car.

A pressure wash and cleaning.

Then a coat of paint to make it look fresh.

The car has led a sheltered life, this is a much easier process with parts that are not rusted into a solid mass.

As with many things, engineering specs do change over time.  This project has brought to light a number of those updates and it begs the question, what is stock?

The leaking pinion seal started the refresh of the axle assembly, so I will start with that.  What is being sold now is an upgrade to what has proven to  be a design that must have leaked from inception.  Might be a design flaw or a material issue, they only have one of the "new"ones to install in a "RnR" situation.  Having worked for a government contractor providing aero space parts in the late '80's to very early '90's, I witnessed first hand the transition to what was then a revolution of  government purchasing of things that could not fail, based on design specs that where put in place during the early '40's.  It was during my tenure that the government decided that they were going to require that the spare parts that we had been suppling for years had to be to print.  With current specs.

That leads to bearings.  In the early times, when need out weighed production ability, people would earn a living grading how a bearings spun.  Yep, ABEC was the standard and there were people that lived their days with what we now know as fidget spinners to asses and grade bearings that were used in stuff that could not fail.  Then in some cases the graded ABEC bearings had to be lubed again to a MIL spec with the proper grease by a certified tech and with all the proper paperwork they were sold to our government. 

Yes, it was a grand way for our government to buy things and keep lots of people employed.  My car will have axle shaft bearings installed that are shielded, lubed with grease that was developed for the wheel bearings of Navy air craft that landed on carriers, that could not fail.  The stuff was good enough for my Dad in the A-4's and  A-6's he flew during the era that my car was produced.  To bad this stuff was not available to the public back in the '60's,  my old Koto bearings would still be good.  

Yes,  it is a good thing that the government only buys thing to print.  That is how we learn to apply the grease. 

Reassembly of the axle, continues.  First the pinion seal, is taken care of.

Next, the axle shafts.

In reply to jr02518 :

Im digging this! 

And loving the way you're telling the story. 

I turned 12 the year this car was produced, it is bring up lots of memories of stuff that I though I had let go of, years ago.  

One might notice the subtle up grade to a "not" rubber brake line for the diff.  I have made this change to cars that I have worked on, for years.  That and the fresh wheel cylinders that will go on the freshly painted backing plates with the proper roadster brake shoes.  The core charge one is required to pay for the roadster parts is steep.  I lucked out on the drums.  They will clean up and still be usable. Although still available, they are very pricey.

That reality is also reflected in what is and is not rebuilt on this phase of the car refresh.  The leaf springs will not be coming out at this time.  No, the car will just be a "driver". 

And the third round of parts is ordered, lots of gaskets and hoses.  The reality of bringing a car back to "driver condition" is daunting,  Not spending the money to have a concourse car, is becoming that much easier.  I might know the difference, but when I am driving the car, it will not matter.

Then, the latest round of parts is now, on hand.   The hoses and gaskets will cure the fluid leaks.  Yea right.  I can hope.  The transmission on these cars loads its gears and shifting parts from an access on the bottom, yes it looks like an automatic.  Replacing the weepings gasket will give me a view of moving parts that might, require a future rebuild or not.  Yes, I hope "not".  Again, I can only ...

With the car running, it settles into a nice idle.  Tipping open the throttle, the issues begin.  One of the smog related "fix's" of this motor has been removed.  The "smog" air pump had frozen and was not going to be repaired.  It has been saved, just in case the next owner is inclined to have a "stock" car.

The air injection system has also been removed and the ports, sealed. 

The distributor is next, turns out the car has to finesse the distribution of vacuum and "spark" to allow it to pass the requirements of 1970.  The cars ran better as a pre 1968,  so ..... I found a shop that rebuilds your distributor and instead of points they incorporate a later model Nissan electronic system in their place.  But the more important part of the rebuild involves the "cam gear" and replacing the "smog" parts with pre smog internals that encourage the delivery of power.  Under a load. Because the "breaker" plate is refreshed.  That should  enhance the vacuum advance of spark delivery.

We can only...

As with lots of projects, one learns that buying parts allows one to buy more parts, some times.  In my case it is the correct rear wheel cylinders that has opened "Pandora's Box".  If you allow your self to think about how much parts for low production cars can cost,  sometimes you shop for cheeper alternatives.  In the distant past, someone did.

The previous owner purchased this car in 1977 and sold it in 2020.  Only driven to 136600 miles. When the rear end was pulled to refresh and end the oil leaks, lots of new "correct" parts were sourced.  The correct 3/4 bore wheel cylinder can be purchased and when you try to install them on your car, they  might not snug up on the hydraulic lines on your car.  Because your car has the wrong pitch on the lines.

Looks like the leaking rear wheel cylinders that were taken off the car were not an OEM, equivalent.  Oh, they have a 3/4 bore.  But are a metric thread pitch at the hydraulic pipe connector, not the correct 24 pitch.  Changing the line for the incorrect wheel cylinder solved a pricing/sourcing issue. For some one else. 

But now all is well because I can buy, the correct parts.  They are with the incoming order.  Do not look up how much these wheel cylinders cost. And the new brake lines, of course in stainless steel (my choise).  I did not buy a Ferrari, I did not......

jr02518 said:

During the beginning of a project like this it feels a bit over whelming.  We you realize just about everything needs a bit of attention.  One of the systems that looks to be in good order, electrical.  Yes, every thing as to the lights and turn signals is working.  The car is ready to prove that in this instance, it will not be "British".

In one instance it might be, it is seeping oil.  Starting with the differential.  So the rear end is being dropped out of the car, pictures to follow and the cleaning/rebuilding will begin.

Now I will admit the goal of this adventure is to end up with a car to compete in our local SCCA Autocross series.  On a local basis we have a very active and competitive group that run in a "Historic" class for thees older cars.  The SCCA HCR and HCS have been reviewed and at this point not adopted.  So on this build, the car will be limited to "HS" preparation.  To that end, no LSD for the third member.  Turn's out a Quaife third member is available for the car, but the class will not let me spend the money, at this time.

Got to have rules.

 

 

Wow. There is a Historic Class for autocross now? I need to bring my 914 out again. The last time I ran it there was only one car older and that 67 Camaro had a crate motor and many other new parts. 

Check with your local SCCA Chapter, and remember "Street" is not stock.  Embrace the HCS/HCR guide lines, have fun!

Again, on a local basis we have Historic 1 and Historic 2.  My 1981 BMW 320 and your 914 would be competing in Hist 2. 

Yes, pictures to follow.  The differential is complete and back in the car.  Does anyone have a "fix" for frozen grease fittings?  This car has the hardware to lube every conceivable joint and union of parts.  If they accept grease, under pressure.  Mine have decided they need some sort of persuasion. Any ideas?

In a true tradition of older cars with what might be "cork" gaskets, that are designed to weep and provide a coating of stuff that keeps things from rusting, more. Then at the expense of turning rubber parts, like engine and transmission mounts into another form of goo, they require that they be replaced so that the motor no longer wants to rock its self into the radiator.  In my case, I started with the oil pan.  On the new/old pan that does not have evidence of having been used as a jacking point.  

One a side note, the oil that came out of the car had a heavy smell of gas.  Time to start thinking about the next steps the side drafts are going to require. Oh, joy. 

jr02518 said:

 Does anyone have a "fix" for frozen grease fittings?  This car has the hardware to lube every conceivable joint and union of parts.  If they accept grease, under pressure.  Mine have decided they need some sort of persuasion. Any ideas?

buy a bag of new zerk fittings from local NAPA and replace them all? I think they're about 49c apiece.

EDIT: I don't know why I felt compelled to put a price on them. I honestly have no idea how much they cost.

EDIT AGAIN: because my brain couldn't let go:

Thank you, time to locate an assortment of "zerk" fittings.

Now, picture time.

A fresh coat of paint does not mean "restored".  Yes, some new parts.

The car has a fresh set of KYB's, as purchased.  I am not sure they will be a long tem solution.  The Falken tires in this shot will be on the car when it is on the ground, 195/60 14's.          

Next, the goo that use to be oil.

Yes, the motor will be cleaned, with the pan on the motor.

I will take a picture of the damage on this pan, after it is cleaner.  Yes, that is a new sway bar in this picture. The factory 17mm bar is coming off.

The "new" gasket is thicker and made from a newer material composition.  The baffle in the pan is stock.

In reply to 03Panther :

As bad as British Leyland's dealer service network was in the late 60s Datsun's was worse, at least east of the Rockies.

In reply to purplepeopleeater :

Boy was that ever true! Localized good spots, but we did a terrific trade as an independent repair shop willing to work on them. They could sell 5 times as many as they could service incompetently. 

New Zerks help. Sometimes the problem is underneath them. The grease in whatever channel its in hardens and block new grease from entering. If you can remove the fitting you can use a pick and some WD40 to clean out the old stuff. Ideally you disassemble whatever should have grease, clean it thoroughly and reinstall. 
Edit: Nice project! I like these a lot and one day hope to swap a motorcycle engine into one. What a riot

Over the weekend a number of little parts of this project have been started and then completed.  Starting with cleaning and chasing the wheel studs, then getting the rear tires and rims on the car.  For fitment and pictures.

Yes, the center bore on these Ansen rims is really as big as it looks.  The rims are an ancient set of mags produced in Southern California by one of the firms that is now, American Mags.  The plan, to clean them and come up with something that will fill the center bore.

Next, the freshened oil pan is on the car.

Then behind the oil pan, you can just make out the access panel for the transmission. The clutch slave, you can see it on the passenger side of the motor, is on the list to be replaced.  The hose for this will be upgraded to a stainless braided type.

With the cover removed, on the bottom, you are looking into the transmission.  Why is this making me feel like I am looking inside of the chest of the "Tin Man".   Looks like he has been hitting the oil can, hard.

It seems that oil is escaping from every gasket on the motor.  The oil filter mounting boss is yet another source, now fixed.

Next to the oil filter is a hard line that supplies oil to the distributor.  It's details like this that remind me that this car was built in a time when labor was sometimes "artist".  Where in the design, build and install process do you cost it out? 

At the other end of that delicate oil line is an automotive dinosaur, a smog system compromised relic that ignited fuel that had lead in it.  Yep, that old.

Just under the rotor is were the magic and issues are concentrated.   The spinning rotor is distributing the spark stored in the shinny thing bolted to the body, it looks new in this case.  The part being used as a handle, that looks as old as the grease on everything else on the car, is the vacuum advance canister.  That attaches to the plate that the points are attached to that rubs on the shaft that spins the rotor.  That plate, with the points bolted onto it, is not fixed inside the housing, no it has to move to react to how much air is going thru the intake system.

Then you have to add the mandate of "smog" requirements, if your car is a 1968 or newer.  That compromises how well this unit works.

Now in this shot you can just make out the opportunity to provide a "fix" for some of the issues built into this part of the car.  It involves that old saying that includes "something old and something new".  The distributor is on it's way from the left coast to the right coast for just such a fix.

The before,

Then, the after.

Yes, a bit of paint touch up is going to happen.  It feels good to have a completed element back under the car.  The first of many, next are the seats.