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bluej GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
9/25/17 12:00 p.m.

Is there a known place where the bubble(s) usually are?  Can you splice a Tee in to that location that runs to a simple vent valve?

95maxrider Reader
9/25/17 12:10 p.m.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:

Cooling system not circulating does not compute with overflowing from expansion tank- that water is getting pushed somehow.  I think you have a big berkeleying bubble in there somewhere.  How high are you getting the front of the car?  My usual procedure is this:  

  1. Get radiator cap as high as possible relative to other cooling system parts
  2. Fill with water
  3. Jiggle all the hoses until it doesn't bubble or take any more coolant
  4. Start engine
  5. With engine running, jiggle all the hoses some more, make sure you get the heater lines too
  6. Use any available bleed ports to bleed more air out
  7. As a final step, do whatever the manufacturer says to do when filling coolant

Yeah, the car is on my angled driveway with the front on ramps.  I guess it's at least a foot higher than the rear of the car.  I sure hope it's just a big bubble, because I don't want to think about the alternatives.  I'm following the directions in the Bentley and Pelican How-To books to the tee.

95maxrider Reader
9/25/17 12:11 p.m.
bluej said:

Is there a known place where the bubble(s) usually are?  Can you splice a Tee in to that location that runs to a simple vent valve?

Not that I'm aware of....

bluej GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
9/25/17 12:17 p.m.

Where does the overflow actually enter the rad?  Is the bubble in the rad itself?

95maxrider Reader
9/25/17 12:53 p.m.
bluej said:

Where does the overflow actually enter the rad?  Is the bubble in the rad itself?

Err, it's kinda weird.  When I pour coolant into the expansion tank, it drains into a long tube that runs along and goes into the DS of the block.  From there, it comes out of the thermostat housing through the upper radiator hose, and finally into the rad.  The lower rad hose goes into the other side of the thermostat housing.  There is a small overflow hose at the top of the rad that dumps into the expansion tank.

jfryjfry HalfDork
9/25/17 6:25 p.m.

The rear shocks should be fine at full extension even with the weight of the suspension briefly on them. I would imagine that your springs would still be contained but you could easily check it with a jack in your driveway after disconnecting the rear sway bar.


95maxrider Reader
10/18/17 11:29 a.m.

Hey everyone!  In case you haven't heard, there are fixes out now to enable viewing of the locked out Photobucket pictures!

If you're using Google Chrome, go to the three dots on the right side of the screen and click them. A drop down should appear. Hover your mouse over "More Tools," and when the next drop down appears, click on extensions. Go to the link towards the bottom that says "Get more extensions." In the search box, type "Photobucket Fix," and hit enter. Click the install button and once it's done, you should be able to see Photobucket pictures again.

For Firefox users, click on the three bars on the right side of the screen, then click on add-ons. Click search for "Photobucket hotlink" and click install. Same result.

95maxrider Reader
10/18/17 12:20 p.m.

I need some advice about what to do with my spring rates when I remove both sway bars. The car is on JVAB offroad Bilstein-based shocks, and has/had stock sway bars. Front springs are 12" 250 lb, rears are 7" 350 lb (although I'm probably going to try and squeeze some 8" springs in there). I recently removed my FSB in an effort to get rid of understeer when on course (it helped), and I think I would like to also remove the rear to help me put down power and get better wheel articulation. I believe that I will need to raise my spring rates to compensate for the lack of sway bars, but I'm not an engineer and can't calculate how much I should change. If I had to guess, I would start with 300f/400r, but it's just a guess. Can anyone comment on how I should go about this? I can't exactly buy a bunch of different springs and try them all out, because that would be too expensive on my tight budget.

Thanks in advance!

bluej GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
10/18/17 12:29 p.m.

Why not just try unhooking the sway first to see how the rates feel?  Could do a few runs w/ it hooked and a few w/ it unhooked in the same heat for a pretty direct comparison.  Then tune front/rear rates as desired.

95maxrider Reader
10/18/17 12:46 p.m.
bluej said:

Why not just try unhooking the sway first to see how the rates feel?  Could do a few runs w/ it hooked and a few w/ it unhooked in the same heat for a pretty direct comparison.  Then tune front/rear rates as desired.

I haven't had good luck doing "quick" disconnects/reconnects of the RSB on this car.  I remember struggling to get it hooked back up even on my lift, so doing it between runs in a field doesn't seem likely.  I'll probably run the last event with no RSB, but I just wanted to put some feelers out there to see where people thought this might lead.

95maxrider Reader
12/13/17 10:33 a.m.

Well everyone, I pretty much let this thread die when I was busy doing the motor swap, and then the Photobucket debacle happened, and it's taken me a while to devise a proper long term solution for hosting my pictures.  Anyways, let's do some updates!  I had my share of problems after installing the motor, so I want to detail the resolutions of them before dumping a load of pictures on you.

The first problem I encountered were the four fuel trim codes.  I had marked my primary O2 sensors when I installed them in the manifolds, but I somehow got them mixed up when plugging them into the harness.  When I swapped them around my idle immediately cleared up and the fuel trim codes never came back.  Lesson learned, and now my markings on their wires are much more visible.  This also cleared up my rough running issues, where sometimes the car felt like it was bogging and then recovering.

The next problem was the intermittent starting.  I first checked the wires going to the starter, but they were all tight, so I eventually remembered that I had installed the BimmerWorld clutch stop.  Sure enough, on their site they mention that it can cause starting problems if not adjusted correctly.  My problems were two-fold: the stop had worked its way loose, and had come up too high, which kept the pedal from depressing the clutch switch button.  However, even after I got it nice and tight, it still looked like it wasn't fully depressing the switch, so I glued a stack of pennies together, then glued them all to the back of the clutch pedal.  This allowed the pedal to fully depress the switch, and my starting issues haven't come back since!

The next issue was getting the cooling system to burp correctly.  After it was all said and done, the solution for me seemed to be revving the motor to 3000-4000 rpm for 10-20 seconds a few times while up on ramps.  Previously, I had only revved it to 2000 rpm for 5-10 seconds a few times.  It seems that wasn't enough to really get the coolant moving around, and after increasing the revving speed and the duration of revving, I have not had any problems burping coolant.  I ran some Evaporust cooling system cleaner through the car because the passages looked pretty nasty compared to my old motor, which involved doing two full fills with just water after running the cleaner to really clean everything out, so I certainly got lots of practice burping the system.  It's now back to running 50/50 BMW coolant, and everything is running smoothly and cool!

95maxrider Reader
12/19/17 2:25 p.m.

I put together this car almost two years ago, but due to all sorts of headaches, I've probably only put 3,000 miles on the car. It has only made it to 4-5 rally-x events because of all the problems. Well, I found a new problem to add to the list. After an event two months ago I was doing a post-race inspection and noticed that one of my AKG 95A (their softer compound) diff bushings had cracked:

I was pretty confidant that I had done my homework before buying all the parts for my car, and common forum lore had me believe that because the diff is not a stressed member like it is on the E30, and that I could combine different stiffness bushings for the diff and subframe without worrying about problems like this. IIRC my aluminum subframe bushings are from BW.

I called up AKG about the broken bushing and they told me they are incompatible with aluminum subframe bushings and that they would not help cover any cost of replacements. I mentioned that if they were so sure of this incompatibility, it sure would have been helpful for them to clearly put that information on their pages selling these products so as to avoid problems like this.

The woman I spoke with said I could TRY to keep using the aluminum subframe bushings and replace my diff bushings with the much stiffer 75D material, but said the best bet would be to use the 75D in both locations. I assume I will have to drop the entire rear subframe to do the diff bushings, right? So it wouldn't be that much more effort to replace the subframe bushings while it's out.

What are your thoughts on all of this? Am I overlooking anything? I'm pretty sure I don't want to run aluminum diff bushings since this is still mostly a street car. Would you just run the 75D in both locations? I generally like AKG and their products, but I'm open to other recommendations.

95maxrider Reader
1/8/18 11:42 a.m.

So, who's ready for my much-delayed wrap up of my motor swap?  I finally got my website up and running, and with it being about 10* outside recently, and the garage hovering around freezing, now is as good of a time as any for some big updates.  Let's go!

So, to remind everyone of what brought on the motor replacement, I did compression and leak down tests and confirmed that cylinder 4 had bad rings, and 5 and 6 were on their way out too.  Cylinder 1 had a helicoil holding the spark plug in, so that cylinder couldn't be tested since the helicoil came out with the plug.  When driven hard, the motor was going through about a quart of oil every 100 miles, and the idle wasn't super smooth.  Add to that the fact that I couldn't get the coolant system to burp properly, I figured it was time to install a fresh motor.  I found one here on the forums, and since it looks like I never posted the info on it, here is the FS ad for future reference;


Miles: total 169,150
at 135,00 I did a top end rebuild, new head gasket, total head rebuild with VAC valve springs , INA lifters, BMW valve seals, cleaned valves and hot tanked head. Also installed N54 exhaust studs

M50 manifold conversion using Bimmerworld conversion kit
bimmerworld intake elbow (traction control delete)
stock pink top injectors
stock MAF
Beisan systems VANOS rebuild and anti-rattle kits
Riot racing cams
INA lifters
VAC upgraded valve springs
BMW valve seals, head gasket set, head bolts ect.
oil pan gasket
welded oil pump nut
this was all done at 135k miles

5k miles ago:
Saleri water pump (Saleri is the factory supplier to BMW)
80*c thermostat
aluminum thermo housing

I did a top end rebuild when i decided to do the Riot Racing cams. You pretty much need to strip the head down and new lifters are recommended. It was much easier to do with the head off the car so i removed it and decided to do the valve seals, lifters, cams, Beisan VANOS and other related parts all at the same time. I did the M50 Manifold at about 100k miles or so, made with a home made kit, i went with bimmerworlds conversion kit when i did the head, just made it easier. The engine seems to like the 15w-50 much better than the 10w-40 i was using before. no rattles with it, idles smooth.

Last compression test I did was about 5600 miles ago (July 2016), according to my records it was #1 175 #2 180 #3 175 #4 175 #5 170 #6 180

Using 15w-50 it only needed a half quart per 2500 miles.


So, all in all, sounds like a pretty healthy motor.  Time to get busy!  Josh (Irish44j) was nice enough to come over and lend a hand with both the removal of the old and re-installation of the new motor.  Thanks again Josh!

Some of this is going to be out of order, due to the hectic nature of the project and the long delay in posting it up, but it's all here.

I was curious to see what would happen if I cleaned the AC condenser, so I bought a can of cleaning solution from Home Depot and a fin straightening kit.  I spent all of one minute trying to straighten fins before I got bored and stopped.  The cleaning stuff certainly got some crap out, but I'm doubtful it was anything meaningful.

I did a lot of cleaning during this project...

In the end, I think I used my old IACV because after cleaning it was just a tad bit smoother than the one that came on the new motor.

More to come!

95maxrider Reader
1/18/18 9:47 a.m.

Jumping around a bit, let's talk clutch stops.  Before I did the motor swap my clutch pedal had the normal side to side play they all have, and I was intrigued by the idea of a clutch stop.  I decided to go the Home Depot route and make my own to see how well it would work.  I got an M10x1.5 30mm bolt from HD along with some thin anti-skid pads and put it in the car.  The clutch stop felt great....when my pedal actually went down straight like it's supposed to.  But due to the side to side play in the pedal, it would often slide off the side of the stop, rendering it useless.  Okay, fine.  At least I knew I liked the idea of a clutch stop, I just might need to spend $20 to get one that's a little bigger.  Needless to say, my thin little rubber pads disintegrated after a few days of driving, so something more heavy duty is going to be needed. 

So I broke down and bought the Bimmerworld clutch stop, and it's a lot beefier than the junk I had in there before:

All was well, except after I got the new motor running, I was having intermittent starting problems.  Turns out the BW clutch stop had backed out a bit and wasn't letting the clutch switch depress all the way, preventing the car from starting.  Even after snugging the clutch stop back down, I could see the plunger for the switch wasn't getting pushed down all the way, so I decided to improvise.  I super glued a bunch of pennies together, then glued them to the arm on the pedal, then reinforced the whole mess with some RTV.  Some 6 months later and it's still holding nicely, and I haven't had a single problem starting the car since!

Due to a variety of reasons, I decided to buy a whole new clutch/flywheel kit since it didn't look like my old clutch had much life left, and my flywheel had some nice hot spots on it.  I ended up going with a "SACHS-STAGE 2 HD RACE CLUTCH KIT+CHROMOLY FLYWHEEL" from Ebay for about $465:


It came with new bolts, a Sachs PP, some disc, and a 14 pound Chinese flywheel.  My old clutch/flywheel setup was likely an earlier version or variant of this kit.  My old flywheel didn't have the holes in the center, which meant it weighed about 2 pounds more than the new one.  Also, while the pressure plates had the same part number, the new one wasn't painted blue like the old one.  The reason I went with the "Stage 2" kit versus Stage 1 was that all the stage 1 kits had unsprung discs, and I didn't want that, so I had to go with the stage 2 kit.  They also offered kits with aluminum flywheels, but I wanted to stick with steel.

The kit came with a throw out bearing, but it was no-name Chinese junk, so I bought a nice Sachs unit to install instead:

I even bought the recommended spline grease:

And while I was in there (famous last words...) I replaced the old clutch line with this fancy one from BW that deletes the clutch delay valve:

And bought a new OEM slave cylinder.  BW shipped me a Febi by mistake originally, so I was able to compare the two when the correct OEM one arrived. 

And since these parts looked pretty tired, I got a new OEM clutch fork/arm, TOB guide tube, and spring:


95maxrider Reader
1/18/18 2:30 p.m.

While I had everything out, I decided to freshen things up a bit.  First up was the transmission that was covered in oil and dirt. 

I covered up the vent hole:

And got busy with purple power and my plastic wire brush drill bits:

I splurged on a brass clutch arm pivot pin:

It's a little tough to see, but the pivot arm was really worn down on both ends.  The throw out bearing guide tube was also scored pretty badly.

Lubed things with white lithium grease....

And finally put on the spline grease (not shown):


95maxrider Reader
1/21/18 7:49 a.m.

Moving on to the exhaust work, I decided to stay with the OEM manifolds rather than try to cobble something together to work with the cheap-o shorty headers that were included with the motor.  They would have needed a custom pipe fabricated to work with the OEM cat section, so I decided to keep it simple and stay stock.  The "new" motor also came with stock manifolds, which still had the original studs in them, while the manifolds on my car had the studs replaced with nuts and bolts.  I decided to use the manifolds that still had studs, so I got busy cleaning up all the flanges and bungs.

I decided to delete my SAP, so I got block off plates from Turner.

I picked up a set of the shorter M54 manifold studs:

And got them installed:

When I disassembled the car, I found that one of my muffler hangers had broken off, taking a piece of the muffler with it:

Thankfully, Brian (who did my rear shock towers) was kind enough to help me out and weld on a new hanger:

The tips were looking pretty nasty, so I cleaned them up real quick....

Since I was going to have to paint the new metal to keep it from rusting, I decided to strip the whole muffler and do the whole thing.  Much of the paint had chipped off all over it and it looked pretty dumpy.  Thankfully my angle grinder and a flap wheel made quick work of the paint removal:

I know I wasn't supposed to, but I couldn't help but smooth out some of the welds....

I cleaned everything up...

Got it ready...

And painted it:

So that muffler hanger ripping off one side put a lot of stress on the other hanger and its attachment points to the car.  Namely, one of the studs on the body sheared off, leaving me with nothing to properly attach the hanger to.  See the one towards the back of the picture:

So I bought a threaded sleeve-like thingy and a bolt.  I then cut the head off the bolt and assembled them with a bunch of red Loctite:

It wasn't pretty, but at least I had a stud I could use.  I upgraded some of the hardware for the hangers...

One of the hangers had ripped, so I bought a new one from BMW.  They are much stronger than the aftermarket ones, as seen here by me squeezing them.  BMW:


I had to make the hole bigger to allow the sleeve to pass through:

My car was also missing these reinforcement brackets, so I picked up a used set:

Almost ready to go:

It works!

One of the smaller hangers further up had also failed, so I got a new one of those and new gaskets:

And proceeded to install a used factory muffler that I picked up for a good price.  I wanted something quieter to use during the winter, and I'll put the aftermarket one back on for race season.

95maxrider Reader
1/25/18 8:53 a.m.

Another side project of the motor swap was the leaky gas tank.  The car had been smelling like fuel for quite some time, but I had been too busy dealing with whatever the current calamity was, and never got around to figuring out what was going on with the tank.  Well, with the car out of commission for a while, I had time to investigate.  This was the first sign of a leak:

Clearly, fuel was leaking out (this was all from the driver's side of the tank), and dust was sticking to it.  I popped off the cover under the back seat and was greeted by a mess of dried gunk:

With the motor already out of the car, I couldn't exactly turn the car on and see where it was leaking from, so I replaced the usual suspects.  The pump/cover on the PS was nice and clean, so I knew I didn't have to worry about that side.  First up was a new piece of fuel hose:

I also got a new gasket for the cap since the old one looked a little messed up:

After installing new fuel line hose clamps, I dusted the area to help track down any future leaks. 

Not long after I got the motor running, I smelled fuel and was greeted by this:

The leak appeared to be coming from the "inside" of the cover, and not the large round gasket I had replaced for the cover.  Was the new hose bad?  Was the hose clamp not tight enough?  What's happening here?  After much trial and error and cleaning, I found a potential cause:

So I drove 2 hours to go pick up a new/used pump thingy:

No cracks this time:

Oh, and while I was in there I replaced the fuel filter again...

Thankfully, after replacing the pump thingy, the leak was gone.  Hallelujah!


Moving on to the interior, I picked up a set of aluminum gauge rings off Ebay for $30 and installed them.  They're nice :)


Moving back to the motor now, the "new" motor's oil pan was leaking pretty badly, so I wanted to install a new gasket while it was out of the car.  But I had also been scared by forum lore about the potential for the S52's oil pickup tube to break, and given the rough conditions of rally-x, I figured a new pickup tube wouldn't be a bad idea.  Apparently the pickup tube from the 2.8 Z3s (and possibly others) is reinforced, so I decided to get one of those while I was in there (famous last words...).  But of course, I didn't stop there, oh no.  I came across a good deal for an oil pan with a VAC baffle already installed.  I've also read about oil starvation in these motors in track conditions, and while rally-x might not generate a ton of lateral g's, while I'm in there......

Thankfully, the previous owner of the pan had it cleaned up really nicely:

For whatever reason, this is how the inside of my "new" motor looked, which didn't inspire confidence:

I double checked that the oil pump nut had been tack welded like the PO had said:

The hardware was pretty nasty...

So naturally I had to clean it up:

Here's the stock S52 pickup tube:

And the reinforced Z3 tube:

The o-ring for the dipstick tube was destroyed...

But I had planned ahead and had new ones on hand:

And after careful application of some RTV, the bottom of my motor was reassembled, clean, and (hopefully) durable.

I slathered some RTV on top of the o-ring to make sure it didn't pop out or allow any dirt (rally-x is kinda messy) into the pan:

95maxrider Reader
1/26/18 10:09 a.m.

As mentioned earlier, my clutch pedal had a good bit of side to side play in it, which wasn't a great feeling.  After doing some reading on the subject, it sounded like just replacing the bushing didn't always solve the problem, as another pivot hole in the pedal can wear out and lead to play.  Since new pedals are less than $30, I figured it would be a smart thing to take care of while I was doing the job.  I'm glad I did, because I sure as hell don't ever want to work on these damn pedals again!

Here's the old pedal on top of the new pedal.  You can see that the bushing had already been replaced, and yet there was still slop.  Why?  Check out how oblong the center pivot hole is on the old pedal compared to the new one:

Yeah, I'm glad I replaced the pedal!  I bought the Oilite bronze clutch pedal bushings from Ireland Engineering:

As well as a new return spring.  I wasn't sure I needed one when I placed the order, but again, I'm glad I did, because when I went to disassemble my pedal I realized that the return spring had disappeared somewhere along the way and needed to be replaced.  With little cheap parts like this it's better to be safe than sorry!

And here it is with the return spring installed (along with new rubber thingys):

After straining my neck for many hours trying to wrangle all these tiny little things back together I finally got it all in, but when I gave the car power my brake lights stayed on, even without me touching the pedal.  Turns out the bracket the holds the brake pedal switch had gotten bent or something during the struggle, so I had to smash it around a bit until the brake lights behaved normally.  With a brand new pedal, bushings, and clutch stop, I must say that operating the car has gotten much more enjoyable.  Hooray for the little things!


Moving back to the motor, let's talk about rear main seals.  The PO of the motor said he had replaced it a while back, but I knew how hard the job becomes once the motor is back in the car, and since it was sitting there all nice like on a stand, I couldn't stop myself from installing a new one.  Rather than pay a lot more for a pre-assembled RMS (that includes a new metal section) I just bought the new seal and had to figure out how to properly install it.  The Bentley book mentions a product called Curil-T, which isn't super easy to find, but Ebay saved the day. 

While I was in the area, I figured it was also a good idea to replace the pilot bearing.  This of course required more tools, which I was quite happy to buy.  Tools are toys for adults, and I'm most certainly still a child on the inside. Since I didn't know which tool was going to work best in this application, I bought two cheap ones:

I had to drop the motor off the stand to do this one, so an old Hoosier stepped in to help:

First I got busy removing the old pilot bearing:

The old one was definitely worn out, as evidenced by free spinning and a good amount of noise.  The new one got to hang out in the freezer before installation, which made it quite easy.

Naturally, I cleaned up the cover plate:

Then applied the Curil-T:

Smushed it in there....

Made sure it was nice and flush:

Super-cleaned the block:

And reinstalled:

So between this and the new oil pan gasket, I feel pretty good about future oil leaks!  After 4-5 months of driving it's still bone dry, so I'm quite pleased by that!

Mezzanine Dork
1/26/18 11:00 a.m.

Just found this thread - love the detailed documentation!

Is there some sealant that goes between the block and the RMS carrier/cover plate? Or does the seal itself make connection against the block (in addition to the crank)?


Keep up the good work.

95maxrider Reader
1/26/18 11:52 a.m.
Mezzanine said:

Just found this thread - love the detailed documentation!

Is there some sealant that goes between the block and the RMS carrier/cover plate? Or does the seal itself make connection against the block (in addition to the crank)?


Keep up the good work.

Thanks!  I don't think any sealant goes between the cover plate and the block, but there is that large black crush gasket.  RTV is needed in certain areas around the oil pan, but not around the RMS cover.

95maxrider Reader
1/28/18 8:03 a.m.

Back to the interior!  To get easier access to the clutch pedal I wanted to remove the driver's seat.  Due to the extremely tight conditions of the Recaro seat and the homemade/E28 brackets, the seat was pretty much stuck and wouldn't slide forward or back.  This prevented me from removing the front two seat bolts, which forced me to disassembled the seat from the bracket before I could remove anything from the car.  This motivated me to make the seat and bracket fit better in the car, which led to the following work.

The seat belt receptacle/bracket was making contact with the trans tunnel, so I smashed it around until there was some clearance:

This is part of the seat belt assembly on the B pillar, which was right up against the seat bracket so I trimmed off those two little nubs sticking out from the bottom:

I also had to do many rounds of trimming with the Dremel to get the B pillar cover to fit with the seat installed.  Oh, and I trimmed out a section of carpet to allow more room for the seat bracket:

The seat brackets had excess material that was getting in the way, so that got trimmed off as well:

You can see the evidence of past fights between the seat bracket and B pillar cover, but now things at least fit.  They might not be pretty, but they work!  I can now actually move the seat forwards and back, and up and down.  Before, with all the clearance issues, it was stuck in one location, so this is a huge improvement!


With everything out of the car, it was a perfect time to refresh the shifter and figure out WTF was going on with the rear shifter bushing:

Well, it was kind of dead, so I bought a new one from Garagistic:

Yeah, the old one was doing pretty much nothing:

Everything got a thorough cleaning:

New front bushings from Garagistic:

All new OEM parts....


Turns out I have the first gen UUC short shifter from like 1999, and their current DSSR doesn't fit the old model (they're on V3 now), so I was left wondering what I could do about getting a DSSR in there.  Turns out there's a guy named Ben (badwella) on R3VLimited who makes custom (and normal) DSSRs, so I gave him the measurements for my old shifter and he sent me a custom DSSR for something like $45 shipped!

It came powder coated with all the hardware, but I did have to do some trimming to get it to fit over the shifter.  I'm pretty sure this was due to the custom nature of my setup, it doesn't sound like the normal ones have any problems.  It sure looks nice now!

Replacing that busted rear shifter bushing made a big difference in shifting!  Shifting does take some effort, but once the trans fluid is warmed up a bit, shifts are so tight and rewarding!  All play is gone from the shifter, and it's just wonderful!  However, while before I had some trouble getting the car into 5th gear (I've got shifter lean due to worn detents), I now have no trouble going into 5th, and LOTS of trouble getting the car into reverse.  I really have to struggle with that, and when it's cold in the morning I pretty much have to use both hands to get it to go into reverse.  Sometimes if I don't jam it in there real good it pops out of reverse, which is quite unpleasant when it happens.  Oh well, I'll trade nice shifts to 5th for poor shifts to reverse!

95maxrider Reader
2/2/18 3:41 p.m.

Alright, we're getting close to being caught up, don't get too excited now!

There was a generous helping of old oil all over the front of the motor, so even though the valve cover gasket had been replaced with the head gasket 35k ago, I wanted to do it and just be done.  I like things clean, can you tell?

When I pulled off the VC I noticed that it was missing the intake cam cover that I saw on my old motor, so I installed my old one on the new motor:

My old VC had a crack in it which I successfully repaired with some QuikSteel, but the new one was crack-free, so I cleaned it up with some Purple Power:

Much better....

A little black RTV later and I was back in business!

irish44j UltimaDork
2/2/18 5:13 p.m.

I can't wait until you get this car all muddy at the first rallycross. Way too clean ;)

jim5 New Reader
2/4/18 11:03 p.m.

Love checking in with the progress of your build.  When you got your Jvab coils I had ordered mine from him.  After 1.5 years of him telling me I was next I was next I never got my set.  Tried calling him contacting him stopped picking up my calls or answering my emails, big bummer.  Trying to find another strut setup to get out to get the car dirty finally.  Do you have any other ideas for struts and springs?  Would an oem bilstein work with a stiffer spring maybe.


Cant wait for the car to get back out there!

95maxrider Reader
2/5/18 8:35 a.m.
jim5 said:

Love checking in with the progress of your build.  When you got your Jvab coils I had ordered mine from him.  After 1.5 years of him telling me I was next I was next I never got my set.  Tried calling him contacting him stopped picking up my calls or answering my emails, big bummer.  Trying to find another strut setup to get out to get the car dirty finally.  Do you have any other ideas for struts and springs?  Would an oem bilstein work with a stiffer spring maybe.

Cant wait for the car to get back out there!

If you can find stock style springs that are stiffer without being lower, then by all means skip the JVAB setup.  The dude is flaky and difficult to deal with.  I wish I could offer more than that, but I stopped looking for solutions after I installed his setup.

Josh: The car has been to two events since the motor swap, it's already dirty!

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