Barely Functional Racing LS Swaps a Triumph TR4

Wheeltubs.

Always wanted to do a v8 powered pro-street mg midget. But a tr4 is an acceptable substitute 

Gunna be a ripper.

Beauty of the TR series is you can take the body off the frame, build up a running chassis (and reinforce as necessary) and then drop the body back when you are done. This will definitely be a ripper, seen some nice TR6's with an LS drivetrain, so can't wait to see this on a TR4.

Me like.  It will be fun to see this come together.

AxeHealey said:

Gunna be a ripper.

Oh yeah!

Thanks for all words of encouragement guys.  I want to have fun with this build and include the Indy-Kids in my shenanigans.  As you follow along, you'll notice my fab skills aren't the best, but I hope to improve as I go along.  Anyway here's what happened tonight (expressed in pics):

Sweet.

Gm 60 degree? Auto?

In reply to Robbie :

60 degree, Yes.  Auto, yes

In reply to Indy-Guy :

What are you gonna do with that paperweight?

Try to trade it for something I can use.  because Challenge budget.

Do you want it? Put it in the Datsun Roadster?

Welllllllll....

No, no I don't want it. I used to have one in an s10 with a 5 speed. No desire for another.

No I was thinking you might let the kids take it apart and practice their head porting or cylinder micing or rod bearing plastigauging. 

You know, hot rodder stuff.

That steering shaft is interesting.

Pete

Ms ifold, carb and distributor are about the onky things if value with sn estmrly 60 degree you cant hear run. 

NOHOME said:

That steering shaft is interesting.

 

Pete

I see several things I wish I could fabricate for brian, including a slightly less icky crossmember

In reply to Robbie :

If I can't get some $$ or a decent trade, that's what I'll do.

In reply to NOHOME and Patrick:

Yes, interesting to say the least.  Please note the car is still basically exactly as I bought it.  You'll see even more of the previous owner's questionable work when I get the body off the "frame" and show you the door jams.

Dusterbd13-michael said:

Ms ifold, carb and distributor are about the onky things if value with sn estmrly 60 degree you cant hear run. 

This engine would probably start and run if I could figure out how to temporarily hot wire this junk.

In reply to Indy-Guy :

Boat fuel tank, 12 volt switched to the coil, jumper cable negative to the block and positive to the starter lug.

Stampie said:

In reply to Indy-Guy :

Boat fuel tank, 12 volt switched to the coil, jumper cable negative to the block and positive to the starter lug.

Ok. Here's the coil:

I assume ground goes in through the outside body of the coil/ mounting.  Which wire gets the +12 Volts attached?

Here's the distributor:

Mid 80's-ish GM

Two wires going in.  One Orange, the other black (maybe brown?). What connects to these? 

100% stolen from 

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/2.8L/ignition-coil-tests-1

When you turn the key and start cranking the engine, this is what happens:

1. 12 Volts reach the ignition coil on the gray connector terminal labeled with the letter B (in the illustration above). The wire that connects to this terminal is a pink (PNK) wire.
2. As these 12 Volts enter the ignition coil, they also exit on the pink wire of the black connector (terminal labeled with the letter D of the black connector). These 12 Volts now feed power to the ignition module.
3. As the engine starts to crank, the pick-up coil (which is the defacto crankshaft position sensor) starts to generate its position signals to the ignition control module.

4. The ignition control module (ICM) now starts to activate the ignition coil across the white wire of the black connector (terminal labeled with the letter C in the illustration above).
5. The ICM activates the ignition coil to start sparking by turning on and off (interrupting) the ground circuit.
6. You and I can check the ignition coil by checking that it's getting power and that the ICM is supplying the ignition coil's activation signal.

Big fat pink wire is +12v

Patrick said:

Big fat pink wire is +12v

It's a GM thang.  Big fat pink wires are always 12v (ignition switched), big fat orange wires are 12v (battery).

Also, this project is sick and wrong, and I mean in that with the highest level of approval.

Knurled. said:.

.......

......

Also, this project is sick and wrong, and I mean in that with the highest level of approval.

Wow.  Thanks!  Considering the level shenanigans and work you do in the "Bat Cave" I take that as real compliment.

That "frame" is highly modified, not a stock TR4 frame. I would pull the body and see what you are dealing with. Much easier to build your chassis with the body out of the way. I can see this is a highly "customized" TR4, so you are free to do what ever you want with out having to worry about the purists complaining about messing with a classic. Watching closely..... 

Indy-Grandpa stopped by for a visit:

Let's see what damage we can do.....