kevinatfms said:
wvumtnbkr said:
kevinatfms said:
bobzilla said:
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
Not related....any guidance on wheel/tire fitment?
We have run:
205/45R16
215/45R16
205/50R16
all on 16x7 +42 or +40 wheels.
The 215/45R16 Azenis squared was the best setup we have run so far. All drivers want more front grip.
What is the biggest offset and widest tire we can fit under the fenders(maybe with a little cutting) without making a custom wheel? 17x8 is readily available in a +35 offset. They also have a few 17x8 +30 wheels that are available. Id assume a 235/40R17 would fit up front and we could run a 215/40R17 in the rear.
Or stick with 16's and go for 225/45R16 up front and a 205/50R16 in the rear on the wheels we already have? Its right at 24" tall for both tires and i have a stockpile of the 205/50R16 on the wheels. Would swap some of the used ones to the 225's for the front only.
If you can fit 15s, do it. 15 x9 or 15 x10 with a 245 40 15 rs4 has won most of the races this past year.
If you can't fit 15s, go to 17s. 16s is almost a dead size. Not much choice.
If you are over about 2200# you will need a 225 to 245 to stay at the front of the pack and not overheat the tires.
Getting good aero/ splitter on the car can help with front balance.
15's wont fit over the bigger brakes. Going back to stock brakes wont work as car couldnt last 2 hours on stock sized brakes, even with ducting.
We can do 17x8 +35 and a 235/40R17 up front and a 215/40R17 out back? They are readily available wheels; same with the tires. Go square on all 4 with the 235/40 or stagger the rear to 215 or 205 for a loose rear?
The gearing will also be quite off. Stock is a 24.2" tall tire. The 235/40 is 24.4" tall. A 215/40 is 23.8" tall.
The 225/45R16 would fit on the current wheels and we could still run the 205/50 in the rear to burn them off. Would make it easy to go with them for the December race since i only have to swap half the tires over to the 225's.
And we have started the aero. Air dam, splitter and a rear spoiler in DIY fashion.
Actually some 15's will clear. The 15x7's I had on the swift cleared but just barely.
I liked the 225/45/16 but not many tires in that size. A 17x8 and the 235 squared would be my default probably. that .2"difference is less than a percent difference (0.8) and is closer than the OE speedo was ever. Going to a 15x8 225/45 would be way to short (5%) and your top end will suffer.
bobzilla said:
kevinatfms said:
wvumtnbkr said:
kevinatfms said:
bobzilla said:
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
Not related....any guidance on wheel/tire fitment?
We have run:
205/45R16
215/45R16
205/50R16
all on 16x7 +42 or +40 wheels.
The 215/45R16 Azenis squared was the best setup we have run so far. All drivers want more front grip.
What is the biggest offset and widest tire we can fit under the fenders(maybe with a little cutting) without making a custom wheel? 17x8 is readily available in a +35 offset. They also have a few 17x8 +30 wheels that are available. Id assume a 235/40R17 would fit up front and we could run a 215/40R17 in the rear.
Or stick with 16's and go for 225/45R16 up front and a 205/50R16 in the rear on the wheels we already have? Its right at 24" tall for both tires and i have a stockpile of the 205/50R16 on the wheels. Would swap some of the used ones to the 225's for the front only.
If you can fit 15s, do it. 15 x9 or 15 x10 with a 245 40 15 rs4 has won most of the races this past year.
If you can't fit 15s, go to 17s. 16s is almost a dead size. Not much choice.
If you are over about 2200# you will need a 225 to 245 to stay at the front of the pack and not overheat the tires.
Getting good aero/ splitter on the car can help with front balance.
15's wont fit over the bigger brakes. Going back to stock brakes wont work as car couldnt last 2 hours on stock sized brakes, even with ducting.
We can do 17x8 +35 and a 235/40R17 up front and a 215/40R17 out back? They are readily available wheels; same with the tires. Go square on all 4 with the 235/40 or stagger the rear to 215 or 205 for a loose rear?
The gearing will also be quite off. Stock is a 24.2" tall tire. The 235/40 is 24.4" tall. A 215/40 is 23.8" tall.
The 225/45R16 would fit on the current wheels and we could still run the 205/50 in the rear to burn them off. Would make it easy to go with them for the December race since i only have to swap half the tires over to the 225's.
And we have started the aero. Air dam, splitter and a rear spoiler in DIY fashion.
Actually some 15's will clear. The 15x7's I had on the swift cleared but just barely.
I liked the 225/45/16 but not many tires in that size. A 17x8 and the 235 squared would be my default probably. that .2"difference is less than a percent difference (0.8) and is closer than the OE speedo was ever. Going to a 15x8 225/45 would be way to short (5%) and your top end will suffer.
What do you mean by "your top end will suffer"?
Is this cars top speed gear limited?
Most champcars only get to 130mph as a top speed unless talking about Daytona.
wvumtnbkr said:
bobzilla said:
kevinatfms said:
wvumtnbkr said:
kevinatfms said:
bobzilla said:
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
Not related....any guidance on wheel/tire fitment?
We have run:
205/45R16
215/45R16
205/50R16
all on 16x7 +42 or +40 wheels.
The 215/45R16 Azenis squared was the best setup we have run so far. All drivers want more front grip.
What is the biggest offset and widest tire we can fit under the fenders(maybe with a little cutting) without making a custom wheel? 17x8 is readily available in a +35 offset. They also have a few 17x8 +30 wheels that are available. Id assume a 235/40R17 would fit up front and we could run a 215/40R17 in the rear.
Or stick with 16's and go for 225/45R16 up front and a 205/50R16 in the rear on the wheels we already have? Its right at 24" tall for both tires and i have a stockpile of the 205/50R16 on the wheels. Would swap some of the used ones to the 225's for the front only.
If you can fit 15s, do it. 15 x9 or 15 x10 with a 245 40 15 rs4 has won most of the races this past year.
If you can't fit 15s, go to 17s. 16s is almost a dead size. Not much choice.
If you are over about 2200# you will need a 225 to 245 to stay at the front of the pack and not overheat the tires.
Getting good aero/ splitter on the car can help with front balance.
15's wont fit over the bigger brakes. Going back to stock brakes wont work as car couldnt last 2 hours on stock sized brakes, even with ducting.
We can do 17x8 +35 and a 235/40R17 up front and a 215/40R17 out back? They are readily available wheels; same with the tires. Go square on all 4 with the 235/40 or stagger the rear to 215 or 205 for a loose rear?
The gearing will also be quite off. Stock is a 24.2" tall tire. The 235/40 is 24.4" tall. A 215/40 is 23.8" tall.
The 225/45R16 would fit on the current wheels and we could still run the 205/50 in the rear to burn them off. Would make it easy to go with them for the December race since i only have to swap half the tires over to the 225's.
And we have started the aero. Air dam, splitter and a rear spoiler in DIY fashion.
Actually some 15's will clear. The 15x7's I had on the swift cleared but just barely.
I liked the 225/45/16 but not many tires in that size. A 17x8 and the 235 squared would be my default probably. that .2"difference is less than a percent difference (0.8) and is closer than the OE speedo was ever. Going to a 15x8 225/45 would be way to short (5%) and your top end will suffer.
What do you mean by "your top end will suffer"?
Is this cars top speed gear limited?
Most champcars only get to 130mph as a top speed unless talking about Daytona.
We wouldn't even make 130. Think we topped 112-115 on North into turn 1. South we were right over 100 entering turn 1.
North going into Turn 1 on the 215/45 we were in 4th gear if i remember correctly. South we were at the top of 3rd?
The gearing of the 205/45 and 215/45 at 23.6" helped us on North Course. We didnt have the power(i think due to the stupid accelerator cable being stretched beyond comprehension) so the shorter gearing kept us within an earshot of a A class spec Miata down the front stretch.
Id think going down to a 23" tire would benefit us even more once we have an LSD to put the power down.
kevinatfms said:
wvumtnbkr said:
bobzilla said:
kevinatfms said:
wvumtnbkr said:
kevinatfms said:
bobzilla said:
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
Not related....any guidance on wheel/tire fitment?
We have run:
205/45R16
215/45R16
205/50R16
all on 16x7 +42 or +40 wheels.
The 215/45R16 Azenis squared was the best setup we have run so far. All drivers want more front grip.
What is the biggest offset and widest tire we can fit under the fenders(maybe with a little cutting) without making a custom wheel? 17x8 is readily available in a +35 offset. They also have a few 17x8 +30 wheels that are available. Id assume a 235/40R17 would fit up front and we could run a 215/40R17 in the rear.
Or stick with 16's and go for 225/45R16 up front and a 205/50R16 in the rear on the wheels we already have? Its right at 24" tall for both tires and i have a stockpile of the 205/50R16 on the wheels. Would swap some of the used ones to the 225's for the front only.
If you can fit 15s, do it. 15 x9 or 15 x10 with a 245 40 15 rs4 has won most of the races this past year.
If you can't fit 15s, go to 17s. 16s is almost a dead size. Not much choice.
If you are over about 2200# you will need a 225 to 245 to stay at the front of the pack and not overheat the tires.
Getting good aero/ splitter on the car can help with front balance.
15's wont fit over the bigger brakes. Going back to stock brakes wont work as car couldnt last 2 hours on stock sized brakes, even with ducting.
We can do 17x8 +35 and a 235/40R17 up front and a 215/40R17 out back? They are readily available wheels; same with the tires. Go square on all 4 with the 235/40 or stagger the rear to 215 or 205 for a loose rear?
The gearing will also be quite off. Stock is a 24.2" tall tire. The 235/40 is 24.4" tall. A 215/40 is 23.8" tall.
The 225/45R16 would fit on the current wheels and we could still run the 205/50 in the rear to burn them off. Would make it easy to go with them for the December race since i only have to swap half the tires over to the 225's.
And we have started the aero. Air dam, splitter and a rear spoiler in DIY fashion.
Actually some 15's will clear. The 15x7's I had on the swift cleared but just barely.
I liked the 225/45/16 but not many tires in that size. A 17x8 and the 235 squared would be my default probably. that .2"difference is less than a percent difference (0.8) and is closer than the OE speedo was ever. Going to a 15x8 225/45 would be way to short (5%) and your top end will suffer.
What do you mean by "your top end will suffer"?
Is this cars top speed gear limited?
Most champcars only get to 130mph as a top speed unless talking about Daytona.
We wouldn't even make 130. Think we topped 112-115 on North into turn 1. South we were right over 100 entering turn 1.
North going into Turn 1 on the 215/45 we were in 4th gear if i remember correctly. South we were at the top of 3rd?
The gearing of the 205/45 and 215/45 at 23.6" helped us on North Course. We didnt have the power(i think due to the stupid accelerator cable being stretched beyond comprehension) so the shorter gearing kept us within an earshot of a A class spec Miata down the front stretch.
Id think going down to a 23" tire would benefit us even more once we have an LSD to put the power down.
That is my thought as well!
We run 15s. We are gear limited at the top of 5th to 128mph. We have only touched that once or twice ever.
The added benefit is smaller tires lower the car and the center of gravity with no real negative.
Were going to try out the 225/45R16's up front and 205/50R16 in the rear. We have so many tires left from the last race that it is just cost prohibitive to not try and use them. This way i can remove the 6 tires we already tore up and swap on 225's to those wheels.
Focusing on aero improvements also with a front air dam, splitter and rear lexan spoiler. This weekend ill start with the air dam fabrication and mounting. Rear spoiler should be here next week.
I mean it's only been.... 10 years since I drove one. My memory isn't as good as it once was.
New door latch pull finished.
Lower strut mounts back from welder. Going to swap them back onto the car this weekend.
Nice offset! Should help with camber issues!
bobzilla said:
Nice offset! Should help with camber issues!
We are going to go hog-ham on this car for the December 2022 8+7 races.
Old front brake lines removed and new installed. Some oddities on the old ones....no DOT stamp on the Stoptech logo wrapped around the line. New Stoptech lines from a known vendor has both DOT and ST on the label. The braided sheeting seems to be different on the old ones versus the new ones. The old ones didnt have any brackets while the new ones had brackets to secure them.
So no clue if they were even the right lines or not.
Either way, carnage ensued....
and our ruptured section.
New back brace to be welded up and installed. The tech inspector at Champ Car was eyeballing the amount of play in the seat mount to slider to side brackets of our current installed seat and recommended we put a back brace in.
Pyrotect makes a really nice bolt in unit that we will weld the plate onto the tube and make some extra holes for our specific seat combination.
Back brace looks good, I need to add something like that to my track car. Is there anything between the plate and the seat back?
adam525i said:
Back brace looks good, I need to add something like that to my track car. Is there anything between the plate and the seat back?
It has a sticky backed squishy pad thing to make sure the plate doesnt dig into the seat.
Decided we are going to paint the car. Hyundai Performance blue or some type of Krylon close to its color. Red accents will be utilized to mimic the N brand.
Starting yanking off stickers yesterday and will begin to prep the car this weekend. I will have some time off as my 2nd child is due next week. So during off time ill work on the hyundai to get it painted one panel at a time.
Also going to tackle the ported intake and throttle body install, starting making a bracket for the electric/hydraulic power steering pump along with fittings for the rack and replace the front exhaust flange as it started leaking due to me going off at "Fish Hook" during the 12 hour race.
Ordered a new clutch kit and flywheel. Both will be replaced when we yank the transmission to install the LSD and replace the synchros. Going back to a Exedy stock replacement and OE flywheel as they worked great and lasted through our punishment.
Our To-Do List of things for the car: Things in bold must be done before VIR 8+7 races
-ported intake manifold
-ported throttle body + throttle body coolant hose delete
-revised brake ducting with ducted backing plates
-electric power steering conversion using Volvo pump(0 points)
-helical LSD(+25 points)
-lightweight flywheel + new clutch
-remove more weight(hood, doors, trunk, interior paneling/parcel shelf) hoping for 100-150lbs more off the car
-alignment
-fix exhaust manifold flange leak
Vehicle Performance Index Breakdown:
275 Elantra
140 for coilover suspension
5 for underdrive pulley
25 for LSD(not installed yet)
10 for strut brace
465 VPI points
Super excited for the December races. We are now running 225/45R16 Toyo R1R's up front and 205/50R16 Accelera Sport 651 in the rear. This should aid in some extra rotation that we really needed last race. Camber is around -2.0 to -2.3 degrees on both sides with a mix of camber plates, camber bolt(D/S) and the washers welded in full negative.
The power steering electric-hydraulic conversion has almost all the pieces needed to complete the conversion but i dont know if i will have enough time to finish it.
Getting down to the wire for the December VIR race at North Course. We are changing the driver line up this year as two of our drivers needed to backout due to other life events going on. So i asked a friend who is a seasoned SCCA and WRL racer. He should be a very welcome addition for the weekend and hope to see him wring the crap out of the Hyundai. Currently we have 4 drivers and 0 crew. Hoping that at least one or two more people would want to come hang out for the weekend or driver. Any takers?
With that, lots to do to finish the car....
front and rear wheel bearings w/ ARP studs
replace pads/rotors - Porterfield R4's and blanks
flush all fluids - oil/brake/trans
reinstall back brace with new holes to push seat farther back
install ported throttle body and intake manifold
weld on v-band clamp at exhaust manifold to mid pipe connection
full alignment
swap on 225/45R16 tires up front
that should complete the last small items before the race.
Excited to see the car back on coilovers with some wider tires up front. Should help the terrible understeer we had at the last race.
Welp, front and rear wheel bearings did not go on. The ARP studs purchased that "should" fit did not. They are too large for the bores of the rotor.
So, back to regular studs and new wheel bearings.
Brakes look good so i lubed everything up, cleaned off the OPR around the hubs and put everything back together.
Fixed the exhaust manifold connection. Was loose due to the nuts used to secure the connection(shop installed lug nuts to hold connection?). New nuts, washers and gasket and no more leaks at the flange. Later down the road will fix this permanently with a header with a 2.25" v-band connection that i have sitting on a shelf.
225/45R16 tires up front....woof they are beefy.
The alignment is looking good by eye with my hodgepodge setup right now but it goes to a local shop to get an actual alignment check on Tuesday for a real check using a machine.
Hoping for -2.5 of camber. Will dial in zero toe and crossing fingers that caster should come in the 3.5-4.0 range.
The body is bent due to my off track excursion at VIR going into Hog Pen. Before that incident the camber was equal on both sides. Now, all else equal as far as max camber using the upper plates, the driver side is still -1.0 off the passenger side. Threw a camber bolt into the top slot on the driver side only(crash bolts!) and now we have equal measured on my crappy analog angle finder for checking camber. If all things go well this coming event we will stick with what we have. If the camber still is off, we will have to find a body shop to check the unibody and pull it where needed to get it straight enough to get some normalcy in the suspension alignment.
VIR is now stating that all lodging and garages are not available. Two weeks before the event. We have requested to move our entry fee to the March 12 hour race so that we have a place to stay.
Really bummed that Champ Car and VIR did not have this scheduled out to make sure there was no overlap.
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
DUDE that sucks!
Yeah, its 2 weeks before the event. Last minute is the word of the week right now. Car gets alignment Tuesday and then it would just be fluids replacement to be 100% ready.
Since we arent going to VIR this weekend, my plans have changed to clean up and progressing anything i can. Looking at fixing a few of the things under the car that have rusted off - vapor canister strap and its plastic shroud, the fuel tank straps and start modding the Miata wing to fit better on the Elantra.
Also, thanks to Bob for the find on a brand new header. Plan is to send it off to get Cerakoted first and accumulate some better hardware, MLS exhaust gasket along with a O2 defouler.
In reply to kevinatfms :
I came in here to ask about the header.
