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Stu Lasswell
Stu Lasswell Reader
8/31/22 1:40 p.m.

In reply to JoeTR6 :

I agree with your assessment regarding the relative looks between the Rota RB and the Rewinds, but the Rota only seem to be available with 10mm offset for Datsuns. Works for most TR6s I guess but I would have to use an even thicker spacer for front clearance.  Not to mention the extra $100 a set. Oh, and 2 lbs. heavier per wheel.

Stu Lasswell
Stu Lasswell Reader
9/5/22 5:16 p.m.

    Well, after several days of grinding and cutting through fiberglass, while trying to do as little damage to the outer body as possible, I finally got one side of the bonnet support frame out.  I started on what I believe to be the most corroded side, so I hope the other side will come out more intact (the better to use as a pattern for replacements).  Again... have any of you seen replacement  frame structures offered any where?

Lots of weird angles, but otherwise not a complicated welding project for a good welder.  We'll see.

Then, there's this. Been looking for a jar of this for years.  The cheap Chinese aftermarket crap just doesn't work like the original Lucas smoke.  Maybe worth the premium price, when available!

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
9/5/22 6:11 p.m.

My hinge frame is off and the center tube is in tact. The whole thing is pretty well in tact really. I'm not ready to let it go yet, but if it would make much difference for your welder, once I get all the measurements I could need off of it and have a firm plan on how my replacement will be made, I could ship it to you. 

Stu Lasswell
Stu Lasswell Reader
9/5/22 7:18 p.m.

In reply to CoolHandMoss :

Thanks for the offer, Luke.  I took some measurements before I cut it out relative to the spacing of the two corners since the were no longer connected, and I believe the remains, as pictured, should be a sufficient template. Still, I may just need to take you up on that!

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
9/5/22 7:24 p.m.

In reply to Stu Lasswell :

Let me know. No telling when I may have my replacement together well enough to let go of it though. That is assuming a permanent separation. Temporarily, pretty much any day. 

TVR Scott
TVR Scott GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
9/6/22 11:01 a.m.

Not sure about anyone offering new frames.  Maybe ask the TVR group?  Seems like I saw mention there once.

Stu Lasswell
Stu Lasswell Reader
9/6/22 6:53 p.m.

   Got the other corner of the hood support assembly out.  Took all (of what was left of it) to my local welder.  He figures about $200 to replicate the entire structure, plus materials, but that's mostly round tubing.  So, maybe $250 tops.  I'm thinking  of using heim joints rather than that T-shaped tubing with rubber bushing that TVR used.  Saw where someone recommended this as it would help with misalignment issues.

   Another thing... My welder noticed that although all the tubes seemed to be cut to the same length on both sides, the vertical threaded piece on one side was welded about 3/4 inch off from the other side! Like the tube slipped down in their jig, but the just welded it there anyway, figuring the threaded collar and shaft would allow for adjusting for their sloppy workmanship!  Which is true, I suppose, but still pretty poor quality control.

   So, onward to the grinding away of all that fiberglass I cut up, and hopefully I can rebuild all that I cut/ground/mangled well enough before the new components get done.

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
9/7/22 10:14 a.m.

Sounds like a rather good price to me. Especially considering the points that contact the bonnet need to be perfectly spaced. That's tough with distortion from welding and all. 

Stu Lasswell
Stu Lasswell Reader
9/7/22 2:40 p.m.

In reply to CoolHandMoss :

I, too, thought the price to be quite reasonable.  As to "perfectly spaced", I don't think TVR even managed that.  The front bumper mount bolt holes on mine are miss-matched by at least a half inch, and inside it looks like they made up for gaps by just packing in more fiberglass.  Also, it looks like the flat metal "tabs" on the ends where they're glassed in are there I think so they can be bent or curved to make up for variances in the fit.  Now, I suppose, would be a good time to engineer some sort of improved pivot point to allow the bonnet to open up further, but I'm just going to replicate the stock set-up and work something out from there.

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
9/7/22 3:47 p.m.

Quite true. On mine they used plywood to fill the gap. So yeah, maybe not perfect. You can always shim out the tolerance. 

 

TVR Scott
TVR Scott GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
9/7/22 4:34 p.m.
CoolHandMoss said:

On mine they used plywood to fill the gap.

On mine they used rust to fill in the gap.

Stu Lasswell
Stu Lasswell Reader
9/7/22 6:15 p.m.

In reply to TVR Scott :

Well, of course, Scott. It's well known that you found the rustiest 2500M in the country.  Nonetheless, you constantly amaze me with your ability to overcome... you are an inspiration to us mere mortals.  Or maybe a cautionary tale.

Slow_M
Slow_M Reader
9/24/22 3:48 p.m.
Stu Lasswell said: 
Again... have any of you seen replacement  frame structures offered any where?

 

Adrian Venn or John Wadman 

Stu Lasswell
Stu Lasswell Reader
9/24/22 7:32 p.m.

In reply to Slow_M :

Thanks!  Looks like I'll be making new ones anyway...Does either of the guys you mentioned have a web site or page listing what they have available? I've not seen advertisements from either, although their names are frequently brought up.

Slow_M
Slow_M Reader
10/15/22 2:42 p.m.
Stu Lasswell said:

In reply to Slow_M :

Thanks!  Looks like I'll be making new ones anyway...Does either of the guys you mentioned have a web site or page listing what they have available? I've not seen advertisements from either, although their names are frequently brought up.

PM’d you their contact info. 

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