1988 Porsche 944 Track Toy

Rod bearings are a wear item on 944 track cars and are replaced each season.

Running a little extra oil and making sure the dipstick o-ring is intact will help reduce the tendency for it to pop out, which also causes a vacuum leak on these cars.

Bummer, didn't see an engine coming. I guess it's good to tear down and have a spare. Ill bet on the #2 bearing.

Yesterday I took a 1-ton Harbor Freight engine hoist back to the store because it wasn't long enough to reach the center of the engine from the front or from the side. By a foot.

Then I borrowed a hoist from a 944 friend and it ended up being an older 1-ton Harbor Freight engine hoist. It worked fine. Plenty of reach. And I only removed the bumper to give myself some extra wiggle room.

So did Harbor Freight change the design of their 1-ton hoist? Or did I get the runt of the litter? I had them both set to the longest adjustment point on the boom. If you're thinking about picking up a "shop crane" from HF, you might want to measure a floor model before you buy. Because the one I got might have been long enough to reach the CG of the lump in a Yugo, but not much else.

At any rate, I got that crossmember out and tonight I'm going to take the oil pan off to see what's inside. There's still a small chance that the rod journals aren't scored to death, and I can replace the bearings and get it back together.

Here's a gratuitous picture of an oil pan without anything in the way of it, ready for removal:

You're doing good work on this car. So many 944s fall by the wayside and get driven into the ground. They are so much fun, as are the 924s. It makes me happy seeing them taken care of and enjoyed.

Thanks corsepervita! I WAS enjoying it. Here's hoping I get to enjoy it again soon!

Sorry it's been so long since I updated...

Last week I took off the oil pan and the #2 rod bearing had spun. It might not have been the only one, but I stopped right there, put the oil pan back on, and dropped the engine out of the car on Sunday. I didn't take a picture of it, but the rod journal on the crankshaft is marred just as badly as the bearing.

While unbolting the header from the test pipe, it snapped in two. From the soot around the break, it's evident that at least half the break has been there for some time. So THAT's why my exhaust sounded like poo, despite replacing every other component of the system!

This week it's going to be prepping the new engine... cleaning it, replacing the RMS, oil cooler seals, timing belts, and moving all the pieces from the old engine to the new one, including the clutch that still works.

In reply to CrookedRacer:

That sucks. Glad you're making progress.

Definitely toss that header and put a stock cast iron manifold back on, they are a little heavier, but they flow just as well and are much more reliable.

If you do replace the header with another, make sure it is well supported with an extra exhaust hanger near the bellhousing and that it is ceramic coated inside and out to reduce rust from forming and helping any stress fractures from forming/expanding. A alip joint wouldn't be out of the question for more durability, but headers aren't known for longevity in any case.

Can't wait to see it up and running again!

In reply to Stefan (Not Bruce):

Thanks for the suggestion! I agree the stock pipes could work.

The "new" engine came with the stock manifold, but only the section that goes from 4 to 2. I'd have to source the remaining collector piece that takes it at least closer to the test pipe.

I was considering cleaning these headers up, inspecting, and re-welding them, since that would be the fastest way to get back on the track. Then when I put on my "built" engine next year, I'll do something more permanent.

I can't wait to see it running either! And I can't wait to HEAR it without a gaping hole in the header!

Progress. I lifted the front end of the car from the heavy tie down on the driver's side frame rail. I made sure it pivoted on the rear jack stands as opposed to dragging the car off of them.

The engine had plenty of room to be dragged out, and I put it on one of my tire caddies so I could roll it around easily.

Then I cleaned up the garage a bit, got the engines side by side, and took the clutch off my old engine. Everything appears to be in perfect shape. Even the rubber-center clutch disk. So my guess is, it's not original, even if the design is. All the pressure plate and flywheel bolts had antisieze on them.

Also, the pivot pin was WAY easier to remove. Clean. I love those rare cases when things go your way.

The old engine had a leaky main seal (a black one) and had been throwing oil around the bell housing. The new engine has a red one, and it looks clean. I have a new red seal for it anyway. The interwebs pundits say the red ones are better, and these examples support that claim.

The old pilot bearing is perfect. It moves so smoothly! How can I remove it so I can transfer it to the new engine? For that matter, how do I get the E36 M3-y one out of the new engine?

http://t.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-bearing-puller-set-5-pc-62601.html

In reply to GPz11:

Thank you! That looks like just the ticket.

If it comes right out I will reuse the bearing. If I have to really whack at it, I'll buy a new one.

That kit worked perfectly for the bearings. I got an identical kit a little cheaper from Amazon Prime, though, but also because HF is a bit of a haul for me.

Like everything in the rear, the entire front end of the new engine was pretty rotten. Bearings in all the tensioners and idlers were rusted. The pulleys were so rusty they couldn't be used. The water pump was seized, and it was evident the pump had leaked at some point in the past.

So I migrated everything from my old engine to the new one. The old engine's water pump was practically brand new. Everything spun nicely once I had it all aligned and buttoned up.

I transferred the old clutch to the new engine too.

I had some trouble getting the engine back onto the driveshaft/torque tube, but I eventually got it to mate up by getting a few threads of the torque tube bolts into the bellhousing and using them to suck the two together.

And now it's ready for everything else to be re-attached.

Alternator, ignition, power steering, steering tie rod ends, lower control arms, sway bar, fuel rail, intake, vacuum system, yadda yadda yadda.

All of this is going to have to get done so I can run the car by Saturday. If it runs and I can get it into racing shape by then, I should be good for running two races at VIR the following weekend!

Lots can go wrong, but I'm actually pretty surprised by how far I've come with this at this point.

Sorry it's been so long... this thing has been moving so fast.

Last weekend I got the rest of the engine together. I put some caliper paint I had around on the headers because it didn't make sense to me to spend any more money on them.

They looked good for about five minutes, and then I used very dirty hands to shove them into the car with little regard for the integrity of the paint. I just hoped to retard the rust just a little bit.

It wasn't until Monday afternoon that I finished the job, took the car off the stands, and started it up. There was loud valve ticking, but I was told the hydraulic valve lifters can take time to refill with oil if they have been sitting a while. And it did calm down. But, it started! I was pretty damn proud.

Unfortunately, the gauges were all going a bit haywire and I was worried about the cooling system and whether it was purged or not.

Also, the caliper paint burned off in no time. And stunk up the joint while it was at it. I'm glad I got it mostly burnt off before Tuesday.

First thing on Tuesday morning, I towed it in to Charlie at Intersport in Tysons Corner, who did his thing. He found the loose ground strap and fixed the leaky power steering, purged and tested the cooling system, and gave it a race alignment, which actually cost more than all of the other stuff combined.

I was grateful and I was able to pick up the car on Friday on the way to the track. I know, cutting it close, right?

I picked up the car Friday morning on the way to the track and by the time I got to the track on Friday evening, Hurricane Matthew had already started making everything wet and darkness was quickly...darkening, I guess. I put off a little too much work for the morning as a result.

In the morning I still needed to put up my canopy, install my window net, driver net, strut tower bar, and belly pan. And change tires to the "rains".

So I missed the Lightning Group warmup session. The rain was pretty intense by then, but it only got worse as the day wore on. I think it peaked mid-afternoon, right around the time of the races.

Here's the view from my truck every time I had to change into my suit or try to dry out a bit:

It poured cats and dogs all day long.

Anyway, I got out there for qualifying, and I couldn't see much. But the car performed well, and I was grateful for that. No issues whatsoever. No issues except a car hydroplaning sideways just in front of me. I'll work on isolating that video clip.

The afternoon race in the POURING rain was exciting, too. I've put together a highlights video of the Lightning Group race, and I hope you'll find it entertaining. It does involve two SpecE30 cars spinning out right in front of me!

https://www.youtube.com/embed/83fC19LcudE

Sunday's 40-minute race was rather uneventful, which is what I was after. The car drove well, and I ticked off faster and faster laps, with a 2:26 best lap.

I got the last two punches on my NASA Provisional License, so I'm pretty stoked about that. Primary goal accomplished!

My third lap on track and this happens:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/ivSExDBohOk

Sorry about the foggy video. I couldn't see a whole lot better myself...

God damn thats wet! Glad to see it back on the track, and nice job missing the two E30's, that looked entertaining.

I now have an '88 high-compression ratio 944 NA engine in my garage that I would like to rebuild the "right way".

The "right way" is rather fluid... there are things I can do to the engine that are legal or illegal in various classes. And so I have some decisions to make as far as what class to run, what kind of work to have done to the engine that I don't have tooling for, and what parts to buy.

What to do? What questions do I even ask (of the experts, of myself) to get started?

I should get started soon because the winter will be over before I know it!

I cleaned out the garage and relocated all summer/race tires to Mom's basement for the winter.

Yes, this is the AFTER shot (but just look at how someone could actually walk through there without risking serious injury):

And I bought an engine stand with a 20% off coupon. I had to order specific bolts because the clutch bellhousing bolts were too long and too short (2 of each).

I got M12-1.5 x 75mm plus two flat washers on each corner of the stand's mount. They were perfect.

Now I'm REALLY ready to get started!

Let's DO this!

I took the head off yesterday to get ready to take it to the shop.

No huge surprises.

This is the only scoring but it isn't much (#2). You can't even detect it with a fingernail.

I dropped off the head this morning at the machine shop, and I was so excited! I just wanted to talk through everything and I probably began to tell him my life's story (I may have started in on seven pages of GRM build forum posts at a minimum).

The man was having none of it.

He was like, "I'll take it from here. Don't worry."

But... one of the valves was wiggly when I...

"We'll find it, and we'll take care of it."

You're going to inspect for cracks, right?

"It's going to be ok. You can go now."

Routine drop off for them, momentous life-event for me. :-)

Sounds like a good shop anyway. But I know the feeling of giving away your most prized part and wanting it done exactly how you would do it.

PARTS!

Plus a reconditioned water pump from Zims, and a hardware kit for that. Also the Rennbay exhaust manifold stud kit shown below.

I will also be sourcing some other used parts - a crankshaft that's not galled, balance shaft sprockets and crankshaft sprockets that aren't rusty, and some miscellaneous parts (missing bolts and hardware).

Finally, I have yet to purchase the lightweight flywheel, clutch, and lightweight pressure plate. I'm going with a SPEC stage 1. I welcome any suggestions on where best to source that.

Stuff coming off the engine. I can't weld aluminum, so I need to find someone near DC to install a baffle in the oil pan for me. I also wish to find someone who can cross drill a 944 crankshaft for additional oiling.

Trying to stay organized:

The block is getting shorter!

I'm going to replace this oil cooler:

...with this oil cooler console from a 944 Turbo, which will allow me to use an external fluid cooler of my choice. But that means I have to choose. And I was overwhelmed by the choices on Summit's website. I would like some suggestions here, folks! At the very least, how to i pare down the selection? How big? What brands?

Console:

I just noticed that some poor guy in a factory in China ran out of 1/2 ton stickers for my 1000 lb engine stand.

On Monday I picked up the cylinder head from the machine shop. It is so clean! I will never get the rest of the engine that clean. Well, except for this refurbished water pump from Zims which also arrived today:

That is the exhaust manifold stud kit from Rennbay on the left there.

Anyway, the head looks great, and although there would have been a higher charge for a competition valve job, he said it was essentially a competition valve job. I don't know what a competition valve job is, so I'll just take his word for it and enjoy.

I mean, this thing looks so good I think it would make a nice centerpiece for Thanksgiving! Sort of a "cornucopia of moar power", if you will.

Hang on...

I like it!

Thats Pretty!!

I have used B&M Coolers in the past, I like them. Decent priced and seems to be good quality. Get the plate type rather than the tube/fin.