And everything is out. Next up is figuring out what to do with the stuff in that space, removing the shifter again, and sliding it back.
I am still not sure what to do with the Z bar linkage. Do I drill another hole in the mount to simply move the ball along the engine block, or do I remove the riveted in bracket on the frame? Neither option is great.
Id drill the hole myself if it gets the geometry right. Messing around with rivits and such sucks.
Some pictures of the room for exhaust, and potential for headers eventually, given the worst case scenario with the Zbar. I can't tell if a typical header would go over or under the bar.
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:Id drill the hole myself if it gets the geometry right. Messing around with rivits and such sucks.
Yeah I think that's where I'm going.
No pictures, but the engine is moved. The driveshaft is in. I need to solve the problem of how to drill the lower motor mount hole, need to drill new holes for the transmission crossmember, need to cut the hole for the shifter, and we are back in business.
Yay!!!
And ive drilled impossible holes with a carbide burr. Essentially just gound the hole out
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:Yay!!!
And ive drilled impossible holes with a carbide burr. Essentially just gound the hole out
Dude you read my mind.
So where is the best place to buy the niccop brake line coils and fittings?
Should I redo the lines on the axle just because?
Should I buy an adjustable brake bias valve now, even though I'm not yet sure what caliper I want to run on the front, or when I'll get around to switching to disc on the rear? Which one?
I use nicopp from advance auto parts.
Fittings i order from Amazon, because they are far cheaper there.
Adjustable prop valve should be done now. I like the combination distribution and adjust blocks. Regardless of brand and price, tear it completely apart and clean all the swarf out. Every single one ive bought in the last five years wouldn't bleed because of swarf. Save the aggravation.
Replace the rear axle lines and rubber flex lines.
Just my experience. Also, nicopp flares BEAUTIFULLY.
Wow!!! swarf is a real word !!!! thanks MCDbD13 I learnt sumpin' today 
Transmission crossmember is mounted. That was a little more difficult than I had guessed. It turns out that my tubular crossmember was turning. Since the mounting pad hangs off of one side, the weight is cantilevered, and the crossmember was rotating in its brackets. I needed to weld it to keep it perpindicular to the transmission.
Anyway that's done
What's your favorite flavor of close-enough-to-period-correct bias valve?
In reply to tuna55 :
Unfortunately, none that I know of. Best is just hide it out of direct line of sight
Well I tried to take pictures, but taking them under a truck supported at one corner with a jackstand is pretty tough.
I realized that in addition to my terrible upside-down welds, the crossmember was still about ten degrees off. I cut the welds off, tacked it in the right place, removed it, painted it, and will try to install it this evening before our vacation starts.
Grrr
I also drilled a new hole for the clutch Z bar linkage bracket and painted it as well.
Also while I was at it, I painted the inner frame rails where the old crossmember went.
I also stared a bit trying to visualize where the exhaust might go. Ideally I want a big single someday. When this thing gets real power, I want to run a header into a big Y and then a single 3.5 to the back and a dump before the axle. I don't know how the Y will work though, because the transmission is pretty low. I stared at it for a bit but didn't do anything.
In other news, I cleverly left the brake lines in place along the passenger side frame rail. They look pristine, so that means I can flare either end to make the front and rear sections saving both time and money. I even ran the new fuel lines in the same clips, so it looks pretty tidy. I forgot that I did this, because this project is so very very slow.
So let me get this right.
You are doing work equivalent to an engine swap, just because the driveshaft was 1" too short?
Is there an upside to this beyond saving the cost of the driveshaft?
And yes, working with the kids is a valid answer.
Pete
Labour is free, and this is very much a budget build.
Better engine setback is good.
Yeah what he said!
Honestly removing the crossmember from the old transmission was something I should have done anyway. Additionally I didn't know I needed to weld the new transmission crossmember, and that should have been done anyway. The rest is gravy compared to those two things.
Back in the saddle after a nice vacation.
The shifter is in, and the crossmember is finished. I have to drill the tough motor mount hole still.
Something is weird with the clutch. I confess I don't know a ton about these, I have never really torn apart a mechanical clutch before. I may take a video to ask for a bit of help.
Got that problem fixed. Clutch works normally. Now I guess on to the rest of the show.
Im sooo happy to be seeing regular updates from you again. It just makes this place better.
So, from a high level, where we at with this project? Kinda forgot whats attached and whats just waiting to be attached. Is there an engine firing date in sight?
Pete
In reply to NOHOME :
Need brake lines, calipers and a steering column so I can bring it to the driveway to put it in primer. Steering column is serious money. Brake lines are going to happen next month probably.
In reply to tuna55 :
I forgot all about the column.
Ill grab pictures this afternoon while im in storage
Nice!
You'll need to log in to post.
