Cool project! This really makes me want to tinker around with a Fox Body.
Cool project! This really makes me want to tinker around with a Fox Body.
ClemSparks wrote: While I'm at it...anybody know what's going on with the thermostat housing in this photo (also posted above)?I'm wondering if it might be some sort of electrolysis or such. If I used teflon paste on the threads of my thermostatic fan switch (the threads you see screwed into the top of the thermostat housing) would that be problematic? I don't remember if I did. It was a new thermostat housing when I put this together. It's starting to look ratty FAST.
I like this build, I've always wanted a foxbody so it's fun living it vicariously through you. As for the thermostat I've always associated that green scuzz with a slight leak, or seep, but honestly never known if there was a real answer. Cheap castings to blame perhaps?
Ah yes, fox bodies have lots of brake parts that interchange from many different cars. Some are better than others. I probably did a year of research on them before I just went with the Ford rear disc kit and cobra stuff up front. If I remember correctly I also went with the MM front lines and some other rears.
ClemSparks wrote: Necessary fire just in case:
Fixed that for you.
If you have to kill something, it's always necessary to kill it with FIRE!
In reply to Sky_Render:
They really are pretty fun and easy to work on. They are getting hard to find in good shape though (as noted by mine that's not in particularly good shape).
Gunchsta wrote:ClemSparks wrote: While I'm at it...anybody know what's going on with the thermostat housing in this photo (also posted above)? I'm wondering if it might be some sort of electrolysis or such. If I used teflon paste on the threads of my thermostatic fan switch (the threads you see screwed into the top of the thermostat housing) would that be problematic? I don't remember if I did. It was a new thermostat housing when I put this together. It's starting to look ratty FAST.I like this build, I've always wanted a foxbody so it's fun living it vicariously through you. As for the thermostat I've always associated that green scuzz with a slight leak, or seep, but honestly never known if there was a real answer. Cheap castings to blame perhaps?
I'm glad you enjoy it! I've been following your truck buildup. I have a few Chevy trucks in the fold myself. I expect you're right about the thermostat housing. There's clearly baked-on coolant there. I'll just monitor the situation and see how it goes.
We actually had intake gaskets for this at work today. I was a little surprised because this car is "old" by most standards. It's not particularly old to me. I'm a '75 model, myself. Anyway...that means I got the surfaces cleaned up tonight and started putting stuff back together on the top of the engine.
Nice fat bead of silicone this time...I'm not taking any chances 
Once installed, this inspires confidence:
Then I continued to reinstall the carburetor, throttle linkage, air cleaner, coil, fuel line, bypass hose, etc.
I just need to get the engine back to top-dead-center on #1 and I can reinstall the distributor and connect a few wires and I'll be back to where I was before I tackled this oil leak.
Alright! The distributor is back in, engine timed, and attention paid to a few other little details.
When you are really used to working with Small Block Chevies...old habits are hard to break. It took WAY too many tries to get the distributor lined up correctly. The process went like this:
Tomorrow my brake hoses and lugnuts are bound to show up. If I can get some tires mounted up, I should be about ready for an alignment.
I got some tires mounted up yesterday. Brake hoses went on today and the teenage daughters helped me bleed brakes.
I believe it's time to load up on the trailer and take it into town for an alignment.
If anybody has any preferred fox body alignment specs for "spirited driving up twisty roads" do chime in.
I was thinking maybe:
1 degree negative Camber
3-4 degrees Caster
1/4 - 1/2 degree toe in
I might go a bit further with the static camber, maybe up to -2 degrees. I'd try for as much caster as you can get, probably around 5 degrees.
Oh...and one of the parts cars left today on someone else's trailer. I got what I needed off of it, sold some other stuff and it was time for it to go. I have to say, I was amply impressed with the Harbor Freight 12K winch the guy used to pull it onto the trailer.
I still have the 8.8 rear from this car. It's a 2.73 gearset, so that's pretty much useless. But I figured it would be worth rebuilding with good gears and eventually putting under the mustang to have have the correct fox-body width. The front k-member from this car is ready to blast and paint if I decide to use it in the Fairmont project.
I pulled the car out of the barn yesterday for the first time in a couple of months. Here it is for the first time with the 5 lug wheels on all 4 corners.
Yes, that's my checklist still taped to the passenger side of the winshield
Zero the toe out. Between -1.5 and -2.0 camber. Max the caster. Dial back the caster if it tramlines too much.
In reply to ClemSparks:
It looks badass on those wheels. 
Good choice on the wheels. The car is coming along nicely. I run -3 camber, max caster and 0 toe, but I'd recommend 1/16 toe in and ~ -2 camber.
I just picked up an another 8.8 for my car. I'm going to do a 31 spline rebuild for mine. I have a spare diff from an 03 cobra to go with new gears, bearings and axles.
In reply to ClemSparks:
I like the stance on the FRPP C springs. What are the spring rates?
Lookin good!
I seem to remember reading earlier that it was sitting all kitty wompus on you- did the new suspension square that all up? It looks like it's pretty even in the most recent picture.
In reply to Tillerman:
I had those same springs on a Fox I failed to turn into a Rally car. They are 650 lb/in front 200-300 lb/in rear.
I want to see this beast! Also, better get off the Horsey Pad lest you anger the wife!
Gunchsta wrote: Lookin good! I seem to remember reading earlier that it was sitting all kitty wompus on you- did the new suspension square that all up? It looks like it's pretty even in the most recent picture.
Yeah, it was wonky before. A quasiquantitative evaluation seems to indicate it's more or less square now. Similar wheel gaps as measured by finger widths on a quick walk-around. That's a relief.
The front springs I pulled out were painted red under the grime...so that means they weren't stock. It's anybody's guess what was going on.
singleslammer wrote: I want to see this beast! Also, better get off the Horsey Pad lest you anger the wife!
I was going to say, "come on over...you know where it is." But...I took it to the alignment shop tonight. So you'll have to come see it when it gets back. Or better yet, we'll take it for a spin.
singleslammer wrote: I want to see this beast! Also, better get off the Horsey Pad lest you anger the wife!
I'm pretty sure a Mustang should be allowed on the horse track.
I did a little timing and carburetor "tuning" today. I think I could use some pointers from anyone who's better than me at this.
With the engine up to temperature (and how!...the thermo switch I bought for the electric fan does not appear to be operational) I disconnected/plugged the vacuum advance hose and set the base timing to 12 degrees BTDC. That just seems to be a renowned good/safe "starting place" for initial timing. If anyone knows a good method to determine what is the best initial timing (vacuum, etc) feel free to chime in here.
I did check the total advance and it went WAY up past 30 BTDC (the extent of the markings on the harmonic balancer) and I'd guess/extrapolate that it went past 40 (which seemed alarming) per the factory timing marks.
Then to the carburetor. This is a 4160 Holley vacuum secondary. Holley says you just bolt the thing on and go. But it smells RICH. I alternated between the throttle plate idle stop screw and the idle mixture screws until I had it idling at ~800 rpm (per the factory tach) and the highest vacuum I could get (~17 inches Hg).
I took a test drive and it did seem to behave well. No audible detonation.
The thing that got me playing with the tuning in the first place, however, is the fact that is SMELLS like it's running very rich. I fully acknowledge the qualitative nature of "it smells very rich." But it doesn't seem right. I don't have a wideband (or whatever) O2 tuning system.
I think I'm more or less on the right track to tuning this...but as mentioned, if you have any pointers, please fire away!
In reply to ClemSparks:
Have you pulled any of the plugs to see how they look, or if you can smell raw gas?
Also, toss a wideband on it and know exactly what it's doing.
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