Headlights (Not cheap, but worth it IMO):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45VCT7/
100% drop-in if you don't mind running the OEM headlight switch on the limit (~12amp). The tabs lined up with factory brackets, and no cutting of the dish was needed to clear the back of the bulb. There is a fan on the back of the LED, which can be heard with the car off, but not over the car running. Could do this way cheaper if you don't mind the current plastic LED headlights (which I use on the miata), but wouldn't look as good on this.
The relay kit + splitter is another $32 (cheaper than buying the connectors). I went this route, vs some of the 4 lamp kits, since I want all 4 lit up on low and high, and less wiring to tuck away.
I liked this route, since it plugs into the OEM wiring with no splicing needed, which means I can just use the OEM connectors if the relay fails on a trip.
Some progress on the column fix - cut it at the end of the rag joint. Test tube slips over easy with very little play. Printed bushing is almost perfect - had a hard time getting calipers in it with the rag joint in place, so reprinting with more accurate OD.
I was hoping to not need to pull the column further apart (since 50 year old plastics). but I don't feel great about pinning the slevee in the 1/2" accessible. If I pull it out, can sleeve it on the bench (and weld it for good measure). Can use the pins to locate the bushing so it can't slip down either (though the ujoint gets it 90% there. Still- worlds better than this:
VID_20200521_171818.mp4 by Jacob Ronald, on Flickr
Some progress today - but not enough. Extended the column an inch, which would make it reach the OEM steering box.
Thankfully tested that I could slip the column from the engine bay, so not an issue reassembling. Unfortunately, the unisteer kit, while pretty looking isn't working out so far. There appear to be more issues than just the column adaption. Hoping their support has answers.
In reply to jronald :
Thanks for the info on the lights, they look good.
I was less than impressed with Unisteer tech support. Lot of turnover meant I got answers and commitments for parts that never shipped followed up by “...new guy don’t know anything about that he’s no longer here” and “I’ll have to check and get back to you...”which didn’t happen. Get names, contact info, and tracking info.
wawazat said:
I was less than impressed with Unisteer tech support. Lot of turnover meant I got answers and commitments for parts that never shipped followed up by “...new guy don’t know anything about that he’s no longer here” and “I’ll have to check and get back to you...”which didn’t happen. Get names, contact info, and tracking info.
I'm not optimistic. Rather than waiting, going to order stuff tomorrow to make it work. Their phone system is all messed up, when I mentioned it, guy said it had been that way for months and their IT guy was over his head - thinking that applies to everyone working there. They offer the the thing in 4 different pulley configurations, but somehow didn't know (care) that it was built for a column thats in ~5% of the cars. Wrong parts in the kits seem to be a running trend.
The rack bolted in fine, I needed to clearance the headers a bit more than the steering box, but nothing major. I dislike that the rack bracket is the lowest part of the car now.
In positive progress, lower control arms are finished - added reinforcements to he stamping so it can take the weight of the car without the risk of tearing the studs out. The Coil overs are going to mount from above, vs the install from below method before. These were a gigantic PITA getting back on the car - over the last 50 years, everything is just slightly off. Next up is the strut rod bushing replacement, and I'll get the spindle reinstalled. I shouldn't be allowed near spray paint - this is "galaxy blue colorshift" and it may be my new favorite thing.
If they look as good under the car as those pictures, it'll be awesome!
Uhhhh I think the IH suspension bits should be that color too. 
Yeah, what brand and who carries it? Looks fantastic!
Its Rustoleum Galaxy Blue Colorshift: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-254860-11-Ounce-Specialty-Galaxy/dp/B0058I2I5O
~$20 a can ($25 at autozone). Picked it up on impulse. Its sprayed over gloss black, and after the install work today, I'd say it should be cleared over - still, 1 can was enough to cover everything in this photo (both sides). It does need the right lighting to look great, otherwise its just a dark blue/purple.
which leads to progress comments:
Got upper/lower control arms in - fought the strut rods for way, way too long but was successful - I miss the slop the old stuff had, made disassembly cake.
and the double adjustable coilovers are in, everything appears to have been good with the changes for the lower arms to have them sit above.
These are 650lb 10" springs, I'll run them for a bit, but thinking I'll be downsizing to the 9" (they don't make an 8) to get the rideheight I want - near 0 adjustment left on the lock collar.
I still need to rebuild the front hubs, and swap out to the new calipers up front, but might actually be on the ground this week. Summit shipped the steering column bits I need, so hopefully wed/thurs.
Opti
Dork
5/25/20 8:55 p.m.
That color looks like it belongs on a bass boat. Im normally all about black suspension components with maybe some red sprinkled in, but I am digging the color on this stuff.
Some minor progress today - got the hubs repacked and brakes back on. Will flush everything tomorrow. Steering rack is still being a PITA. Going to mark the headers for clearancing tomorrow and drop the rack one last time.
Never got a response from contacts or phone support at unisteer - likely a wash on their end. ordered a 30" section of double D shaft and a borgeson 1" smooth to 3/4 DD u-joint. If I was to do it all over, would just make this up myself with a different rack - should anything need servicing, getting parts from them appears to be a joke. Little worried about clearance between the bracket and the inner tierod ends - will find out tomorrow. Went overkill on the column bushing, but don't want to have to go back in there anytime soon.
Finally getting a break from the race season, and off quarantine from the last trip to TN. Went to finish the power steering install today, and the water pump wouldn't let the bracket align correctly.
One thing lead to another and now it looks like this:
IMG_20200718_175748 by Jacob Ronald, on Flickr
Taking the chance to sandblast the headers since the coating flaked off and some persuasion was needed to clear the steering. pulled the radiator out, and cleaning up the bracketry as well.
To paraphrase (slightly) Ron Burgundy...Well that disassembled quickly! This very process has happened to me pretty regularly.
wawazat said:
To paraphrase (slightly) Ron Burgundy...Well that disassembled quickly! This very process has happened to me pretty regularly.
Yea, was one thing after another and I had a pile of parts for it laying around the last 5 months. went from water pump to alternator (have a 140amp sitting) and then seeing just how E36 M3ty the wiring was for the 3 wire + distributor, with the broken coolant / Oil pressure senders, lead to well I have heads and the EFI bits sitting, and a cam somewhere.
Now that its apart, not sure what I actually have. Bore measures 4.1030 give or take the E36 M3ty HF Caliper measuring. Found another stamping once the heads were off, guessing this is a .060 overbored block already ><
IMG_20200718_171045 by Jacob Ronald, on Flickr
Might be smart to pull it at this point, and bring it to get checked out - Seems clean, but no idea the history, and don't love the idea of a mid 70s block bored out that much. Tempted to just slap the heads / EFI / cam on it and send if for now instead.
(though if pulling, even smarter would be selling the EFI / heads etc and finding a fun donor) :P
My vote is button it up then build a new motor. Fe blocks are cheap for cores to build on your schedule. If this block blows up you will already be on your way. Enjoy it until you're 100% ready to take her down.
I agree with Brent here. I just did the some thing similar to the Cleveland in my Cougar when I saw a leaking rear main and then some bearing wear. I replaced all the main and rod bearings and closed her up for now. I’m interviewing shops for a new motor now.
Might be smart to pull it at this point, and bring it to get checked out - Seems clean, but no idea the history, and don't love the idea of a mid 70s block bored out that much. Tempted to just slap the heads / EFI / cam on it and send if for now instead.
Forgive me if you mentioned this in an earlier post but are you having engine troubles of some kind? Low compression, or burning oil or something like that? If not I’d be inclined to agree with everyone else here and run it (maybe a little more gently than usual) until something forces the issue.
But, if you are having troubles that’s a different ball of wax. Might be decision time now that you are down to the short block.
(though if pulling, even smarter would be selling the EFI / heads etc and finding a fun donor) :P
I’d be curious to hear more about your thoughts here. I’d be hard-pressed to give up the old school vibe of an FE.
In reply to jerrysarcastic (Forum Supporter) :
Engine was running fine(ish). Most likely carb setup more than anything else that was off. That said, I had bought the EFI/Heads months ago since cold startup was a constant fight (only to find that the electric choke was wired into the original power window relay that an owner had bypassed at some point). Pulling the covers / intake, noticed 2 pushrods were pretty chewed up. When I pulled the heads, looked like valve sealing issues as well, which would explain the cover pressure (oil seepage near breather). Also found a cardboard backing plate between alt and head, with burnt wiring, the splice work for the dist was taped together >< , etc. This thing has passed hands more than a little, and varying quality of work.
I like the old school vibe, but bits are expensive, and limited options. I keep increasing the scope from nice weather daily / tow vehicle for the sts car, to occasional autox, to track night etc. The C6 and 3.0 rear end aren't a great match to any of it, and anything with more gears starts adding up quickly. It then gets to everyone's normal swap options, since the money I spent on heads / EFI gets close to donor swaps of engine/transmission which can do all of the above while getting way better mileage and parts availability if something goes wrong on the road. For now, going to slap the heads / EFI on it, while cleaning up some other bits. Working on getting a new harness asap, since I'd rather know the wiring is good (and properly fused). As the race season is pretty toast, going to keep an eye out for fun transmission options.
Probably the only thing that makes sense is a 351w (maybe stroke it to add cubes) and that would be much cheaper than a similarly built FE. But the transmission issue is a non-trivial one. I'm kinda in the same boat as my C4 and 3:00 gear is also not really up to what I want to do with my wagon either. A modern Tremec 6 speed would be sweet, but jeebus that price!
Since you don't have the shock towers that intermediates have, it looks like you could get away with a newer Coyote-based drivetrain out of a wrecked Mustang, but that's just a guess. Either way, I assume there will be a good amount of fab work to keep a Ford in your Ford since there are no kits to help you swap all that into a Country Squire wagon.
Maybe you should just accept fate, switch to the dark side, and plop in an LS drivetrain? I consider it sometimes too... though I also consider all the new friends I will need to meet because my Ford friends have all left me. ;)
