$2016 Challenge- 86 Ford Thunderbird

yeah thats a small input t5.

We have the Pilot Bearing which adapts the Turbocoupe trans to the Mustang motor. It came with the Trans, the guy we bought it off was going to do the same thing. We also need to change the clutch disc anyway, as I accidentally damaged it by dropping it when I removed it to get it on the engine stand.

if you have found the website yet great but http://www.tccoa.com/ is your first stop for anything you want to do. They have a HUGE technical library on the steps for everything you've mentioned...

In reply to Mad_Ratel:

Thanks for the tip, I've also found alot of good info on www.coolcats.net

And now begins the slow and painful process of sound deadening removal... going with the old scraper and hammer method, seems to be coming off good, there's just a lot of the stuff.

Smaller update:

Have slowly been working away on the T-derp, and now have about 2/3 of the sound deadening out... But it turns out they used so much in this car, that it wraps all the way up the firewall... So the dash had to come out... To much pain and many swears...

We're also thinking while we're at it, we're going to remove the HVAC completely (although save it if we want to put it back in later).

Also, made a trip up to Calgary, and picked up a Turbocoupe steering rack (15:1 instead of our 20:1 ratio), and tryed to get the 8.8 LSD 3.55 geared disc brake rear end from the same car, but to no avail... it was extremely rusty, and all the bolts were seized... In addition, the car had wheels, which couldn't be removed due to wheel locks with no key present... BUT, as to not be totally defeated, we did manage to get an 89 4 cylinder mustang rear diff, which may sound lame, being a 7.5, open diff, with drum brakes (also slightly narrower than the T-derp axle), but at least it has 3.73 gears, and we can weld it.

I'm still not fully taken by the whole welded diff idea for autocross, as I think it will plow too much, but since the car won't be ready till the 2016 challenge, we have time to test it out and see if we like it or not...

Should have another update soon, featuring shiny new parts in boxes!!

True story: it takes less than 10 minutes to remove a TC rear end if you Sawzall the control arms.

Finally a bit of an update, haven't had too much time lately to actually work on the car, hoping to get some done this weekend... Did pick up some more parts though...

First off, a Summit plastic drag seat. Lightish, cheap, and half decent. Not by any means comfy, or well bolstered, or FIA approved, but our budget doesn't allow for any of those things. A lot lighter than the stock lumps though...

Rear BMR lowering springs for a fox body mustang, to match our fronts:

El Cheapo OE replacement shocks, and Tie Rod ends for the quicker rack from Rock Auto:

Trick Flow A/C and smog pump delete bracket, with appropriate belt, and a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter to connect our knob to the box (

Will update the total budget spend once I get all the prices converted.

Got some decent work done this weekend!

Removed all of the A/C system, removed the smog pump, removed all the HVAC, removed the door cards, and finished off the bulk of the sound deadening removal (The trunk was all that was left). Still have to remove a bit of firewall insulation that is held in around the steering column and pedals, condensing the wiring, get the seat mounted and the pedals in soon, keep shedding weight, and start getting ready for the driveline swap. :-)

Question! (if anyone is still reading)

Is a roll cage considered a safety item? IE, is it free from budget constraints?

Thanks in advance!

On the subject of the build, nothing exciting yet... done a little bit of harness stripping, but that's about it. Spun a connecting rod bearing in my Subaru (I think), so in the process of tearing it apart now...

not any more. but your padding is

If I was to do a challenge car, the first choice would be a 5.0 car, whatever I could find cheapest, for all the reasons shown in this thread.

Cheap ass parts, and they are like lego cars.

Dont most people just freeze the sound deadening with dry ice, and hit it with a mallet? Ive heard removing it is pretty easy with this process.

I second GT40P heads and a letter cam. Buddy put together a pretty potent setup on a fresh high compression mustang bottom end with gt40 (non P) heads, explorer intake, headers, tune, and a F (maybe E I cant remember) cam. Made like 265 or 280whp through a T5. He got it all used for peanuts.