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ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
9/18/18 7:39 a.m.

In reply to Lof8 :

Nice, may have to try and get out there. How’s the LS swap going?

Lof8
Lof8 GRM+ Memberand Dork
9/18/18 8:10 a.m.

In reply to ctk339 :

It's going pretty well.  Some weeks I make good progress and other weeks, other stuff takes priority.  I'm getting close to putting the engine in the bay, but there's still much to do after that.

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
9/18/18 1:37 p.m.

I’m about at the same point, motor hopefully in after some more welding and painting, maybe next weekend if I get a lot done this week. Rebuilt the ls1 and made all the accessory mounts and oil pan, so hopefully that works out.

still need to buy the transmission, that won’t be cheap, should be my last large purchase at least other than a nice racing seat 

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
9/20/18 7:24 a.m.

I have about fifty more holes to fill in or plug all over the car, not the most satisfying work

dean1484
dean1484 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
9/20/18 7:56 a.m.

Years ago it squared up a featherlight modified car and put a 4age with a t50 in it. Since it was an older square chassis it was just a matter of changing the axle tube and axle on the quick change 9” and installing matching front a arms. That thing was a hoot to drive. It was a go cart on Velcro.  The G’s that car could pull on slicks was crazy.  I don’t know what happened to that car. It was not mine I was just tasked with squaring it up and making it work correctly. 

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
9/29/18 4:24 p.m.

 

Doubled checked the clearance after the panels welded in, still fit, pretty tight though. Also got some paint today but didn’t get any pics 

finally filled what seemed like 50 holes in the firewall and floor 

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
9/30/18 6:36 p.m.

 

Painted with brush oil rust oleum hammered paint 

unevolved
unevolved SuperDork
10/6/18 9:07 p.m.

Have you thought about getting rid of the truck arms for a 3-link?  I'd be annoying, yeah, but worthwhile IMO.  Those things will axle hop like a motherberkeleyer under braking, and there's some good gains to be found in unsprung weight getting rid of those monstrosities.

I spend all of my time with stock cars these days, so I'm interested to see where this goes.

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/7/18 7:31 a.m.

I’ve considered it, maybe on another car, or later on, they’re simple to get me out on the track this point

 

whats you’re opinion on the front suspension? I think I’ve got it sorted out for the most part, though it’s been so long I almost forgot what I did. Believe the spindle had two holes on top so I was able to adjust the king pin angle. Then I needed a half inch longer ball joint to make the height even. I was able to find nice upper control arms on one of my trips to North Carolina that seemed to be off a road course car

 

also, looking to order the transmission somewhat soon, but am curious on the ratios. Have any recommendations? Believe most people are saying around a 2.0 first gear. With the quick change I could adjust at least to make that easier to drive around the shop for testing 

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/7/18 7:33 a.m.

Also does anyone have opinions on the nylon braided hose for pressure lines vs stainless? 

 

Im going to use earls perform o flex for the suction line as they have an inner and outer stainless braid so they shouldn’t collapse, but I’ve got probably a good 20 or more feet that will be oil pressure line, and also some water line

 

i was looking to uses russel pro classic hose, never dealt with the nylon stuff before though 

 

think I’ll easly have over $500 just in hose, been able to score used fittings on eBay to hopefully cover that

frenchyd
frenchyd UltraDork
10/7/18 7:49 a.m.

In reply to ctk339 : totally depends on your engine.  A relatively stock engine without a really wild camshaft? Yes go as wide as possible in gear ratios.  

An extremely highly tuned engine with a max lift max duration type camshaft that only makes power in a narrow power band, go to  a very narrow or close ratio.  

In fact you might consider a Saenz type transmission that allows you to quickly change  gear ratios.  That combined with a quick change rear end will allow you to  select exactly the right gearing for each corner of the race track. 

Exiting a corner exactly at the right point in the engines power curve will ensure optimum performance.  

Oh and those quick gearset change type transmissions usually are 5 speed in the first place. Unlike a street transmission 5th or high gear is not an overdrive. That makes the ratios at least 20% closer than a 4 speed gearbox.  

They are also Dog ring gears which means you shift without the clutch making shifts much faster so you spend a lot less time shifting.  

 

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/7/18 8:18 a.m.

It’s a decent camshaft, probably more towards the wild side but not quite there. Around 250* duration  

I was looking at g force south racing transmissions, just the four speed, should be compatible with all the parts I have and fit in the car

Wonder if emulating the Muncie close ratio would be good

2.2

1.64

1.28

1

 

 

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/7/18 7:11 p.m.

Back in, lots of lines to make, fuel pump to figure out, ignition, a bit overwhelming 

need to finish the rear end also, just a few seals

need to rebuild all the brakes also

unevolved
unevolved SuperDork
10/8/18 8:45 p.m.
ctk339 said:

I’ve considered it, maybe on another car, or later on, they’re simple to get me out on the track this point

 

whats you’re opinion on the front suspension? I think I’ve got it sorted out for the most part, though it’s been so long I almost forgot what I did. Believe the spindle had two holes on top so I was able to adjust the king pin angle. Then I needed a half inch longer ball joint to make the height even. I was able to find nice upper control arms on one of my trips to North Carolina that seemed to be off a road course car

 

also, looking to order the transmission somewhat soon, but am curious on the ratios. Have any recommendations? Believe most people are saying around a 2.0 first gear. With the quick change I could adjust at least to make that easier to drive around the shop for testing 

I'm not really sure what to tell you on the front suspension if you're looking for alignment specs, I would start with making sure the heights of the pickup points are symmetric L/R.  They should be symmetric in XY (or at least within build variance) but Z heights may vary, esp. if it wasn't built as a road race car to start off with.  I'm a design engineer, not a race engineer, so I might not be super helpful on setup specs.

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/13/18 7:57 p.m.

unevolved
unevolved SuperDork
10/13/18 9:29 p.m.

Looking good!

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/14/18 7:34 p.m.

 

BMWGeoff
BMWGeoff GRM+ Memberand New Reader
10/15/18 1:00 p.m.

Following this, as it could be very helpful to my build as well.

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/16/18 12:31 p.m.

16an stainless limes are no fun, the nylon stuff is easy. Going to be busy on this side, maybe kind of ugly. Going to get some heat shield on stuff close to the exhaust 

 

 

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/18/18 12:44 p.m.

Think I’m going to get a four speed from here 

 

https://www.hightowerracingtransmissions.com/

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/19/18 5:05 a.m.

Apparently it’s critical that you use the same brand hose with the same brand fittings 

Or at least I hope, these hoses are a real pain

 

 

 

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/21/18 8:12 p.m.

unevolved
unevolved SuperDork
10/21/18 9:21 p.m.
ctk339 said:

Apparently it’s critical that you use the same brand hose with the same brand fittings 

Or at least I hope, these hoses are a real pain

I've ran into that problem before.  It's not necessarily that is HAS to be the same brand, but there are some differences in fitting sizes between product lines.  Different hose ODs for the same ID, things like that.  Should be able to compare datasheets to figure out what's compatible.

Kinda like the temp stickers on the ignition coils, I haven't seen that before.

ctk339
ctk339 New Reader
10/21/18 9:27 p.m.

In reply to unevolved :

I just ordered some aeroquip line, hope that solves my issue, I’m only having the problem with the 12an, the 16an didn’t seem to care, though some fittings were harder to get on than others

starting to get depressing buying more fittings and lines, still have to plump some the water and a few power steering hoses also

unfortunately the coils have a weird plug from motec, so I don’t think I can use them, the they don’t unplug from it as they are epoxied to each coil, I ended up ordering some used coils to use instead, hopefully i can sell these 

edit: I’ve been getting reducer fittings from fragola also, this allowed me to have the 16an feed like going to the 12an auction, I’m going to have a 12an line going to the 10an feed at the engine also

unevolved
unevolved SuperDork
10/22/18 8:45 p.m.
ctk339 said:

In reply to unevolved :

I just ordered some aeroquip line, hope that solves my issue, I’m only having the problem with the 12an, the 16an didn’t seem to care, though some fittings were harder to get on than others

starting to get depressing buying more fittings and lines, still have to plump some the water and a few power steering hoses also

unfortunately the coils have a weird plug from motec, so I don’t think I can use them, the they don’t unplug from it as they are epoxied to each coil, I ended up ordering some used coils to use instead, hopefully i can sell these 

edit: I’ve been getting reducer fittings from fragola also, this allowed me to have the 16an feed like going to the 12an auction, I’m going to have a 12an line going to the 10an feed at the engine also

What connectors are on the coils?  Got any close-ups? I've got some friends that work at Motec, I bet we can figure it out.  It's annoying in that you can't just throw on a coil from a parts house, yeah, but that connection is a common failure point and potting it increases reliability.

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