dz302 build

Some DZ302 Info

I didn't read the entire thing but seemed most of the info was on the level.

Do as much reading as you can. Technology has come a very, very long way since the late 60's.

I fully understand the drive to build something capable of sustaining high rpm's.

On those nights when I finally get to bed with the potential to get a decent amount of sleep my mind fires up the "fantasy engine build lobe" and I lay there dreaming of a 8.2" deck Windsor with 4.125" bores, a 3" stroke, 6" rods and a nasty idle. Then I think about wrist pins and oil control rings and realize that combo is unpossible. Maybe 5.7" rods...okay 5.4"...well, I like 351's too.

The kind of engine that is almost too volatile to DD yet can live at 8,000 rpm all day.

Of course if you're thinking somewhere between $2,500 and $5,000 why not mix and match 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 LS variants?

Check this out: http://www.fastnuf.com/borestroke.html

Best of luck to you and welcome aboard!

In reply to The_Jed:

Hey your machinest.ok if i find a old 327 block and take off heads before buying.what would the measurement be for one that hasnt been rebuilt or rebuilt too much?

What kind of tool do i need to check cylinder walls?

Maybe if you had a measurement for 30 over too.i dont want to go past 40 over.

In reply to The_Jed:

Hey i like that link.makes me think. Ive read some threads too about a caprice with 400.thats suppose to have a good something but done forgot.they got these junk yards close and there pull and save places.im going to hit them soon.they always getting lots of cars like over 20 a day.who knows what i might find.they even have a classic section.man when i get paided friday ill be taking a look.

How you guys think that 302 will do in a boat? Ive been working on boats alot fixing and selling.just wonder how it would do.they say in a boat running a engine is like do 80 up a step hill pulling a trailer.im always seeing nice boats with bad motors for cheap.

Hey, I see that you were trying to format your text, breaking it up line by line like i did mine. Our forum software requires a double space before each "enter" to get it to line up like you want.

I just went back and edited your post so that it looks like what you were trying for.

ilovevintage wrote: Really i didnt even click on it. like your avatar.

Thanks, it is a picture of what I'm building

JoeyM wrote: Thanks, it is a picture of what I'm building out of washing machines and street signs

You really need to look at this build

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/my-datsun-build/18604/page1/

ilovevintage wrote: In reply to The_Jed: Hey your machinest.ok if i find a old 327 block and take off heads before buying.what would the measurement be for one that hasnt been rebuilt or rebuilt too much? What kind of tool do i need to check cylinder walls? Maybe if you had a measurement for 30 over too.i dont want to go past 40 over.

Disclaimer: I've never done the machine work on an engine. I've machined demanding, precision parts but they've been used in valve bodies, drag lines, mining trucks, rock crushers (You'd be surprised how demanding some of the tolerances were for the rock crusher bushings and wear plates.), etc...

I'd check for a ring groove where the pistons reach TDC.

Your best bet with an unknown engine would be to take it to a machine shop that specializes in engine building and have some measurements taken. There's no substitute for a practiced hand with precision measuring equipment.

With a 327 a virgin bore would be 4", give or take a few thousandths. I wouldn't buy a used/worn older engine of any brand with a .060" over bore that's due for another rebuild.

I'm not sure of the original manufacturing tolerances but I think .003"-.005" is nominal ptw clearance. (4.000" piston diameter, 4.003"-4.005" bore diameter.)

Then, if it's been rebuilt, you're gambling that it was done right.

Again, I don't know the actual tolerances for the bore diameter but I assume:

4.000"-4.005" = virgin bore

4.030"- 4.035" = .030" over

4.060"- 4.065" = .060" over

Honestly though, building an engine is a HUGE can of worms.

I was considering blueprinting an EJ25 short block I had in my basement a few years ago but the knowledgeable and wise people here opened my eyes and pulled me back from the precipice.

In reply to ilovevintage:

If you want to read a really good build of a vintage Z/28, including cloning the DZ302, then read this site. If you want to skip all of the car and concentrate on the motor, here is the link.

You do not want to buy any "NASCAR" heads on eBay. If they are for the SB2.2 they won't bolt up to the 327 block anyway. And they are called VALVES not VALUES. The size isn't really something you need to be worrying about right now anyway. First step is finding a block, crank, rods, and pistons and getting all of that assembled.

In reply to Javelin:

Thanks for that link.yeah them were the heads i was talking about.what would they bolt up to then?

In reply to ilovevintage:

An SB2.2 NASCAR block. The Chevy NASCAR motors have zero in common with any actual production Chevy V8's (Same story on the Fords & Dodges).

Find a 327 block and a 283 crank, that's your first step.

In reply to Javelin:

Well that sucks.didnt they use real motors out of cars in the old days?does gm sell them to them?

In reply to ilovevintage:

The motors haven't been production since the 70's, of course neither have the bodies or chassis or suspensions...

So back to your DZ302, have you read J Rho's Camaro build yet? Do you have a garage/shop to put an engine on a stand to build? Do you realize that 6,750 RPM is all a stock 302 will give?

In reply to Javelin: How about a homade engine stand? You got any blueprints.

I was checking out that build.6750 rpms ok with me.i really dont never let them go above 5,000 really.how many mil secs you think it take that 302 to get there?im going to read some more of that.would be nice to get some new old stock stuff if i could find it.

In reply to ilovevintage:

A good engine stand is less than $75 at Harbor Freight. If you can't afford that, you can't afford to build an engine.

If you aren't going to go over 5,000 RPM's, then why are you building a DZ 302? Any old SBC will spin at 5K!

In reply to Javelin:

I was talking about other everyday motors.

In reply to ilovevintage:

You know what dont think im ready to do that 302 build too much.i think im just going to hit the junk yard find a nice 350 or something.who knows what ill find.im going to hit classic section first.maybe ill just get a body and do body work and deal with engine later.i noticed you have to havespecial stuff for when a motor runs high rpms.and air condition and stuff not forsure how much all this performance stuff will run.if i do get a body or engine ill be back. Thanks

ilovevintage wrote: i noticed you have to havespecial stuff for when a motor runs high rpms.and air condition and stuff not forsure how much all this performance stuff will run.

"Estimate how long and how much, then triple it. You won't be far wrong." - Jack French, writing in the 750 Club's magazine. (Quoted in Race and Rally Car Sourcebook)

[disclaimer: that's his rule of thumb for complete car builds, not engines alone.]

This thread probably shouldn't be in the Projects section since there's no project happening. "if i do get a body or engine ill be back" doesn't say good things about the future of this discussion.

In reply to pres589:

Hey ive been working out in sun last few days carrying brick,mud right now i dont want to do nothing.you know what i wont be back.

In reply about ilovevintage:

Yeah, definitely 15 and not serious. Good bye.

This looked like train wreck in slow motion. I am impressed with everyone cheering him on. I truely know where to go when I need enablers.

In reply to slow:

Ok guys heres what i got should be alot easier to build.just bought a 99 camry le with a 2.2.engine blew on way home.only payed 375.should i start a new thread in project builds?.i know i can find a motor for around 200.

Yes, definitely.

[I'm glad to see you're going to stick around and make a build thread.]