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BA5
BA5 Reader
2/17/20 9:40 p.m.

Glad it's back to running again!

That's a good looking sedan!

Hoondavan
Hoondavan Reader
2/27/20 10:17 p.m.

I'm still hearing more noise from the rear-end that I should expect.  I'm pretty sure the rear wheel bearings are toast.  I also know one of the axles is probably bad (boot was torn when I bought it and it moves way too easily), and the other axle appears to be aftermarket.  I bought a used set of OEM (GKN/Loebro) axles, so I'll plan to swap them both when I do the wheel bearings.  Bearings, nuts, lock plates, and dust caps have been ordered.

I've been working nonstop for the last few weeks, so I may have to wait for things to slow down before I can tackle this.

I've been reading lots to DIYs about the process.  Bentley manual says to hammer the hub from the back...1 1/4 socket should work.  3-jaw puller or a hub separator also work.  Most of the bearing removals I've researched use an off the shelf removal tool tool (threaded rod w/attachment).  I did see a DIY where the guy used a pvc pipe, a threaded rod and some custom washers.  I've also seen a few write=ups that didn't use a threaded press at all and just used a hammer and an old bearing to hammer things in/out. I have a few days before the parts show up, so i'll start pulling together the tools I need.  NAPA charges ~$70 to rent their tools, and it's a little unclear if the front or rear bearing removal kit will work. Advance Auto didn't have a wheel bearing removal set, so I'll have to check anothe rstore.  I'm also tempted to get a threaded and some jumbo sockets.  Any suggestions?

I read a DIY post that suggests a Mustang front hub puller can be used to pull the axles back in.  It was <$15 on ebay, so I bought it. 

 

Hoondavan
Hoondavan Reader
3/14/20 3:53 p.m.

axle and wheel bearing replacement conpleted.  I'll get to the other side some other time.   Pretty straightforward job, with the right tools. The car does drive better, but i can still hear noise at low speedsfrom the front end indicating both front bearings are bad as well.  I'll double check to make sure the calipers aren't hanging up..but the bearings are likely shot.

Use a  30mm thin wall socket to break the axle nut.  Renove the locking ring around the nut first, then put the wheel back on.  I had to drill through the locking ring so i could pry it out.  It's easier to loosen the nut with the wheel on the ground...they're tight!

Loosen the 6 hex bolts where the axle connects to the diff.  Make sure you have the right tools.  I broke my HF 8mm, and they replaced the set under warranty. I was relieved when the second one didn't break.

Remove the brake disc and caliper.

I pushed the end of the axle through the hub using a cheapo 2 jaw puller from HF.  

Remove the hub from the trailing arm.  The bently manual says to hammer from behind.  There's not much room w/the exhaust in the way so I borrowed a slide hammer from Advance auto.  The lug bolt attachment was too big,  I put a couple of washers on the back of the hub and that was enough.

Next step is to remove the wheel bearing. Wheel bearing Removal kits are expensive.  The good ones are a few hundred.  The HF set is close to $80.  Even the loaner sets at Advance require a few hundred $$ deposit. I rolled the dice and bought a $30 set on Amazon and it worked great.  Big win.  Remember to remove the circlip before trying to remove the bearing

I tapped the new wheel bearing in w/a hammer and block of wood.  Once it was flush i used the old bearing to drive it all of the way back in.  Replace circlip.

I should probably invest in a jumbo socket set.  That wouls have sped things up a little.

I tapped the hub back in and used the wheel bearing press to bring it all of the way back in.  Put a little oil on the parts before you press them back together.

Getting the axles back in can be notoriously hard.  I read a DIY with a link to a generic ford puller to help bring the axles back into the hub.  Fail:  it didn't fit the axle thread.  I was fine without it...but I did waste $15.  

 

Hoondavan
Hoondavan Reader
5/31/20 9:43 p.m.

I turned 40 a few weeks ago.  I woke up early w/ the pups and since SWMBWO and Mini-me were sleeping i went for a drive.  It's tough to find good driving roads in FL, but it's easy to find places to drive to.

I decided to swap the other axle today. Unfortunately, i failed.  I knew it was an aftermarket axle.  There was no lockimg ring on the axle nut and the axle nut was 32mm...not 30mm.. A quick trip to Advance Auto and i had the right tools.  Unfortunalely, it snapped my HF breaker bar.  I tried my craftsman ratchet with a cheater bar and broke the ratchet as well.  Fail.  Maybe i should finally buy an impact gun.

 

 

Hoondavan
Hoondavan Reader
6/1/20 8:36 a.m.

Axle nut is off.  HF replaced my 3/8" breaker bar with the 1/2" breaker bar ($2 upcharge).   My HF floor jack handle works great as a cheater bar.. 

The the 3/8" breaker bar was the perfect size for tough bolts.  They're only $12... I'm already kicking myself for only coming home with the 1/2".  I also bought a ratchet to replace my broken craftsman one.  It's a bit of an inconvenience when stuff breaks...but HF is nearby and since they do replace stuff like that no-questions-asked...I'll keep shopping there until I can afford better stuff.

Two of my jackstands were part of the recall so I was at $0 out-of-pocket with my gift card.  I replaced the two 3-ton jackstands w/a pair of Big Red 6-ton stands. It's kind of a pain getting the car up that high, since my jack doesn't quite reach that high...but I figured it'd be good to have a heavier pair of stands in case I need to work on my minivan or Jeep.

Hoondavan
Hoondavan Reader
6/2/20 6:28 a.m.

Axle and wheel bearing swapped. Removal was easy, but the bearing race separated and i had to dremel it off...which seemed to take forever.

The car drives better, but the brakes sound like they're dragging a little at low speed.  This isn't new, but I haven't driven the car enough to know if it'll go away or not...it's been mostly sitting for 6 months now.  The wheels spin freely, but i can hear a light scraping if i have the windows down.

I greased the calipers when i replaced the lines a few months ago.  I also bled them again.   Maybe i need to rebuild or replace them?  I'll have to check the forums.  I didn't press them all the way back into the cylinders (maybe I should have?).

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