Heh, I'm pretty slow at times, especially with stuff I really don't want to do. I feel ya there.
Car looks great! I'll check out the video later, thanks for sharing!
You coming back up for the CSCC driver's school this weekend?
Heh, I'm pretty slow at times, especially with stuff I really don't want to do. I feel ya there.
Car looks great! I'll check out the video later, thanks for sharing!
You coming back up for the CSCC driver's school this weekend?
In reply to turboswede:
No, track day at ORP Saturday. May go back to watch the rat race on Sunday if the radiator holds up.
The plastic end tank is what cracked. I just need it to last the weekend. I ordered a dual core, all aluminum model from DeWitt's today. $677 shipped, with a free 6 pack of microfiber towels! Because every Corvette owner needs plenty of polishing towels on hand 
I've started to remove the steering rack to be able to get the crank pulley changed. Everything is loose but the hydraulic lines. They're a little rusty, and there's basically no room to access them. That and I'm not sure exactly which ones to remove yet. berkeleying maze of hard lines in that area. I also pulled the serpentine belt and alternator just to get better access. The JB Weld has set up on the radiator, I'm planning to get it pressure tested tomorrow. Not entirely sure I'll be able to have it all back together on time though, I'm really slow and this is taking forever. And the hood is totally in the way, what a stupid design.
I thought that C6s were in Super Stock. Maybe they changed it for this year's rules.
Mr_Clutch42 wrote: I thought that C6s were in Super Stock. Maybe they changed it for this year's rules.
They did change the rules. I'm on Hankook RS3 tires.
The good news is I got the steering rack out tonight!
What a pain in the ass. This process made me wonder if I actually enjoy working on cars, or if I just enjoy the idea of it, and buying tools.
Can't even hardly get a picture of the power steering lines that were the PITA. That and all the lines that had to get flexed out of the way to get the rack out.
A little bit saddened by the amount of corrosion, she's not even 10 years old yet!
Petrolburner wrote: What a pain in the ass. This process made more wonder if I actually enjoy working on cars, or if I just enjoy the idea of it and buying tools.
How so very much I can relate at times!
Petrolburner wrote:
Not that a CAGS bypass is the most complicated thing in the world, but I generally find that instructions written in Comic Sans give me increased faith in the company that sold me a part.
In reply to Will:
LOL, I didn't really notice that but it was a nicely made kit.
Tonight I'm going to swap crank pulleys, finish extracting a broken bolt from the aluminum engine cradle and clean up as much of the engine bay as I can.
I'm due for an update. I swapped in the new crank pulley and oil seal, a new dual core all aluminum radiator from DeWitt's and did a 2 day HPDE at Portland International Raceway.
http://headonphotos.net/gallery/NASA/NASANW14-1/hpde/63%20Corvette/index.html
Track day yesterday at ORP in Grass Valley. Had a lot of fun, learned the track pretty well, had my girlfriend sit in the stands with a stop watch and I ran a 2:01.9 in my 4th session. I also got the front wheels so hot that the plastic center cap got soft and departed the vehicle. Signed off for group 3 by my instructor. I was in group 2 and 2&3 were combined. I did a lot less passing than I did at PIR.
Cool...congrats! I want to make it out to ORP.
http://youtu.be/sMtBnUJxTt8
Hot sticky tires
In the halfpipe at ORP I was loaded up pretty hard in a right hand turn, hard enough to put the air dam down on the pavement and grind it away.
My Carbonne Lorainne RC5+ brake pads after 3 track days and some street driving.
Here are some relatively new street pads with unknown mileage inbetween the 2 sets of CL front pads. I was expecting the CL pads to last longer.
It was in the mid to upper 80s at ORP on friday, my giant DeWitt's radiator kept the oil and coolant temps ok. At the end of the last session I was about 270 on oil and 220 on the coolant temp. The front wheels got hot enough to send the center caps elsewhere.
Corvettes belong out on the track, not wasting away in a garage between car shows.
Can you put that skip shift modifier on and still run in stock autocross?
I feel you on the working on cars thing. I successfully do all sorts of projects, but I hate doing them. Always makes me nervous that I'm going to mess something up.
Harvey wrote: Can you put that skip shift modifier on and still run in stock autocross? I feel you on the working on cars thing. I successfully do all sorts of projects, but I hate doing them. Always makes me nervous that I'm going to mess something up.
It shouldn't make any difference. If you're at that low of a throttle input that the CAGS would kick you into 4th gear, you're basically idling through the course.
It's just something that people will pick on if they know about it and care, because it's technically not legal for stock autocrossing. I'm not picking on you and wouldn't even if you ran with me, just letting you know. Technically they could protest and have you either DQed or moved to a different class.
I contacted the eBay seller where I bought my wheels to find out if I could get some replacement center caps to replace the ones I melted at the track. This was his response.
Hello, Yes and no. Yes I have the caps and will mail them to you today, no, you may not pay for them. I will send you the USPS tracking # shortly. Bruce
How's that for customer service? He even sent a set of C6 flags/stickers for the center caps. I'm not going to apply them but still, how thoughtful.
http://www.ebay.com/usr/tirewheelblowout
Any recommendations for a good street pad with decent manners for my C5. Leaning towards Hawk HPS, was also told stop tech makes decent street pads for cheap. Dont want a ceramic.
Opti wrote: Any recommendations for a good street pad with decent manners for my C5. Leaning towards Hawk HPS, was also told stop tech makes decent street pads for cheap. Dont want a ceramic.
Knowing what I know now, I would not try to get a dual duty pad. I would have gone with the CL RC6e pads for track days and used stock organic pads for the street. That basically what I'm doing now with the RC5+ I don't know enough about the other brands and materials off the top of my head to comment.
Prepare for the wailing and gnashing of teeth by the feather duster and waxer crowd!
Oh yes! The C6 is now a tow rig!
Not a lot of clearance between the bumper and ball, or the receiver and the exhaust or the rear sway bar but it should be ok. I had to use some 1/16" stainless cable to pull the exhaust cans outwards towards the side of the car to keep them from banging against the center portion of the receiver. The stock cans were narrower and probably would have been fine. Some ultra loud bullets or straight pipes would provide a lot more clearance but the Corsa Sport sounds excellent.
Not much room for the safety chain hook ups either. I wish I would have bent them down at an angle before installation. Such a pain in the ass to get the hitch on and off though that I'm not in a hurry to remove it again. May just use it as is. With the cables pulling the exhausts away the clearance isn't so bad. Next up is wiring. My little pop up camper has a 7 pin hookup and I'd like it to charge the batteries while I'm towing so I may wire up a 7 pin receptacle and use an extension to plug in. I haven't figured out the placement yet. I haven't towed anything yet either. I tempted to get a little motorcycle sized cargo box to keep luggage in so I can keep the trunk empty and have room to stow the targa top on road trips. A trailer that size is tough to back up though.
SPORT-utility-vehicle
C5 vs C6
topless
A C6 track car pulling a pop up camper is the epitome of doing-it-right. I need a profile pic of the rig latched together.
The problem right now aside from wiring is that there's not really enough room to get the pin that holds the stinger in. The exhaust tips don't have enough clearance for the pin I have. Is there anything wrong with getting a grade 8 bolt and bolting it in place? That could be done with less overhang on each end.
not sure what the double shear rating of a grade 8 is. Fairly sure the grade 8 rating is for tension. (Bolts are made for tension or shear, not really both.)
if you do bolt it. Get a bolt that as closely as possible matches the ID of the hole. Keep in mind the banging of the trailer might damage the threads.
if you can maybe find one that only has threads outside of the opposite side of the hole and a shank that is as close as possible to the ID of the hitch hole.
I had trouble losing centercaps off my C4 on track days too. A little bead of clear silicone glues them in nicely and you can still pop them out when needed.
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