Well, I can give you a quick Knurled EZ Engine Assembly Parts List, and quickie imspection guide.
You will need.
2mm apex seal and spring kit. I strongly recommend the Mazda seals, even though they are like 3x as much as Atkins, because they have lower friction (more power, less heat, less wear) and they are much MUCH more housing friendly. I use the Atkins seals because they are proven to be okay at 10k+. You are not going to spin your engime that fast.
Side seal and corner seal springs. Use the FD (flat spring) type corner seal springs, they stabilize the rotor better.
You really should replace the corner seals, they wear as much or more than the side seals do. Use Mazda, not aftermarket.
Mazda intake manifold gasket. Much easier to buy than make because of the little FU passages for the injector bleeds.
RX-8 front cover gasket. It's metal. Solves the front cover O-ring blowout problem because there is no O-ring to blow out.
A certain amount of 2.2mm Viton O-ring cord stock, I think it is like 2 or 3 feet times four, for the inner coolant seal. You can cheap out and use 2mm neoprene/buna cord stock for the outer coolant seal since it doesn't get exposed to combustion heat. The Viton is over 10x more expensive so you can shave bucks by not using it. It comes to about $20 an engine for everything you need.
To inspect:
The biggest thing to inspect are the coolant seal lands on the iron housings. The inner walls can break away and leave the O-ring unsupported. I did a cursory glance while I was concentrating the engine and they all seemed okay, but I didn't look very close.
I think I mentioned before what to look for as far as side seal grooving on the side housings goes. This is probably what killed the engine in the car as I noticed there is a K&N filter sticker on the airbox, if you do not clean and reoil for every event the dust that gets by will eat the engine.
Side seals need to be inspected for gap to the corner seals and height. Side seals are select fit to every slot, so they much be kept in order per rotor. This is why I suggested ample workbench space. The gap is ideally .002" or so but to be honest anything under .004" is fine, and half of that would be from worn corner seals anyway. If the gaps are .006+ then it is side seal time. Likewise, measure each side seal's height. Mazda does not specify a height, just a protrusion, but I don't like that. Measure the height at the ends and in the middle. I pitch seals that have more than .001-.002" taper at the ends.
The tighter you can get the side seal clearances, the more low end and mid range torque the engine will make. The difference is pretty dramatic. At high RPM any slapped together junk will run, but you need tight sealing if you want to make power anywhere else.
The oil control O-rings all looked awesome. But I do not know if I put the front rotor in the front and the rear rotor in the rear. The only difference is the side seal springs, they are directional and have a locking tang to keep the O-ring housing from spinning. So if you do pull it apart before I get there, that needs to be determined before any documenting happens.
Eyeball the bearings for flaking. I doubt there are issues but look anyway. It is 100% normal for the layer of Babbit or whatever it is to be worn away at the seams and in some places. Flaking and scoring is bad though.
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