Intake makes a LOT of noise.
Intake makes a LOT of noise.
Well i heated and pulled and heated and pulled. We have a good amount of clearance on both sides(over 1/2"). One area where the rear bumper connects to the body of the car needs to be "flattened" with a hammer a bit to remove the biggest obstacle left.
One big issue i did find.....well seems when the alignment was done they didnt tighten the bolts down to the rear knuckles enough to hold. We slipped both sides. Since the damper body is slotted to allow camber adjustment the wheel moved positive and negative during cornering(hence the issue in the picture). This lead to more and more rubbing that didnt need to happen.
I set the rear damper back to the middle of the range and tightened the hell out of the bolts. Ill have to align it the best i can in the rear with string lines. Told the shop of the loose knuckle bolts and they offered to realign it but i dont have time to rent a trailer and take it all the way back down there. So ill do it with my setup and hope for the best. Rechecked the fronts and they are good.
Rear tires are toast due to the rub. So going to replace all 4 of them before the next event with an extra set of RS-RR's i have from my old 15" Fiesta wheels. Ill keep the fronts as a spare set and just trash the rears.
Update on some engine work:
Cold air kit is done. 2.75" from throttle body to fender well. Sounds ridiculous like Bob said with what feels like better tip in response. Also waiting on a gasket but will swap the 52mm ported throttle body i have laying around. Will also port match the intake side with the throttle body with my dremel.
For exhaust, we will remove the secondary catalyst, resonator and muffler with straight pipe for now. Might swap in a muffler at a later date if the car sounds too obnoxious. I have a 2.25" turbo style muffler or a 2.5" chambered muffler that i have in a stash of parts which could be welded in place. Stock manifold and primary cat will stay in place. Going to replace the o2 sensors since they look original.
Next event is December 13th.
It'll resonate like hell. Ask me how I know.... but you're not street driving it so it probably won't matter.
bobzilla said:It'll resonate like hell. Ask me how I know.... but you're not street driving it so it probably won't matter.
Nope, no tags going on this one. Some noise will hopefully be better than not knowing what RPM the car is at. There is also hell of alot of noise from rocks and debris being kicked up.
In reply to kevinatfms :
I think for your setup it'll be fine. The helmet will also deaden some of that noise. I'd just make sure the pipe exits far enough back and out the passenger side if not going all the way back.
Found some extremely cheap 16x7" wheels - $340 shipped. They arent the lightest but they arent chrome or stupid heavy. BWT 16x7" wheels with +40 offset in 4x114.3 and around 18lbs per wheel. I will swap my 205/45R16 Federal RS-Pro tires from my Fiesta(which got a new set of 215 sized Azenis) for these wheels. Going up in wheel size will allow us to run the bigger DIY big brake kit up front.
Ill add some photos tonight....intake went on, ported throttle body went on, new IAC valve and i removed the muffler. It sounds ridiculous for now but i do have a 4" long resonator coming to make it sound a bit better plus ill add some sort of tailpipe to it with a turndown. My E36 M3ty welding skills came out when i had to cut the hangers off the original muffler to weld onto the existing pipe to support it.
I still need to delete the resonator under the car along with the secondary catalytic converter. Need to measure how long it is and just buy a straight section of pipe to weld into that space.
"back in the day" I ran 16x7 Koenigs and 225/45 Hankook RS-2. Great combo for that car.
bobzilla said:"back in the day" I ran 16x7 Koenigs and 225/45 Hankook RS-2. Great combo for that car.
I was going to go with 215/45R16 after we finish off the 205/45R16's since its still within a few tenths of an inch from the 205/50R15s that are currently on the car. 225's would bring the gearing back up to OE though since its a 24" tire. Wonder how they would fit in the wheel wells though.
Its amazing the space in the front of the car. Dont know if its because the fender liners are all gone but i feel like we could stuff a 245 in the front of this thing. The rear.....well, not so much.
Offset is key. I ran 16x7 +40. I did have to roll the rear fenders a little to clear the 225's. Front could have taken more tire easily. I know how much fun Porky was (that was the name it earned, heavy, slow and plowed like a pig). Dropping 400lbs would have made it much better.
New exhaust is on. Removed the rear 30lb suitcase muffler from under the rear bumper and replaced it with a Totalflow 4" resonator in 2.25" with a turndown tip.
Video of how it sounds and a peek at the "craftsmanship" under the car. Its not raspy or ridiculously loud. It has one OE mid resonator and the secondary catalyst for now plus the small one in the rear. My welding sucks so if it falls off ill be the first to throw my hand up. For now though it works. Add on the intake noise and you can actually hear the car now which should help with keeping our eyes on the track instead of trying to figure out what RPM we are at.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29Du5qAr4bg
In preparation for the next Trackcross event we are going to start on the rear disc conversion and big brake kit up front. I did procure some uber cheap 16x7 wheels that weigh around 18lbs. I swapped my 205/45R16 Federal RS-Pro's from my Fiesta onto them which fit like a glove.
The next event is Trackcross at Summit Point on Jefferson Circuit.
Went to swap on the homebrew big brake kit only to find out i ordered the wrong rotors up front. So a quick Rock Auto purchase and a set of 04 Sonata rotors are on their way.
We did get the wheels swapped over. The offset is certainly different on the 16's versus the 15's so i threw on some 5mm spacers to poke the wheels out a bit more.
Here she sits as of last night:
Big brake kit done up front. 16" wheels clear with plenty of room. Removed the 5mm spacer for now because i felt like there werent enough threads securing the wheels.
Anyway, onto the pictures of the brake install. And, yes, i do plan on making a shield for the intake filter and yes, those are Yellow Stuff pads(for now, ST-43's next).
one man brake bleeder is an amazing piece of equipment to have.
those cleaned up nice
In reply to bobzilla :
Yes they did. A little brake clean and some scrubbing with a brush took most of the grime off them. Funny thing, underneath that grime was a set of calipers in much better shape than the original set on the Elantra. The boots look perfectly fine, the pistons had a little surface rust but nothing alarming and the bleeders were free. The OE elantra calipers were much worse for wear with the boots nearly toast and the pistons had heavy rust on the face.
I'd already flushed the brakes so I knew the bleeders were free. Those calipers ran at the challenge and I knew they were solid or I wouldn't have sent them... well I might have for cores if nothing else.
Welp, went to install the rear disc conversion yesterday and found i dont have caliper bracket mounting bolts. Have everything else except those (4) bolts.
So, ordered 3 versions i found and matched up what i could using hardware i have laying around the garage. I know they are M10 x 1.25 and i believe 1.5" long from measuring the bracket through the knuckle connection.
I then went on Mcmaster-Carr and ordered M10 x 1.25 Grade 8 bolts w/ washers in 1.5" length just in case the Dorman or Carlson parts boxes dont work. I could only find Grade 8 though and im hoping that Grade 10 isnt needed since i cannot find any of that strength class on Mcmaster-Carr.
So, this week will be a bum rush to swap the rear brakes to discs, bleed the system and bed the pads in before the event this weekend at Summit Point.
In reply to kevinatfms :
next time send me a message, I could have pulled one on Tubey toget you the measurement.
Jesus bolts came in for the rear lower control arms. Bought them since the last time i did a rear disc conversion i broke both bolt heads off due to corrosion. This car has a little bit of rust in the rear but it doesnt look as bad as the last Elantra i owned.
Hand for size comparison(and i have fat hands). These things are absolutely massive.
bobzilla said:In reply to kevinatfms :
next time send me a message, I could have pulled one on Tubey toget you the measurement.
Here is a stumper for you. Did you know the knurl on the wheel studs is different front to rear? Trying to find a set of extended length studs and it seems there are two different knurl sizes for the 2002-2006 Elantra and 2003-2006 Tiburon.
In reply to kevinatfms :
and they're different depending on what hubs/bearing assemblies you purchase as well. The Timkens I bought were .500 where the chinesiums I'd used before were .51825-ish
bobzilla said:In reply to kevinatfms :
and they're different depending on what hubs/bearing assemblies you purchase as well. The Timkens I bought were .500 where the chinesiums I'd used before were .51825-ish
Sometimes i hate Hyundai's little nuances.
In reply to kevinatfms :
a lot of it is aftermarket doesn't know what to do so they fake it. Timken units appear to be Hyundai units reboxed, or at the very least from the same factory/tooling.
bobzilla said:In reply to kevinatfms :
a lot of it is aftermarket doesn't know what to do so they fake it. Timken units appear to be Hyundai units reboxed, or at the very least from the same factory/tooling.
Damn jesus bolts bit me. They are frozen SOLID in the rear knuckles. Did everything except melt them out yesterday. Buggered the bolt heads so badly that im going to have to cut everything out just to get the rear disc conversion installed. Why they used these stupid long bolts is just baffling. Horrible design.
Got all new hardware from hyundai, new toe links and trailing arms for the rear. Going to rip it apart this weekend to swap the discs over along with all new suspension components over.
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