1985 BMW 318 Stage Rally Build - 1988 Porsche 924S Street Build - Sequoia Build

Ian F said:

In reply to irish44j :

Maybe cut out an oval including the fill port, rotate 180 and re-weld? 

My guess is the FSM method for removing the trailing arms is to drop the sub-frame, which is probably why the issue you're running into would never occur to the designers. 

no doubt about it. BMW likes to do things that aren't an issue when you're charging hourly shop fees lol.

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Wrapping up a few things so I can do other stuff this weekend and not be under the car....

First order of business was to check all my bolts on the rear end, snug up the axle nut, and bleed the recently-disconnected right rear brake caliper.

With the car on the ground, the difference is apparent in terms of toe and camber. Feels like forever since the rear wheels were more or less straight up.

So went from 2.5* negative to under 1* and no toe. That should substantially help out the handling of this car and make things more predictable (and grippy) on the gravel.

In addition, got in some new street tires for the car. For years I've used some old Star Specs for street driving, and in a size that is shorter than I like (for looks or for gearing) at 195/55/15, which makes for some high revs on the highway with the G240. Now that I actually have some torque, I really don't want those high revs any more lol.

Plus, the Star Specs are sketchy in these early and late-season events in the W.Va. mountains where it's often sub-freezing roads and maybe some snow. I've been towing to events recently but plan to get back to driving the car there since the roads to Panthera are a lot of fun in a car and a lot of big-ass hills that make towing tedious.

So, Tire Rack deal, plus a $50 gift card, and all told just a bit over $300 for a set of all-seasons to may door. They're not super high-performance tires (grand touring), but that's ok. Oddly, they seem to have very similar tread pattern to the BFG Comp 2 A/S I have on the Porsche. Anyhow, will get them mounted up on my Euroweaves - these are 205/60/15 by the way

And last of all, got the drill out and made some mount holes for the skidplate and got it all set up. I have a few modifications I want to do to further strengthen things for stage, but for rallycross it'll be fine, and it'll be a while before the next stage rally

Kind of scraped up my new paint while getting it all set up lol. It looks lower in this shot than it is in reality, though it IS lower than with the M42 by about an inch or so. I'll recover that with taller tires when i move all my rally wheels to 15s.

The plate is lower, but I left more pan clearance than i had with the M42. I plan to eventually add a longitudinal brace bar from the front to rear mount bars in order to further strengthen things and prevent the bar from bowing in.

ome little stuff....

First, with the e30 more or less "there" for the moment, I took a break to do a bit of Porsche work, You may recall over the winter I replaced the OEM-style headlights with some e-code H4 Hellas. But with the extra wattage, that's a strain on the OEM wiring. So, started putting together a standalone wiring harness with relays. Not the cleanest install for them moment, but I have a plan to clean up/hide all these relays and wiring when I get around to it. First I want to check functionality. 

In other news, I'm always happy when the Porsche is in the garage. The fresh leather seats still have that fresh leather smell, so my whole garage smells like it when the car is in there lol.

Meanwhile, for the e30 I got some new street tires. My street tires (mounted on old Euroweaves) for about 7 years have been some old Star Specs. Not only are they highly sketchy in early/late season drives in the mountains where it's cold and sometimes wintry, but they are also a smallish sidewall (originally bought for autocross gearing) at 195/55/15.

So with Tire Rack now giving free shipping, and a $50 BFG gift card offer, I ordered some new all-seasons. They're not particularly high performance (though the treads look a heck of a lot like the Comp 2's on the Porsche/GTI), as they have a softish sidewall, but that's ok since these are primarily for driving to events and general cruising, where a little extra comfort won't be a bad thing in this car.

Took them over to Shawn's (moxnix's) house as he graciously mounted them up for me. Shawn's house, if you're not following his thread, would put most Mazda dealers to shame with something like 6 Miatas, a Protege, an RX-7 all sitting in the driveway or nearby (plus an MR2, van/trailer, and an old Impreza) - did I miss any?

Also, saw "Dirty Snow" (the rallycross impreza that has seen many events)'s infamous broken steely sitting in the basement

Anyhow, the tires are some BFG grand touring "sport" tires in 205/60/15 - so a lot taller than the Star Specs. Better highway gearing for the long drives to rallycrosses and they look a bit less silly on a car that sits on such tall suspension lol.

Notable in these pics you can see how vertical the rear wheels are now with the new trailing arms. That should make a substantial difference in handling going forward - at least in terms of consistency and rotation under braking. 

(also, I sold the old Star Specs on FB marketplace in 20 minutes for $50, so that's nice). 

So that's it for the moment. A few other little things going on, but mostly working on tweaking a few things and some other projects...

Reasons I like Amazon.....convenience. Yesterday decided to upgrade the Porsche's headlight harness. But I didn't have new H4 bulb connectors (the old ones were cracking and nasty) and was short on colored wires. On this car I'm *trying* to mostly keep factory wiring colors since I use too many colors on the rally car and that makes diagnosing stuff or figuring out wiring a pain. So, $30 later, both wires and plugs showed up at my door today after ordering at 11pm last night.

So, don't really have pics of me doing wiring (plus, those would be really boring)...but bottom line is I finished it all up, and nothing caught on fire when I turned the lights on, so that's good. They are noticeably brighter than before as well. Won't get a chance to test them tonight since the driveway is full of other cars and I don't feel like playing valet, but they're definitely brighter and now peace of mind that I won't burn up the harness if I take some night trips.

Plus the e-code H4 Hellas have an infinitely better pattern than the original sealed beams.

yeah I mean, can't really tell much in a pic, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

I also had to troubleshoot the intermittent headlight outage (just the passenger side) the e30 has been having recently. After unwrapping some wiring and stuff, looks like the spade connector for the ground wire was loose. So, tightened up the connector and re-wrapped it and now the headlight works fine again. Simple pleasures. 

Nothing going on with the e30 today - still waiting for my next little project to arrive in the mail. So did something that I never got around to before but think it's time to get done on the Porsche: rebuild the throttle body. As I mentioned before, still chasing around an occasional stall issue, eliminating possible problems. One possible culprit is a vacuum leak, especially in the throttle body. Apparently the 944 TB (and probably others from that era) are known to develop large leaks at the seals as the get older. A while back I bought the Arnworx kit with the intent of doing it but never did, until I found the littel envelope it came in while cleaning up the workbench. So, let's do it.

Man, taking the TB of the Porsche is a pain in the ass compared to an e30 thanks to having "hidden" lower hoses and connectors that are hard to get to. Anyhow, once that was done, started taking things apart.

The kit basically replaces the o-rings at both ends of the shaft (with new c-clips and a few other new parts), as well as the o-ring on the throttle position sensor and on a few other things. Upon taking out the old o-rings (the ones on the shaft are hidden behind some bearings and are tough to get to), I can see why. The shaft o-rings literally disintegrated into tiny pieces falling on my floor as I tried to get them out

So yeah, guess they weren't sealing much of anything. The other O-rings weren't much better. So, got that stuff in, cleaned things up and installed. Didn't get a chance to drive it, but hoping getting rid of vacuum leaks in the TB will make the car run better.

The small projects can be so satisfying :)

95maxrider said:

The small projects can be so satisfying :)

Started the car today and the difference is immediate....immediate start on the first crank, and a much more consistent and smooth idel. Well worth it :)

irish44j said:

Started the car today and the difference is immediate....immediate start on the first crank, and a much more consistent and smooth idel. Well worth it :)

Nice work. I might need to look into if there's something similar going on with my e30. It acts like it has a vacuum leak, but for the life of me I can't track it down. I've tried spraying break cleaner at everything that may be leaking and haven't found it. I'm wondering if it's the throttle body itself. 

Little project today. As mentioned earlier, my in-tank low pressure pump broke. It's getting pretty hard to find working used ones, and new ones range from $150 to 250 depending on where you look.

To get me over at the last event I just eliminated it and let the HP pump work a bit harder. Seemed to work fine, but would still rather have it "like the factory wanted it" just to help the life of the HP pump.

This isn't "my" idea, apparently it's pretty popular in the e28 groups at least if not e30 groups, but the grassroots solution is RockAuto, of course. But not BMW parts - you get the in-tank LP (lifter) pump from a 1973-1976 Chevy Vega (and probably other GMs of that era, I'd guess). $15 new.

It's the right size, though doesn't have the bracket. Comes with a new in-tank pre-filter as well. To fit it up, you really just have to put some ring terminals on the original wires and they use small nut attachments to the pump.

One thing is the pump doesn't specify polarity of the terminals, so had to do a bench test to see which way was pumping fuel out vs. in. My 6-year-old helped me..

A couple hose clamps or zipties secure it to the original assembly, oriented to leave space for the fuel level sender

Anyhow, installed it and it seems to work fine. The HP pump's buzz seems substantially quieter now as well (though the buzz at all kind of annoys me since it's a pretty new Bosch pump). So, some peace of mind at very least.

Oh hi. some stuff.

First, the guy who bought the M42 and shipped it to texas sent me a video of it in his 318is and running (whew!). It's kind of funny seeing my engine in another person's car

Then, this is kind of funny. I've been getting GRM and CM magazines for over a decade now, and just have too many. So I put about a decade's worth of many-times-read issues in a big box and put them up on FB Marketplace wiht the price "$10 or whatever interesting thing you want to trade for them." Usually when I do this I get a box of hose clamps, or 5 packs of zipties or some random tools. This time, the guy brought me this:

So yeah, now you knwo what a decade of GRM is worth! He's sending the mags to his brother, who is a soldier deployed someplace (gonna be a heavy package), so maybe he'll pass them around and GRM will get some new fans. 

Then I took last night off car work and went to a Metal show up in Baltimore. Children of Bodom and Swallow the Sun. Good stuff

Also from FB marketplace, some dude had an old 944, mostly stripped, up for sale. I messaged him and asked if he wanted to sell the washer reservoir (mine leaks thanks to a crack that I was not able to repair)

Anyhowk, he says sure so I rolled out to the countryside to get it. Car didn't have much of use on it, but oddly the guy said a buddy had given it to him free after meeting a deer, but he wasn't much for non-GM cars.

Apparently, his interest is in Chevy Citations (??) really... So apparently he has two of a special "Z11" model that was the souped-up one. And one of his has a big supercharger sitting on top of the 3800. Car looked like it had been sitting but he wanted to fire it up for me. Fired right up and when he revved it, it sounded excellent....that whine. Said he used to daily it and loved how sleeper it was. Also apparently has a custom LSD with like 700lbs of lockup, since he used to drag race it. Go figure. Haven't seen one of these in decades...

Oddly enough, I menioned rallying and he said they used to be rallied. And he's right:

Anyhow, got the reservoir, and the pump, and a non-broken cap assembly (pretty rare to find). It had a few inches of fluid inside it, so at least it wasn't leaking where mine was (at the very bottom), so that's good. 

Cleaned up nice, so I installed it. 

And proceeded to fill it up with a gallon of washer fluid. Looking forward to it not dripping.

Hmm....then I come back in 20 minutes and there's blue washer fluid all over the floor....wtf. So I used the pump to spray the remaining ~gallon back into the bottle (well, thtat was convenient at least). 

Turns out there is a crack at the seam about 6" up on the side, so any fluid over that level woudl leak out. Dammmmmmmit. Took it back out and got some maritime epoxy out, went to work on over-sealing the entire area. Then re-installed. We'll see if that works. I put the fluid back in and no drips so far. 

No car work tonight, time for some GoT :)

In reply to irish44j :

I've driven one of those Citations, an X-11 no less, in LeMons.  Absolute dumpsterfire of a car.

So, while I've been trailering the car for the last few events, I really would prefer to just drive it there whenever possible, since mountain roads are way more fun when not pulling a big trailer with an SUV. Now that I'm comfortable with the new engine, I expect to start driving the car to and from events again (except two-day events, where having a 2nd vehicle is convenient).

Because of the cage, the car is somewhat inconvenient for hauling a lot of gear, so I have the little tire trailer, which works fine. But I'm kind of tired of using the trailer. Again, less fun with it in the mountains and stuff, would just as well just drive the car there on its own (plus, it gets so little use I'd just as well just sell it and the hitch to make a bit of cash for other stuff).

So, in a move that totally makes no sense, since it will cost money to do, I'm building a roof rack specifically to carry stuff like tires. Also because roof racks are cool, and I want to build something just for fun. Now, I could just buy a Thule or Yakima setup (I can get one for a discount from my ski shop), but that's no fun, and those sitt really high over the roof. I want something lower-profile, kind of like what I have on the Sequoia (also home-built). 

A bit of inspiration from the old rack on my Triumph GT6, which had a gutter-mount rack that had little screws through the gutter to bolt it down (vice using a "reverse clamp" like Thule/Yakima does). Anyhow, it's something to do. So I got online and orderd up some steel tubing (16ga) and a few other steel pieces (1/4" x 2" flat plate, and some small round tubing).

After some measuring and sketching, got to work today.

The 1/4" plate cut into 5" sections, which will be my four legs. Thick so they fit right into the gutter with just a bit of play. Then, basically a square (tacked on the car to keep it level and straight). 

So, here's where I am now. I'm deciding on my inside bar arrangement to place them both for support and in order to have them a place to allow me to best locate/strap down four tires (and/or other stuff). Once I place the crossbars, the intent is to cover the whole thing with the lightweight chicken coop flooring (farm-tek) that I used on the Sequoia.

Will also probably fab up some kind of mount for a fairing or something, we'll see. 

Will it get removed for rallies? 

In reply to java230 :

Definitely. I'm making it to be easy to remove in about 5 minutes . This is for logistics only :)

continued with the rack project today after a stop at home depot for a couple extra pieces of bar. I went with a design that would allow me to carry a variety of things, including 2 or 4 tires depending on what I need for rallycross conditions.

With the basic design done I wanted to fit it to double-check, and figure out where I'd want tires on it so I could make some integrated tie-down eyes. 

So I decided to make some flush-mount tiedown eyes. Usually eye-bolts would work fine, but just in case I ever want to put something flat up there, figured might as well make it a bit more seamless. I decided to locate them directly under the middle of where a 4-wheel set would sit, enabling a number of variations. yeah, I know I could just wrap the hooks around the bar, but that's always annoying to do.

So, this is what I came up with:

Though I still have to finish the feet, decided to put a base-coat of paint the rest of it, since I plan to put several on this weekend.

So, it will sit like this

I'm also planning on making some brackets to put a fairing on the front to reduce wind drag/noise a bit (and because it will look better). Got my first bracket cut and bent, need to do a couple more and then cut a fairing out of whatever material I have sitting around (probably some scrap Lexan or something, we'll see). I want the fairing 5-6" out front of the front bar to allow some tire overhang once I move to larger 15" wheels in the future.

So, that's where I am. Will plan to finish it up this weekend.

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In competition news, after trying to sock away money unsuccessfully for Southern Ohio Forest Rally, decided will just hold off on that one til next year. Not sure what (if anything) the stage rally schedule will hold for us this year, we'll see how the budget looks. I do plan to go down to SOFR to crew for Dan Downey and Kevin Brolin in their e30, which should have a good shot at a podium since Dan is fast as hell and he's dropping an M52 into after breaking a rocker on his M20 (while still finishing the rally strong). So, that should hopefully be fun. that's in about a month. 

In reply to irish44j :

Nice work on the rack. I might just have to make a trip down to SOFR to meet you guys in person if nothing else! I believe there is a rallycross in June that's using the same area as the Super Special for SOFR. 

Love the rack. What are you planning on for the feet or did I miss a description somewhere?

AxeHealey said:

Love the rack. What are you planning on for the feet or did I miss a description somewhere?

Working on it now, so will post up tomorrow. It's an imperfect solution but good enough lol

So, went out for drinks tonight, but before that my automotive ADD would not allow me to not work on the rack. Today's goal was to make the mounts and a couple other things.

So, for the mounts, I took a page out of the 1970s rack my Triumph used to have, and basically did this the exact same way. With some small-diameter steel tubing. cut into 2" pieces and welded to the sides of the legs. Then drilled a hole in the bottom of the gutter where it lined up.

Now, the issue with this is that the e30 gutters are not flat, they're angled upwards. So the bolts (M6) won't sit totally flush, and there isn't much clearance. I took the ginder and ground down the back side of the bolt head so they essentially hold themselves in place at the bottom (requiring only one wrench, at the nut at the top). It's not perfect, but it'll work and just a bit visible under the outer weatherstripping.

Finished up with the correct size washers (some installed shots tomorrow). Not very pretty welding, still need a lot of practice in that department for sure, but whatever. 

The last order of business was to make some brackets for a fairing. Still need to scrounge up some material to make a fairing with, but mostly anything will work. So mocked it up and made some cuts and bends. 

And did some painting. So I think the fabbing is done. I've never been a great fabricator and this is admittedly not that complex a thing, but I'm pretty pleased that i managed to think things out and it came out pretty much exactly as I'd hoped. So, that's good.

Final shots this weekend once I get a fairing and do a final fit on the car....

I don’t know if you did any crash calculations but I did some REAL ROUGH calculations on my phone/in my head and I’m thinking I wouldn’t trust those bolts for securing a load in a crash in that fashion. 

A very similar way of mounting it could be the 4 legs are switched to rod and act as a male part that slides into a female pipe type receiver. Then the bolts could be drilled through, parallel to the ground as a sort of cotter pin. That way they’re not the failure mode in a crash. 

I can write up/ double check my calcs tomorrow on paper and scan it or draw the design if you’d like! 

(I did it as a 60ph crash... there’s room to say it’s not a huge concern because of all the other possible consequences of a crash like that, but assuming 4 wheels and tires is 100lbs,  I’d rather not have that flying off the roof and hitting someone/thing). 

I will give you kind of two answers on that. The first is my day job has a lot to do with how Navy ships are built, so I certainly would have the ability to do the calculations myself if needed! And I will fully acknowledge that there are stronger and better ways to do the mount, no question. 

That said it's a trade-off between my fabrication ability, the time I want to spend on this versus the way I plan to use it. The short answer is that this rack will only be on the car for a very low numbers of miles per year, probably less than 500, and even less of that with anything actually on it. So playing the probabilities a being in a major high-speed accident with another car on the predominantly back country roads that it will be used on is pretty low. the most likely collision I would ever have in this car would probably be with a deer. Add that to the fact that this is a nearly 40 year old car with 40 year old crash standards, and full of steel tubing, and I'd be lying if I did not say that the rack flying off the least of my concerns when driving his car!

All that said my weekend job for almost 20 years has been at a ski shop where I have installed many hundreds of roof racks on cars of all types. Many of the major brand gutter mount racks use nothing more than inside clamping Force to hold them on, while all the racks for 1970's and 80's cars often are configured exactly the way mine is. In fact this design is a copy of how the factory rack was attached to my triumph GT6, using the same size bolts more or less. I would actually say this is stronger in terms of flying off the car in a collision than many of the mainstream gutter mount racks available on the market, based on my direct experience with using and over the years. But looking at something more modern, the Thule roof rack for my Subaru WRX was basically feet that sat on top with M6 bolts going into threaded plates inside the roof (a configuration I did consider for this before rolling it out as too much work). So the shear strength of that configuration is probably pretty similar to what I have here in reality. 

bottom line is if it were my intent to do long distance road trips carrying heavy loads on interstate highways, I would probably do something a little different - But for the purposes I am using for I feel this is more than sufficient in a practical sense.

really there are so many factors involved it would be hard to calculate something realistic anyhow. I can tell you that the factory rack on my wife's Mazda SUV and then my Sequoia can both be moved with very little effort, and use plastic foot mounts. With bolts going through them to the roof. yet they are rated to carry things substantially heavier then I will ever carry on this car. So, ymmv!

All that said, as someone who went to engineering school and work with a bunch of engineers I fully understand the ingrained need for engineers to calculate out worst case scenario and then leave a huge margin on top of that! And I appreciate it. 

I figured you had weighed the pros and cons, and I know you could do the calcs, and we both agree that this is pretty low on your scale of worries in a crash (god forbid, hope you never find out!). 

But I figured I’d say something anyways, just in case!

I did try to look up the standard for manufactured roof racks, and what I found seemed pretty “fast and loose” as far as securing anything in a crash. I guess my other thought was that, in case something happens, lawyers can go after Thule, etc if you use one of their racks, but they could potentially go after you personally if something happens with yours. I don’t know- I’m not a lawyer, thank gosh (sorry to my lawyer friends!)

On another subject, what’s your plan for SOFR? I live in Columbus and may go see my first rally and figured I’d meet up with some grassroots guys since my friends aren’t into it.  

rustybuckets said:

I figured you had weighed the pros and cons, and I know you could do the calcs, and we both agree that this is pretty low on your scale of worries in a crash (god forbid, hope you never find out!). 

But I figured I’d say something anyways, just in case!

I did try to look up the standard for manufactured roof racks, and what I found seemed pretty “fast and loose” as far as securing anything in a crash. I guess my other thought was that, in case something happens, lawyers can go after Thule, etc if you use one of their racks, but they could potentially go after you personally if something happens with yours. I don’t know- I’m not a lawyer, thank gosh (sorry to my lawyer friends!)

On another subject, what’s your plan for SOFR? I live in Columbus and may go see my first rally and figured I’d meet up with some grassroots guys since my friends aren’t into it.  

One of the guys who rallycrosses an e30 with us has his car and his "race team" as an LLC (including his little tire trailer). I've always been curious as to the benefits fo that. A good lawyer could probably find all kinds of things to go after if God-forbid i had a bad accident in this car - after all, the car is engine-swapped, lots of non-stock parts, caged, and so on. I do have high liaiblity coverage on all my cars though. 

Thule and Yakima, IIRC, actually include a liability disclaimer with their stuff. Too many factors including wrong installation is probably the reason for that. 

I could do way cooler stuff if my fabrication skills were half as good as my imagination, lol, , but I'm pretty limited in the equipment I have here (and in patience, lol). 

SOFR, I'm just going down to crew for Dan Downey (assuming he gets his new engine installed in time), and may help out with a few other BMW teams i know there. I wanted to run it myself, but various factors reduced my "racing budget" this year, so had to push back that idea until next year. It's going to be a monster RWD field there and most of the east coast BMW rally cars to boot, so should be fun. 

ok, so finished things up with the rack. The last order of business was to build a fairing. After digging through various sheet materials i had on-hand, i stumbled across a dusty old Thule fairing from like 15 years ago sitting up in my garage loft. Talk about good luck. So, since it was from my old Jeep and pretty big, had to do some cutting to get it to a more e30-ish size. Then got it mounted up on the car

I think it came out pretty good as far as fit and alignment go, and it sticks up a couple inches above the rack itself so hopefully will stop any whistling from wind, etc. Also "test-fit" some wheels up there (i.e. wanted to take some photos), so here's the whole setup loaded (though not strapped down)

Also took a quick drive in the Porsche to finally test out my new headlight wiring and the H4 Hella e-code headlights. WOW. Talk about an upgrade - this setup is lightyears better than the stock US sealed beams in terms of light distance and cutoff. I am really pleased with this setup, gotta say...Initially I thought my lights were aimed badly, but apparently the e-code beam pattern is supposed to be higher on the right like that, as opposed to the DOT pattern which is more of a "blob." Interesting.

Well, after the last drive with no stalling issues, I thought I had solved the Porsche's little issue. But went out today in it and after about 10 minutes cruising down the parkway, I was going up a little hill and felt the telltale stumble (aka insufficient fuel) right as I decelertated into a stoplight, and the car went dead again. I pulled off and it fired right back up and I continued on my way. As I've replaced most of the usual "problem areas" that cause this on 924/944s, this time I thought quick enough to look at my gauges when it happened and noticed that it wasn't a stall condition, but that all electrical went dead (no warning lights, etc). So, that's telling. Even with a DME relay/wiring issue there should be dash warning lights still lit since they are linked to the ignition and not the DME system.

So, that pointed to the probable true culprit: ignition switch. I'm not sure why I didn't look at this earlier, seeing as the e30 has gone through TWO of them in 8 years (though now just has a "racecar" setup with no key/ignition switch on the column).

With that. Got home and pulled things apart

Getting to the ignition switch on these cars is actually pretty easy. Pull the steering wheel, pulle the two signal/wiper stalks (don't even need to unplug them)

Then pull the spacer collar off and use a clamp or puller to get the aluminum bearing assembly off. Actually a pretty nice design all around - the e30 one is far more difficult to deal with (IMO). 

With that pulled, I was able to pull out the ignition multi-switch and yup...

A nice big crack. This makes sense, as this issue started suddenly with no other symptoms or gradual issues. One day it was running perfectly and never stalling, the next day, repeated stalls. And while the key tumbler itself felt good and tight, clearly it's the electrical backside. Maybe after 30 years, this one just suddenly decided to give up the ghost and crack, hence why the problems started so suddenly. 

So, the upside to this is that the 924/944 early cars use literally the same ingnition switch as the VW Beetle and a bunch of Audis. So they are beyond cheap for reputable aftermarket brands - like 4 bucks! Who said owning a Porsche is expensive? :D

So, ordered a couple of them from FCP, and I think there's a good chance this will finally solve the stall issue.