Well second try on this build. I started the build 2 years ago but school got in the way. Now I have moved in with some friends and have a shop in the backyard now.
Here is the car as it sat about 2 weeks ago:
Since these were taken I removed the head, the rest of the massive speaker box and pulled the remaining interior. Ill upload some pics of this later. Did find out that the motor thats in it is toast so Ill be putting an L28 in it.
Nice another 73! Doing FI or carb?
In reply to crankwalk:
Carbs at first then ITBs
Well in a sense, twin SUs are two ITB's. 
Are you talking about triples on it?
In reply to crankwalk:
Yup. Plan is to use a triple manifold with Borla induction throttle bodies.
Got the l28 taken apart. Going to put a set of flat top pistons in it along with a reground stock cam. Should be fun.
You are a brave individual.
I can dig it!
Woot, Woot!
In reply to NOHOME:
Ill take that as a compliment. It looks better (worse?) now. Has nothing left inside.
Quick update on progress as of 2 weeks ago:
Got the interior taken out all the way
Ended up having to take the fenders off due to rust
Ended up having the head CC'd and found out that its not completely berkeleyed so it will be going back on and hopefully I can run the L24 for a little while.
Cool project. How are you dealing with the rust?
In reply to jimbob_racing:
Ill be replacing the floors and frame rails completely. Everything else will be patched in. Then im either going to bed-line or Por15 the whole lower part of the car.
Small update: No pics for this one yet but the car has no rear suspension now and is up on jackstand. Motor/tranny will be pulled this week hopefully.
How fast will you be moving on this? How fast will you want to put the suspension back in?
The reason I ask is that I have a full suspension with Energy Suspension bushings, shortened (1 1/2")struts, adjustable shocks, coil over conversion springs, camber/caster plates and the front is repainted. My diff is supposed to be LSD, but it's been apart so long I've forgotten if it really is.
I intend to replace the whole suspension in mine with the front & rear subframes from an S2000, but I cannot begin the work till after Christmas. In theory it fits as I've sat the body on the subframes with wide wheels and nothing looks like a deal breaker although the complete, rust free rear inside decking has to be cut out as well as the rear strut towers. I'd post pics but you can only hotlink and they aren't hosted anywhere.
In reply to carguy123:
Plan is to have the shell stripped all the way down within the next week or two. Rust repair will probably take around 2 months then reassembly can begin.
Fitzauto wrote: In reply to carguy123: Plan is to have the shell stripped all the way down within the next week or two. Rust repair will probably take around 2 months then reassembly can begin.
Is it a bad thing that I just put a note in my calendar to check on the bodywork progress as of Feb 7 2017?
Looking forward to the pics.Huge fan of the 240
In reply to NOHOME:
Ill have to keep with that deadline now
Thanksgiving Break Update:
Got the engine and front suspension out plus started pulling everything else from the bay as I plan on "shaving" it.
Of course pics are needed so here they are:
Trans tunnel looks like an abandoned tunnel according to SWMBO
Question for those who have replaced floor pans: should I try to go with something close to stock thickness or get something thicker?
Fitzauto wrote: Question for those who have replaced floor pans: should I try to go with something close to stock thickness or get something thicker?
Thicker might be easier to weld. Are you buying floorpans, or building?
Same thickness is easiest to weld.
Ill be making my own.
You'll need to log in to post.
