LMC can also be a FANTASTIC resource of how things go together:
And if you need parts, the catalog page for your column is here:
https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-chevy-gmc/steering-column-parts/cb-1967-72-steering-components
LMC can also be a FANTASTIC resource of how things go together:
And if you need parts, the catalog page for your column is here:
https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-chevy-gmc/steering-column-parts/cb-1967-72-steering-components
Does the turn signal junk "notch" itself in place with the cone?
I vaguely remember both of my columns being a drunken collection of poorly-fitting pieces held together entirely by itself being held together. I'm pretty sure I needed the steering wheel on it of the inner shaft would just fall out the bottom.
Wow that's amazing detail, thanks!
No comments on the music choice?
Let me take a look and see what I need.
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:Does the turn signal junk "notch" itself in place with the cone?
I vaguely remember both of my columns being a drunken collection of poorly-fitting pieces held together entirely by itself being held together. I'm pretty sure I needed the steering wheel on it of the inner shaft would just fall out the bottom.
I didn't put the turn signal switchy-doo in there because it's borked anyway.
A 67-72ChevyTruck guy will send me a rebuild with mine as the core for $225. It may be worth it when I get through adding up all the needed parts.
LMC parts put me around $110, though he said the thread looked stripped on my column. I'll need to check again.
He's right. It is stripped. I pulled the wheel off last night and didn't even notice.
Check FB marketplace, and your local wreckers. I got my '68 (non tilt) column for $50 from some guy off FB. Another column will likely be cheaper than fixing what you have.
Or weld-on a quick-release steering wheel adapter...... :)
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:Check FB marketplace, and your local wreckers. I got my '68 (non tilt) column for $50 from some guy off FB. Another column will likely be cheaper than fixing what you have.
I have, and called too, but nobody has it. For the price of shipping one from a yard far away, if you can find a yard to do it, this guy will ship a rebuilt one and then an empty box for my parts as a core. That's really pretty good.
And no way am I welding on this thing. Ha!
Ah, fair enough. When I was looking for a column, they were scarce and pricey. When I stopped looking, mine fell into my lap. Thing is - I don't need it right away, and that can sure make a difference, eh?
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
And how!
Driveshaft? Column? Jimmy hoffa?
New rebuilt column!
Bad news,I can't find all of the parts. I found one! Well, actually tunakid 3 found it:
Cough : cough : some time ago : cough I took a picture of the firewall, and I don't see the extra part circled in that paper. It was just a picture from the internet. Every parts explosion says that I should have it. Any ideas?
I'm tired so I took this picture and didn't even clean the wheel.
I'm a bit paralyzed. That wheel is actually a big revelation. It's for the previous generation truck, but I like it much better and the one which came with the truck was totally trashed. It was the worst part of the truck, and that's really saying something.
Now I need to save for brake parts.
As I am putting together the column, I am getting really frustrated. I didn't really properly clean and paint those brackets. The underdash area has the typical grime and mess as you can see from that photo. I feel like I'm being a bit hurried, but I really don't want to get a toothbrush out and figure out how to clean and paint all of that so nobody can ever see it, but then again painting the cab will be really hard with all of those nasty dirty areas. I am a bit demotivated.
I also purchased an intermediate shaft from an XJ because they are far more rigid - no rag joint - but I am conflicted. The box end will need to be modified because it is looking for a double D whereas I will be coming in with a spline. That's not insurmountable, though. The shaft I bought and a hardly-inconsequential $60 doesn't look that great (it was used) and the intermediate shaft I have from the truck looks pretty terrible as well. They are actually pretty pricey to buy new, and I can't find parts to get for mine (especially the rubber boot) so I am toying with the idea of making something from scratch.
I am learning guitar, and trying to devote at least 1/2 hour each night to that, and my time out in the garage is getting even more dear. Piddling time is hard to come by.
What say ye regarding the shaft? Any opinions or ideas? I don't really love any of the options.
I do love that wheel though.
Cut and weld the two together?
Also, the underdash: spray it with brake cleaner, brush paint black. How ive done a few with good success
I have not been idle in these past few days. I finally did some conduit in the garage so I could get some lighting going. Check this out!
I also have been rebuilding my intermidiate shaft, but it's greasy and ugly, so no pictures for you.
YAY!
Was that all "Buttoned-up" or just good enough for video proof of concept?
Brakes next? Are there technical uncertainties there or just plug and play?
Pete
NOHOME said:YAY!
Was that all "Buttoned-up" or just good enough for video proof of concept?
Brakes next? Are there technical uncertainties there or just plug and play?
Pete
A few small remaining items, but mostly all legit and painted.
Indeed brakes are next. I have to decide if I am leaving OEM stuff there or doing what I really want and using a wilwood d52 aluminum caliper at each corner. The brake lines are there same regardless so I'll likely start there. I also need to handle the brake bias adjuster because the OEM deal is super ugly and I don't like it. If I do calipers all around then I'll need to figure out a period looking master, or hide the master under the dashboard.
Part of me says leave the OEM stuff for now because it's fine, and upgrade after the truck is running. OEM calipers and wheel cylinders are cheap.
Also wow that noise is just the tires sliding on the concrete. It doesn't sound good in the video, but to me after midnight it sounded like a symphony.
I gonna vote OEM for a few reasons.
1-Money seems tighter than a snare drum chez Tuna and why go into that limbo?
2-OEM is not a bad thing. Don't see a lot of roadcourse work in the truck's future, and you will not be asking the more spendy Willwood to do anything that the OEM cant handle; in other words, you wont know the difference while driving, and you WILL be driving.
3-Aftermarket stuff always turns into a project of its own. Nothing fits and you end up with a situation like your sway bar that needed a bunch of noodling before it was done.
Project planning 101....The Willwoods are a feature (bling) but not really a benefit (to your project). So they don't make the requirements list.
Just a thought.
You mentioned that you were going to start priming panels. I am assuming epoxy. What brand are you looking at?
You make a good case. I think you're right, but let me give you the counterpoint:
The original premise for this build is "GM+, what GM could have built in 1972 if they pulled out all the stops". I am actually working on a novelette to describe the scene, because the build has to have some cohesion behind it. In 1972 they had four wheel discs and aluminum calipers. The D52 is heavily based on a GM design, so it presumably could have been built in 1972 as well.
Now to bolster your position, and to explain why I will follow that path, I turn to the engine. It's pretty pathetic. It definitely doesn't count as GM+. GM+ would be an aluminum block, aluminum head, stout little package. As you said, money is tight. Happily, engine swapping this thing is equally easy now as it will be after it's painted and running and driving. Thus, I am leaving the engine alone other than a quick refreshing until the other items are done. Someday down the road, when it's painted and driving, I can just do an engine swap in a few days and it'll be good. The brakes likely call into this same category. Four calipers plus provisions to mount the rears will probably cost, in real world money, like $1000. That's money and time better spent on paint. I can get OEM master, calipers and wheel cylinders for a quarter of that cost, and it will still stop pretty well.
As far as paint, yes, it's getting epoxy and then the bodywork continues. I have no clue as to which brand other than SPI has been recommended over and over, so I was going to start there.
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