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CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
8/11/22 7:35 p.m.

The motor came off today. I'm taking it to an electric motor repair shop in Richmond. Hopes are low that they can fix it, but we'll see. I think it's a problem with the plastic internal fan and it's so old I doubt the necessary parts are available. If they can't fix it I am sure they can sell me a replacement! 

 

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
8/19/22 2:34 p.m.

I picked up the compressor motor and got it back on today. Everything is working great. The after cooler setup I made is definitely working though maybe not as well as I'd like. I'm seeing about 170 coming out of the pump and 120 going in to the tank after it runs for two cycles back to back. In two cycles I already got moisture out of the after-cooler drain so that's good. I'll compare the amount of water that comes out of the tank vs. out of the after cooler to see if it's worth expanding it. 

Anyway, it's finally time to get back to work on the TVR.

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
9/8/22 2:28 p.m.

Haven't done much that makes for good updates lately. It has mostly been rather boring and laborious work. But here's a boring and quick update anyway. With the compressor squared away finally I was able to finish getting the bonnet hinge frame off. Mine was held on with ridiculous amounts of some goopy type of epoxy. It actually has a consistency similar to Bondo but a little harder. There are actually a few different adhesives in different areas. There are pictures of this mess a few posts back I believe. None of them seem particularly strong or well adhered. So it has taken quite a bit of effort getting all that out so I can get down to actual fiberglass to adhere the new frame to, whenever that happens. I did most of the work with a burr on an angle grinder. Accidently went through the glass in a couple spots... For the most part I could see the color difference when I got through to glass but I missed it a couple times apparently. So I had to back down to something less agreesive toward the end. Ended up using one of the synthetic red bristled "wire wheels" for a lot of it, which went fairly well. Abrasive disks made of scotch Brite like material also worked for removing this adhesive without removing fiberglass toward the end, though they didn't last long. I figured while I was at it, I know there is no chance in the world I hook up a windshield washer system on this car so I removed the line running up the underside of the bonnet for that and ground down all the material that had enclosed that. So after making about 5 pounds of dust in the garage I was able to start reinforcing the areas I broke through more than enough to make up for what was lost. I cut out the plates that will mount in the front bonnet mounting points so that's a step toward actually starting to make a new hinge frame I guess. Additionally whenever I have some epoxy mixed up I am working on filling in any voids/flaws in the body side of the bonnet little by little. Those that I can access from this position anyway. Again, rather time consuming stuff that doesn't make for very exciting updates. It'll be a while before any more updates too because next week I go out of town for a two week school for work. I'll be home briefly here and there but I doubt I'll get any time to work on this any. That's all for now. 

Side note, I type these posts out on my phone usually and after reading over them, sometimes I feel inclined to apologize for my poor sentence structure. The thumbs get tired and shortcuts look all too appealing! 

 

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
10/26/22 2:26 p.m.

A month and a half since my last update and I still don't have a whole lot to show for it. This fabrication business is new to me so I'm pretty slow moving at it. I've been fairing out the cups where the bonnet hinge frame mounts in the bonnet so that I can reinforce those areas cleanly with some glass. It's tricky working in that concave area. We're getting there though. I got a decent start on putting the new hinge frame together. I'm not sure if I'm going to leave that vertical post running all the way up to the bottom of the bonnet or not. That ended up making construction way easier and now I can't think of a reason to cut it off. I may just leave the additional contact point. My only concern is that the little stress put on that point might cause paint cracking. Probably not worth it. I'm hoping to get the frame put together and bedded in within the next month then I get to start working on the car side. 

 

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
10/28/22 6:33 p.m.

I am still far from proficient with a welder but I did manage to get this side of the hinge frame to bolt in cleanly finally. Shrinkage is always the worst, isn't it? 

The rate at which surface rust develops is motivating me to get out here and work more. 

TVR Scott
TVR Scott GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
10/29/22 9:20 a.m.

Looking good. 

I agree that the vertical connection looks like it adds some support.

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
11/2/22 4:40 p.m.

Moving along. The other side is together now. I think I'm going to bed these in before connecting with the center section. Not attach them, but just bed them to get good contact before final installation. Then their relative positions will be firmly determined and I can attach the crossover. 

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
12/7/22 1:35 p.m.

Chipping along here and there but between work and family obligations I haven't had a whole lot of time in the garage lately. I did finally finish drawing up the parts I need to make the lower control arms and got those cut out by a local metal shop. I was pretty nervous about giving them paper drawings. I've taken a technical drawing class but it was a while ago and I'm no professional. But they got it spot on. The tolerance the water jet gets is amazing. Only complaint is that the edges are not perfectly square. Good enough for this though. got the parts themselves and some parts just to use for positioning while welding everything up. 

Shavarsh
Shavarsh HalfDork
12/7/22 2:22 p.m.

Very cool, what was the ballpark price on the water jetting?

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
12/7/22 2:49 p.m.

The secretary was out when I picked them up so they are going to bill me. I am curious myself. Last time they cut me out the same amount of stuff it was 100 but they didn't have to draw those into cad. I'll post back once I get the bill on this one. 

TVR Scott
TVR Scott GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
12/8/22 10:03 a.m.

For stuff like that I can whip up a solid model really fast.  Then making a dxf file for the water-jet people is one click.

Let me know in the future and I'd be happy to lend you a hand.

BTW, what is that?  Motor mount?

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
12/8/22 12:30 p.m.

That's the outside end of the lower control arm. The threaded ball joint sleeve goes in there. It looks a little messy in the picture because all of the pieces that are just there for spacing are shown as well. I tried to stay as close to the design of the original as I could. Obviously it's pretty different in form but I think it will look natural there. 

 

And I appreciate the offer. It'll be a bit before I need anything else like this cut out but I will take you up on that when I get there. 

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
12/15/22 2:52 p.m.

$93. Less than half what I expected. Hell I'm surprised the metal alone didn't cost more. I kind of know the guy that handled my order so that may have helped. 

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